Engine dies while running down the road
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Since when isn't a 12 volt car battery a 12 volt car battery?
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I bet there is a wire by the "firewall" or in the engine bay that is shorting out. Something in the harness is likely grounding out. This wouldn't be the first time this has happened and wont be the last...
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Glad you're up and running Jim!
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Sweet.... Glad to hear you are back on the road.
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Jim if you need me to sing while you drive around Indy I would do that for you if your music fails again!
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It’s 3:00 AM and been re-doing the wiring on Jim’s Sling. All accessories running direct to battery... nothing on harness! Bad brake switch is causing the ABS light to stay on but Owen says new switch should stop that. So far, so good!
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@Painter - been following this thread and your comment helps it make more sense...if a bunch of accessories get wired to the stock power harness I can see where it could overload the stock wire.
I have three additional / dedicated power lines going to the Optima battery directly - one for the aux fuse block (handles all the LED lights) one for the air horn, and the line to the amp under the driver's seat.
The key item here is power hungry accessories need their own dedicated power line(s) to the battery.
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Throwing this out there.....you may have already considered it....what about a dual battery set-up similar to rabtech's set-up?
Main battery to handle the stock vehicle needs, and the second battery to handle all the accessories?
Perhaps one battery just can't handle some of the sudden full amp draws that can happen periodically when everything gangs up and wants to draw max amps at once???Just thinking out loud
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Throwing this out there.....you may have already considered it....what about a dual battery set-up similar to rabtech's set-up?
Main battery to handle the stock vehicle needs, and the second battery to handle all the accessories?
Perhaps one battery just can't handle some of the sudden full amp draws that can happen periodically when everything gangs up and wants to draw max amps at once???Just thinking out loud
That is a good idea if you have high amperage draws. Jim's sling doesn't really have anything pulling heavy loads on the harness. He has a couple of halos, a horn, with a stock stereo system. The are all connected to a Optima battery which can handle the load.
If that amount of accessories caused the problem then there would be a lot more melted harness.
The one thing we could not verify because the way the fuse melted was the condition of the J box before it happened. One other possibility could have been if the fuse connection was loose in the J box. If the terminals were loose and the fuse blades were not making a good contact that could have caused it to overheat and melt down like it did. Checking my 3 main fuses I found two tight like the relays up front and one a little looser.
I am going to try and tighten up the connection next time I am in the battery compartment.
I am just thankful Jim will be able to be ready to roll for ES. -
That is a good idea if you have high amperage draws. Jim's sling doesn't really have anything pulling heavy loads on the harness. He has a couple of halos, a horn, with a stock stereo system. The are all connected to a Optima battery which can handle the load.If that amount of accessories caused the problem then there would be a lot more melted harness.
The one thing we could not verify because the way the fuse melted was the condition of the J box before it happened. One other possibility could have been if the fuse connection was loose in the J box. If the terminals were loose and the fuse blades were not making a good contact that could have caused it to overheat and melt down like it did. Checking my 3 main fuses I found two tight like the relays up front and one a little looser.
I am going to try and tighten up the connection next time I am in the battery compartment.
I am just thankful Jim will be able to be ready to roll for ES.Thanks for the great description @Slingrazor!!
I've been following the trials & tribulations you both have been enduring, and I'm learning more and more with each post. You folks have FAR more knowledge about these things and I'm hoping you get to the bottom of it sooner than later!!! It's been frustrating you guys for way too long already DAMMIT!!! -
My Jcase melted and I have no accessories except the flosser horn which runs directly to the battery with its own fuse. Dealer could not understand why the 50amp fuse did not blow before the Jcase melted?
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Unfortunately my 2015 SL was out of warranty and it spent 51 days in the shop! 51 days with this problem. I won't get into that
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The underlying issue is the main chassis harness. With nothing attached, including any accessory fuses in the stock fuse block the wire at the fuse was at 125 degrees. This tells me (and the dealer) that something I the harness is causing resistance. And resistance is what I understand is causing this problem.
It causes a slow buildup of heat that doesn't Es not blow the fuse. Add g some accessories then adds the additional push it needs to over heat.Since this is a problem in the chevy vehicles as well it is got to be a problem that will surface at some point.
I want to be clear that my dealer Owen Motorsports in Charleston, IL and specifically the tech Geramee did a fantastic job of 1 trying to get Polaris to step up and 2 fixing the problem when Polaris did not.
Lastly I want to say thanks to my friend @Painter who continues to show what this forum is all about. He hates the attention, but I don't know what I would do without him!!
Again thank you Jim!!! You are a blessing to me and so many others.
