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    Did this setup right before going to MV and never did a proper write up.

    I wanted more gauges, water temp and oil pressure, but didn't want to clutter the dash with pods, so decided to try and mount them above my eye level on the front/top roll bar of my TD soft top. Along with the 3 gauge setup (AEM triple with voltage), I also wanted a good place to put my TPMS display and the radar detector.


    I didn't get any pics of the "shelf" I created for this, was in kinda of a hurry doing last minute things for MV. I used Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Pipe Clamp to go around the bar's at the corners and a aluminum flat angle for the shelf. I wanted the angle to provide structural strength so it wouldn't bend too much. Putting the clamps at the corner kept me from having to cut the soft top any. One draw back to the shelf, I can't take my top off very easily if I ever want to. However, I've only removed it once, just for testing air flow and didn't keep it off for more than an hour.

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    I'm not much for building my own stuff, just don't have the knack or probably the proper tools, so it really seems that I just hack stuff together. I really like bolt-on mods, just more my style.

    However, there are times when you just can't buy what is in your vision and I'm struggling to make something good and that looks nice.

    Here is a little taste of something I've been working on, a lower grill to protect my camera below the front splitter.


    This is just a prototype, I plan to get it made a bit more professionally.

    I also recently changed head-units in my ride, going away from the standard double-din with 7" screen. The angle of the SS dash just isn't good with that huge ball of fire in the sky, at most angles. Alpine's iLX-F259 is a new 9" setup is really nice, you can tilt it to 45, 20, 0 and -20 degrees.

    I've modified Mytoy's 2018+ mount to fit this along with a small storage cubby below it. This head-unit is a single-din, and didn't want a hole in the setup to show

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    The very first mod I ordered for my SS was a Madstat/Twist 13" adjustable windshield My base 2019 didn't have one at all, and riding in January without a shield wasn't an option, not even here in Texas.

    I like the windshield, but after I've used it for 3k + miles, I've figured out the drawbacks to it and wasn't a fan of how straight up and down it stood. Even adjusting it all the way down, the better half (boss) felt we had too much air coming in.

    After seeing the Nascar windshield, I felt it was worth a try. Also, since I had the base model SS, I didn't get a stock windshield center brace, so added a DDM Windshield Mount



    I love how this follows the lines of my top's roll bars.

    Here is a comparison showing the Madstat and how straight up and down it is compared to this one


    Added a Assault Industries 2in H-Style 5 Point Racing Harness and some good old fashioned 4" grip tape from amazon to help the floor boards. I busted it pretty good a few weeks ago due to the dust

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    I recently installed a Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition Kit and love it. Short story, it has a bypass code and if you don't know about it, you need to change it.

    Long story : In discussions about the old key and the cover for it, someone mentioned that you didn't need to keep the old key or use their optional harness to keep the key as well, since the Ignition kit has an Emergency Bypass Code to energize the unit and start the SS without having the fob.

    I was told that it was on page 16 of my manual. Looking at my manual, and the one they have for download, I don't have a page 16, goes up to 9...

    Looking at all of their manuals for download, none go up to 16.

    So, I asked my fellow forum members to send me a copy and SlingLow sent me his, showing his default code along with how to use it and how to change it.


    This turned out to be my default code as well, I was able to energize the car for starting, as well as change my code.

    So, check your manual, change your code. I

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    I've had a form of my nickname on my license plate from the beginning, but most people just don't look there to see who's SS it is. I missed people at Kerrville, so figured I'd put my name more prominent on the SS. Hopefully at MV and the Homecoming, I'll be able to find people easier or at least have them wave me down.

    Got some goodies in today from mytoy





    Mytoy is awesome, be sure to check out his store.

    He also sent me a couple of gifts that came with my order, I was overjoyed when I saw them!

    Cam adjuster cover


    Rear double nut cover


    Thanks buddy, means a lot!

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    As every owner knows, the stock headlights on the SS are horrible. Many choose to add the Canadian kit to add two more bulbs and other choose to replace the bulbs with LED, or both.

    I went with the latter, I drive a lot of back woods at night returning from trips back home and we have problems with deer, cattle and pigs being on the roads, plus other critters like raccoons, possum and armadillo.

    The 2017 and higher aren't as easy to add the Canadian kit, since you need new shrouds. I went with the TricLED kit from Slingmods since it seemed to have better reviews. Install is easy, but I'm not a fan of the mount for the new light, only 1 bolt, no adjustment if you need to and it seems to shake a lot, since it only has 1 bolt. there is at least one more bolt mount on the SS frame on my 2019, they could have engineered the bracket to use it. Just my opinion, I'm sure there was a reason.

    For the bulbs, I replaced with LiteYourSlingz LEDs that have a lifetime warranty. They are

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    Adding another touch of green from


    Easiest mod from I've put on yet...


    Lastly, I put on the TricLED Mechanical Brake Light Switch from Slingmods, didn't get a pic, but not much to see. I was having problems with it taking quite a bit of brake pedal to engage the brake lights and kick off the cruise. I could have adjusted the magnet sensor, but decided to fix it right.

    Instructions were really good, explaining how to install it and after I got it adjusted right, it really only took about 10 minutes to install. You get to do it from the engine side, don't have to climb in upside down to see the brake pedal, which was really nice. You will need a helper to push on the brakes to understand how it works.

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    For me, the brakes on the base Slingshot are pretty weak. It just seems you have to push pretty hard to stop this light vehicle, a lot more than most smaller cars. It's almost as bad as my F350 dually.

    In an effort to resolve this, I was advised to get the DDM Brake Master Cylinder Support which helped, but not enough.


    I'd love to replace the calipers all the way around, but there are only two kits that I'm aware of, sells one, and DDM has another, big brake kits, but they are expensive and require bigger wheels, 18" or bigger. I like my 17" wheels all the way around, so that's not an option.

    For now, I'm trying better pads and upgraded rotors. The DDM upgrade kit looks good, but isn't in the budget right now, so went on the hunt for something else. has a nice EBC based kit, which led me down my path.

    So went searching and found this at EBC's site :…ngshot-sl/2015-2016/56573

    Their retail locator lead me to

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    A few quick mods

    I needed to fix my shift adapter, since Joey at Kerrville mentioned that I didn't have it installed correctly. I knew it wasn't, and told him there was a story behind my odd setup. I also installed a new shift boot with green stitching, to match my other green accents.


    Back when I bought shift knob adapter, I went cheap and got one off of amazon, problem was, it didn't come with a set screw to attach to the short shifter, and I wound up using the OEM adapter (and having to cut off about 1/2 inch of the oem) between the short shifter and my adapter, which made my shifter almost as tall as OEM. It worked, but was annoying.

    Finally took the time to retap my shift adapter so the set screw would fit it and took out the OEM adapter. Aluminum is such a pain to rethread, it's so easy to mess up if you don't have the proper tools, so took some time but I got it in there.

    Next up, a simple mod to make driving a bit easier... Mirror Extension And Adjustment Bracket

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    I was asked to get some pics for a project and to properly get a pic of the main fuse attached to the battery mount, I needed to pull the battery out. Just a few days ago I put in remote jump posts and had problems getting things lined up to reconnect the battery terminals, and yes, it was a pain this time around. I stopped and considered everything I would have on the battery long term and decided to try rewiring how I had it. I also got in a remote battery minder port from Slingmods that I wanted to connect up.

    I decided to connect the battery minder port to the remote jump terminals, it just made more sense doing it this way and less wires to deal with on/near the battery and everything is out of the way.


    The positive side of the remote jump terminals went to the fuse block and I ran the negative under the battery box (over the frame though and to the frame connection for the battery.


    Final picture from the inside


    Hit me with any questions you have.

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