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    I was asked to get some pics for a project and to properly get a pic of the main fuse attached to the battery mount, I needed to pull the battery out. Just a few days ago I put in remote jump posts and had problems getting things lined up to reconnect the battery terminals, and yes, it was a pain this time around. I stopped and considered everything I would have on the battery long term and decided to try rewiring how I had it. I also got in a remote battery minder port from Slingmods that I wanted to connect up.

    I decided to connect the battery minder port to the remote jump terminals, it just made more sense doing it this way and less wires to deal with on/near the battery and everything is out of the way.


    The positive side of the remote jump terminals went to the fuse block and I ran the negative under the battery box (over the frame though and to the frame connection for the battery.


    Final picture from the inside


    Hit me with any questions you have.

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    I've actually had more people interested in my pieced together remote battery terminal jump ports than expected, and asking about the parts list, so here it is and will try to form this so the links can be permanent. Ebay links will eventually stop working, so grabbing pics for long term archiving.

    This is my own design from pieced together parts found online at ebay.

    Ebay Battery power junction post


    Ebay 4 AWG copper battery cable


    Ebay Battery Cable Insulator Boot - may be optional, I wanted it for peace of mind


    It's possible I could have gotten them elsewhere a bit cheaper, but then I'd have to drive around, etc. Time == Money for me

    Hardest part of this install is attaching the leads to the battery. The 2019 battery on mine has a bolt/nut combo and once you pull the bolt out, the nut falls down in it's enclosure and you have to raise it up in order to get the bolt to connect again, kinda hard when you are trying to hold multiple cables in place and put the bolt in.


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    With my white and black SS, I've always felt it needed some color highlights, but was never sure where to put them. I'm a technical guy, not color coordinated. But with some help from my better half, she suggested some green, since I have a green helmet, Kawasaki green, since I have a Kawa bike. I'll be adding some color to it over the next few weeks with parts on order, but here are a couple of first steps.

    The new wheels required new lugnuts and they only come in chrome, which I didn't feel worked well, so installed lug nut covers.


    Swapped out the gear shift handle for something green, doesn't quite match my helmet, but I don't care :)


    Next up is the rear wind restrictor, finally got a night picture of it, and yeah, I know it's not green, they didn't offer it in that color...


    Rear view pic of it:


    Installed remote jumper ports in case I need to boost it again (faulty wiring issue already caused me to need this once). That other wire is my rear camera feed, not

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    This was really my first aesthetic mod (ok, the shift knob was probably the first), but this was the first major one. I never cared for the look of the stock rims on SS, not even the fancier SLR rims, and the tires were too narrow for my liking. Traction of course, but also the looks of wider tires have always appealed to me.

    This is what I went for on my look :


    The tires are Nitto NT555 G2 from Discount Tire, they had the best pricing and with free rotations and flat fixes. I went with 315/35 R17 all the way around, so I can rotate them and I just prefer the look. I went with 17's because I have some cushion and they will flex. Plus, the tires were cheaper than going with a similar sized 18, however, the wheels were a bit more expensive. The wheels are Race Star 17x10.5" Drag Star in metallic gray. Picked them up off of ebay for about $15 off per wheel vs any other place online. Discount didn't have that brand on their website, but turns out, they could have ordered them

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    Back when I ordered my Welter Dual Exhaust 2.5", I had done my research and knew a lot of people with a tall windshield and top reported issues with fumes in the cockpit. This is due to the top/wind shield causing a vacuum in the cockpit and sucking in air from the rear. Since the Welt Duals go out at the tail lights, this can cause fumes, even at high way speeds.

    I had also read that some people didn't have the issue, if they were using an adjustable windshield, that allowed air in underneath, breaking up the vacuum and I gambled (and lost). If you have been reading my other blog entries, I have the Twist Dynamics Soft Top and the TD Adjustable Windshield.

    After I put the new exhaust in, I made several short trips and had fumes as well as the burnoff you get with a new exhaust. Hoping a lot of it was burnoff, I ventured off on a long trip one Saturday, putting almost 350 miles on it, but to no avail. I did experiment several times, the TD Windshield is adjustable up and down,

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    Finally got my rear camera wired up and put a new license plate on it. It's a Boyo HD. Maybe it's just my head unit, but it doesn't seem to be any better quality than the $40 front camera. Oh well, I like how it's mounted and it should do really well at night.


    I know she's dirty, thats next on the agenda.

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    Can't really get any pics of this, or it wouldn't make much sense, so will describe and answer questions for anyone.

    One of the biggest things that they missed in the electrical department was the lack of spare fuse capacity and while some vendors have some very nice stuff for plug and play, they seem a bit overpriced, so I built my own setup.

    First up is the fuse block from, I'm installing this in the glove box, mounted upside down against the top of the box, should be out of the way and still be accessible when I need it. The biggest drawback to this was the lack of a switched option and it's not water proof, so that's why it's in the glove box. For the switched option, I didn't need any always on connections, so I wired in a relay from ebay to the hot side. Of course, since I'm being frugal with this, I get relays that are wired incorrectly on the plug and their diagram is wrong, but once I figured that out, it's working as expected.

    The fuse block also doesn't

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    Good weather and a half free afternoon allowed me to get my exhaust on. Thanks to Jeff Welter for taking my call early in the evening to answer a question!

    Ceramic powder coated 1320 header from kev at He deserves a shout out and a plug for helping me save a bit of cash on ordering the exhaust system with his 5% points, a bit over $100 USD he saved me.

    The ceramic powder coating was done locally by and I highly recommend him. Ace is friendly and does an outstanding job.

    Now that I have it installed, I kinda wish I had coated the cat delete box, but hindsight being what it is. The exhaust is a Welter 2.5" Dual also bought from Kev. I went with the 2.5" because I plan to go boosted some day, just not right now.


    The Y pipe at the rear is coated as well and came out really good I think. It was late so the pics aren't that good without sunlight and using a cell phone, but I think you get the idea.



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    This came up in a thread about Texas speciality plates, so figured I'd put all of my info here to help out others.

    There are two sites to get plates from for Texas. It's confusing on how they lay them out, but most of the newer plates can only be ordered through the site, which are more expensive.

    This is how I find the plate I'm looking for.

    Go to…/specialty-license-plates which is linked off of and it will show all of the plates, on the right hand side is the various categories, but if you click on something like Colleges and Universities, it will show plates from both TX and

    I've found if I filter by type and leave out the my plates list, I can find the cheaper ones:


    Check the Charity and/or Qualifying, leave the My Plates unchecked

    Here is the cheaper plate from Tx and not from my plates:


    and here is an example of one from myplates:


    This all works great for cars, but you notice there are no

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    I'm still working on the radio install, waiting on parts, but I've been busy.

    Over the last couple of weekends, I've been building and rebuilding the roof rack setup, to go on top of my Twist Dynamics canvas top.

    I stole this idea from SS Roof Rack, so many thanks to VERN and mikeboztx for paving the way.

    I wanted something light, easy to take on and off and affordable. We probably will only use this a couple of times a year, so it didn't make sense to invest a lot of money into it (would rather save that for other mods).

    Reese 1391300 Explore Rooftop Cargo Basket, Easy Assembly 125 Lb. Capacity

    LAMPHUS Cruizer LED Off-Road Light Vertical Bar Clamp Mounting Kit x2

    48 in. x 1-1/4 in. x 1/16 in. Plain Steel Square Tube x2


    5/16 hex bolt 2 inches long x4

    5/16 locking washing x4

    Masterchem Industries 41140 Spray Paint, Black

    Clamps are mounted to the canvas frame and the square tube is sized and marked for cutting/drilling.


    Drilled out and

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