Posts by TravAZ

Attention Vendors. Please email any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    I have somewhere between 10-12 track events with my Slingshot. The group I ran with is called ProAutosports and they are still allowing Slingshots to participate if anyone is interested and around AZ.   It took some time to get the Slingshot approved, but they have been awesome and the events have been really fun. I have quite a few track videos posted on youtube, but got really busy to edit and post some of the more recent ones.

    Most of what is stated above is spot on. It took me a long time to figure out the right tire/wheel setup for the Slingshot to get it to really feel confident while pushing hard at the track. I also would never turn off the stability control, only the traction control would be off. Rear traction is always the issue with the Slingshot and I can confirm the removing the front fenders improves aero and vehicle feedback at high speeds. The big roll hoop mounted rear wings never really helped at the track that I noticed, and I didn't care for how much they vibrated at high speeds. I have driven/ridden in Slingshots with stock brakes and never really thought they were that bad. With the correct bleeding procedure, a brake brace, and halfway decent pads, you should be ok. Maybe I never pushed a stock setup that hard. My machine had the Alpha Big Brake Kit and was probably a bit overkill for a 1,800lb machine. No matter how hard you drove it, you couldn't get brake fade.

    Still looking for someone to buy my track (aggressive street) wheel and tire setup. Let me know if anyone is interested in a proven setup.

    Smart. I went through this exact same thing a couple of years ago and didn't think about ordering a new lense. I think I ordered a whole new light for like $60-$70 somewhere.

    Can you run them without the glass, so they look like the newer Slingshot model center lights? Might save a bunch of money and hassle for others with the same issue if they can be run that way...

    What Slingshot parts do you have? (I caught a rock on my left/center hella headlight on way home form Homecoming)..thx

    Rims and tires mainly. But here is a quick snapshot of what I am trying to find a good home for...

    My Niche setup shown in my picture...

    - 18x8 fronts with Nitto 555 tires

    - 18x10 rear with Nitto 555 tires (tires is pretty worn, but new owner can upgrade to a 305 size)

    My wide and sticky track setup...

    - 18x9.5 stock base model rear rims for fronts with Toyo R888r tires

    - 18x12 Forgestar to match fronts with a Toyo R888 tire

    Also have a new 305/35/18 Toyo R888 tires (they were discontinuing these, so I bought a spare for my track setup)

    Have 2 extra base model front 17x7 wheels with Nitto NT01s tires

    2016 SL LE 20x9 Black stock rear rim with the stock Kenda tire - basically new

    Stock 5 speed transmission with a couple of hundred miles on it

    OEM clutch kit with around 8-10K miles on it

    Not sure what I missed in here, but this isn't a Vendor thread. Feel free to speak your mind and know that comments won't get deleted, as it should be IMHO.

    Below is the OG video of Bob's initial NA tune with the data being listed in the comments of the youtube video.

    I went to bat for everyone way back in the day to secure a group buy for his tune. It is $400 for Forum Members and details can be found in the link on the first post by the OP. Bob verified that the deal will still be honored, so I thought it was a good practice to help people save some money.

    In my opinion Bob is leaps and bounds ahead of everyone else when it comes to tuning Slingshots and is still probably the only person that can tune ECMs for every year of Slingshot. He has probably spent several hundred hours tuning Slingshots since late 2014 when they launched. Getting a tune is like getting a haircut, pretty much everyone can "do it", but only a small percentage actual do a good job.

    Speaking of throwbacks, here is a picture of my old Slingshot (just sold it) when it was bone stock in late 2014. Enjoy the savings and enjoy your Slingshot!

    I have seen this before. It is just a dumb way to market and to gather people's information to reach out about buying a Slingshot.

    Read close on what it is saying....

    Discount Price For Original New 2019 Polaris Slingshot S US MSRP

    FOB Reference Price:Get Latest Price

    $2,000.00 - $3,000.00 / Units | 1 Unit/Units (Min. Order)

    It means that this dealership is willing to sell certain Slingshot $2,000 - $3,000 under MSRP. When you click the contact supplier button, you will be able to email them and I am sure a hungry salesperson will call you and try to sell you on one. Unique way to do marketing, but I don't care for it.

    I personally think the comparisons would make a lot more sense, if you were to dyno Slingshots in 4th gear (1-1) like everyone else does. This would help validate power increases in the same relationship of others that have reported findings earlier.

    I don't agree with some of the ecm/tuning statements, but this is your thread. Very curious to see how your NA tunes perform.

    Maybe clarifying the below two questions/points will help a lot of people out in this thread. It would be a bummer to see so much wasted effort on education if these certain details aren't addressed...

    Why should you dyno a vehicle in the 1-1 gear, and what happens to dyno power readings when you vary from this?

    What is the difference between Open Loop and Closed Loop tuning and how does the vehicles O2 sensor work to build fuel tables, timing, etc., etc.?

    I wanted to make sure people were able to see the for sale post for my Slingshot, as I know the Marketplace items sometimes get over looked. I am prepping the new car for the Optimum Ultimate Street Car Challenge and would like to see the SS go to a good home. I am posting it up one more time in the forums, before it gets posted on ebay.

    See the marketplace listing below...

    Offer: TravAZ Turbo Custom Slingshot For Sale Item done

    One last posting on the forums before listing my Slingshot for sale on ebay and bringatralier. It would be nice if it went to someone in the community that knows the history of the machine and the time/money that was invested into it. Would love to

    My new project/adventure is shown below. Very excited to compete with the FD.


    Codes 3 and 4 for 106 are usually just junk codes. They usually happen when riding at elevation above 5-6k feet.

    If AFRs are good, I wouldn't worry much about either code.

    Remember with 5 repetitive starts and stops of the machine with the ECM not seeing the "issue", it will clear the check engine light from the dash. This trick helps in diagnosing these odd issues.

    It's pretty straight forward. Just make sure you cut all the zip ties holding the wiring to it and don't forget the bolt holding the dipstick to the manifold.

    Once everything is off, tip the top towards you and gently pull it out. If it is being a pain, you likely forgot to cut a zip tie that secures wiring.

    Overall, it's an easy job.

    Correct. The block doesn't use any NPT threads. The plugs and stock sensor are 12mm × 1.75 threads. You will need to use the autometer adapter. This is common on a lot of applications where you need to convert to NPT.

    If I remember correctly, the oil pressure numbers from the head location are 10-15 psi lower because of the restriction.

    Intake manifolds come off pretty easy. It's usually a 15-30 minute job.

    As mentioned above, you have plenty of room to access what you need with the intake manifold off.

    Your oil pressure sending unit is likely 1/8 NPT, so you would use the below part to convert the odd metric block threads to the sending unit.

    • AutoMeter Metric Adapters 2278

    You can T the 1/8 NPT size easily, but I haven't found a way to actually T the 12mm x 1.75 fitting at the block. I doubt something exists in this odd size for a T.

    You could also use the front oil galley plug on the exhaust side and run an oil feed line with adapter to your sending unit. This would make the sending unit remote and would give you more room. Either way, you are likely going to need the part 2278, unless your oil pressure sending unit is 12mm X 1.75 threads.

    If you going to go through all this work and want correct oil pressure readings, you should follow what I advised above. If you are only worrying about loosing oil pressure dramatically, because something went wrong, just skip everything and depend on the dash light that uses the stock sensor.

    Here are my pics from when I was running my built motor. This was setup to run the turbo oil feed line from the stock oil pressure sensor location and move it to the head. Worked really good and was easy to do.

    I personally couldn't find an easy way to T the stock location to run both. Maybe someone else like @Kyle D can link you to a T that works.

    Here is what I found easiest...

    Move the stock oil pressure (idiot light) sensor to the back of the head and put your new oil pressure sending unit in that location. This will satisfy your idiot light and give you the correct oil pressure reading on your new gauge without having the restriction of the head.

    The only thing required in doing it this way, is pulling out some of the wiring in the harness so it can be lengthened to reach the back of the head. You are just pulling it out. There isn't any cutting or splicing required.

    WHOA, boy am I having a major brain fart here maybe, I thought that as the belt heated up it got tighter?? :S

    Not a brain fart on your end, it was on my end. The cold tension would be looser than the warm tension. Sorry for the confusion, I will edit the post that was backwards.

    The belt will stretch overtime though slightly.

    What you are likely noticing is 1 or 2 things....

    1. As the belt heats up during aggressive driving, the belt stretches and tension is reduced. This makes the belt quieter, on machines where the belt tension is on the tight range of the spectrum.

    2. You knocked off a bunch of debris/dirt that was making the belt louder than normal.

    Both are easy to validate...