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Oh my there goes that sound, shift into gear and spun the back wheel, listen at the 17-18 second mark you hear that sound, sends shivers down my back
Actually though, that sounds like possibly a spring in the clutch disc has popped out or something is wrong with the pressure plate. Either way, I am guessing that engine is coming out to take a look and see what is going on.
Actually though, that sounds like possibly a spring in the clutch disc has popped out or something is wrong with the pressure plate. Either way, I am guessing that engine is coming out to take a look and see what is going on.
Can you share your knowledge on the best way to get this engine out in layman terms , never took one out , on 2 wheelers yes but this is a different creature......
Ok so realizing the shop manual is on my lap top, i found out that the radiator doesnt have to come out, i can remove the prop shaft and then the transmission comes out with the engine, once all is prepped for removal....... Now once the engine and trans comes out, im guessing a engine stand wont do me any good ......and disconnecting the trans from the engine, is that a hard process to get to the clutch........
I will do my best to type you up something tomorrow on how to do the swap. We do not remove the transmission though when doing this. We do remove the radiator though 
We are getting ready to install something on rabtech Slignshot this Thursday and Friday so I am really covered up right now, maybe I will have him help write a how to engine removal while he is here
I replaced the clutch in my first SS and a friends, both with help. I replaced the clutch on my 17 and Doc’s 18/19 about a month ago with help from Boomer and Doc&Ruby. Doc’s worked great but mine would not fully release.
We both put in new slave cylinders, flywheels, and high performance clutches. I bled it with a Mighty Vac for over an hour. Still wouldn’t release. I put in a new master cylinder and bled it again for an hour and left vacuum on it overnight. Still wouldn’t fully release. Got a borescope and verified the slave cylinder was working. Finally had to pull the engine again. Found out the clutch disc has an unnoticeable cup in it and it won’t fully release. New clutch disc coming in today and I will put it back together again.
Have to say though, I drove about 30-40 miles total with the new clutch (started in gear and would barely move while starting) and the clutch feels fantastic!!! Once I get the new disc in I think I will be buying a lot of new rear tires!
Sorry if you can hear me laughing. Love ya man!
Engine Removal - Short Guide/ no pictures
1 - Jack up Slingshot and rest front of Slingshot on Jackstands placed just under the rear mounting point of the lower control arms
2 - Remove hood and disconnect battery
3 - Remove both wheels (this allows you to get into the engine bay easier when working on it, not absolutely needed, but it helps make things easier)
4 - Unplug/remove any LED lights going to the front bumper
5 - Remove lower "mustache" bumper (mark location on the side mounts to the main chassis so it is easier to line up when putting back on)
6 - Unplug all the electrical going to the drivers side headlights and lay the wiring harness over drivers side suspension
7 - Unplug all the electrical in the center headlight area of the Slingshot, cut the wire ties and fish the harness back so you can lay it over the drivers side suspension with the other wiring harness
8 - Unplug all the electrical going to the passenger side headlights. Cut zip ties and fish the wiring harness back across the aluminum bar in front of the engine and lay the harness back over the drivers side suspension.
9 - Make a mess. Using a pair of pliers or spring clamp tool, remove the clamp around the lower radiator hose on the passenger side of the radiator, pull the hose off of the aluminum hard tube going back and coolant will start coming out. It will make a mess, make sure to have something under the Slingshot to catch as much as you can. Remove the cap on the coolant tank and more coolant will come out.
10 - Remove the upper radiator hose at the engine, unplug the cooling fan and remove the radiator from the Slingshot.
11 - Use a 5/16" wrench or 11mm wrench to remove the pull cable for the hood release on each side. If you loosen the nut on the cable going to the back on each side, you can get the cable out of the release for the front of the hood and get the pull cable out of the way. Hopefully this makes more sense once you get there.
12 - Use a 16mm socket and remove the 2 lower bolts holding the front subframe that the lights are hooked to, then you will find 2 more 16mm bolts just behind the hood hinges, lastly there are 2 vertical 16mm bolts that need a 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the bottom. Those 2 bolts go through the aluminum bar infront of the engine. Make sure all the wiring is removed from the aluminum bar going across the front of the engine and the front subframe, if so, remove all those bolts and the front subframe will slide forward slightly and off the Slingshot.
13 - Remove the aluminum bar in front of the engine, it just slides forward and out.
14 - Clean up the coolant mess on the ground, there will be one
15 - I typically start on the exhaust side of the engine, Unplug the coil packs, VVT actuators, cam position sensor, EVAP solenoid (back of the cylinder head) and O2 sensor. It is all one wiring harness, fish that harness out and lay it over the ECM on the drivers side
16 - Not sure what exhaust you have, but basically you can leave on the headers and just disconnect the exhaust from there most of the time. Make sure the oxygen sensor is out of the header also (it will hit the frame rail when jacking up the engine if not)
17 - I also remove the valve cover at this point, since most of the time everyone has some nice powdercoated one and I don't want to mess it up. Also, I remove the coolant tank at this point and having the valve cover removed makes it much easier.
18 - Remove coolant tank
19 - Now go over to the drivers side of the engine. Unplug the throttle body, fuel injectors, map sensor, IAT sensor and alternator. Those will all be on one wiring harness, fish that harness back towards the firewall and set it towards the ECM.
20 - There is a ground wire on the back of the cylinder head that needs a T25 ( I think it is that, might be a T27) to remove.
21 - Remove the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail, then pull up on the fuel rail and remove from the engine, set aside on top of the ECM area. If the fuel injectors come out of the rail, fuel will come out, so be careful and obviously no smoking
22 - There is a small 10mm head bolt that holds the oil dipstick to the intake manifold. Hopefully you have a ratcheting 10mm wrench to remove that bolt, if not go invest in some.
23 - With the small bolt removed, there are 10mm head bolts, I believe it is 5 holding the black plastic intake manifold to the cylinder head. There are also 2 nuts that you need to remove on studs sticking out. Once those are all removed, I can pull the manifold back and slide it off the studs and pop the manifold up most of the time. Sometimes you need to use a female star bit to remove the studs. If you have the socket to do this, just remove the studs, it makes it a lot easier.
24 - As you start to remove the intake manifold, you will notice that there are a couple things zip tied to it under the manifold, cut the zip ties holding the wires to the manifold and it should come out.
25 - With the manifold out, you will see the Alternator, make sure the battery is disconnected again, otherwise this next step is really fun. There is a 13mm nut on the alternator, remove that nut and the wire that is under it.
26 - Remove the 13mm nut on the starter and the wire that is under it, set that wire to the side along with the big wire that was under it. That is the main wire going back to the battery for the starter, just FYI.
27 - Unplug the oil pressure sensor, knock sensor and crank position sensor that are all along the drivers side of the engine, fish that wiring harness out and set to the side over the ECM area of the engine bay. ( I will sometimes use a zip tie or 2 to hold all this stuff out of the way)
28 - Wiggle and pull on the dipstick, it will pop out of the oil pan and remove it from the engine bay.
29 - Use a 15mm socket and remove the nut on top of the engine mount on both sides of the engine. There is also a 15mm nut on the bottom of both engine mounts under the Slingshot.
30 - There are 9 (I think this number is correct) - 18mm head bolts holding the engine to the transmission. There is one on the passenger side of the engine that is kinda hard to see and even I miss it sometimes, remove all of those. If you have a ratcheting 18mm wrench, you get your use from that now. Leave 2 bolts, on right by the starter and one on the passenger side at this point. Go ahead and break them free, but do not remove yet.
31 - With all the bolts removed, hook your cherry picker up to the engine. I typically use the 8mm hole on the front drivers side of the engine (there are 2 holes there), also you will find 2 8mm threaded holes just above the header on the passenger side of the engine. Lastly there is a 8mm threaded hole in the back drivers side of the cylinder head.
32 - With those bolts removed and the cherry picker attached to the engine, make sure the engine is supported evenly. Then use a jack and place it under the bellhousing of the transmission, start jacking up at the bellhousing of the transmission and make sure to keep the engine supported with the cherry picker.
33 - You will be able to jack the engine up until it starts to clear the engine mounts, once you get it past that point, you can slide the mounts out of the engine bay. Also at this point once again, make sure the cherry picker is supporting the engine evenly.
34 - With the transmission jacked up and the cherry picker supporting the engine, remove the last 2 bolts holding the 2 together. Then you can use a small pry device to help separate them from each other. Be careful to make sure the engine is support fully, otherwise it might shift, watch your hands.
35 - Once the engine starts to slide forward, keep moving it forward until the input shaft of the transmission is free from the clutch/pressure plate. Then you will probably have to jack the engine up a little more to clear the power steering and get it out of the engine bay. At this point you should be starring at the input shaft of the transmission and the engine on the cherry picker.
36 - Do not adjust the cherry picker, if you keep the chains/adjuster at the same angle and the transmission stays at the same angle (make sure the jack does not bleed down) it will make it much easier when you go to attach these back together.
37 - Remove pressure plate bolts and see what is making that horrible sound and post pictures to Slingshotinfo 
This is all going off memory at midnight without a Slingshot in front of me, so I may have missed something, if so, please let me know and I will update this.
Re-installation is basically the reverse, but there are some tips and tricks I write out also, this should get you started though.
Hope it helps,
Dave
Sorry if you can hear me laughing. Love ya man!
We feel his pain don’t we bro !!!
Wow, Dave@DDMWorks, that was FAST!
I think I found a couple of typos -
Step 11 should probably reference a 7/16" wrench instead of 5/16" if the 11mm wrench is the alternative.
Step 35 - Last sentence should probably have "staring" instead of "starring".
Also, I have a general question about disconnecting the battery. Is it safe to just disconnect the main fuses near the battery and the Powertrain Breaker up front, if necessary? I'd assume that should sever the connections going to the front from the battery.
All-in-all, a clearly written process that should be easy to follow. Definitely not too bad for something composed from memory in the middle of the night! Color me impressed!
I think Dave's post needs to be stickied somewhere, would help a lot of us in the future. Some really great advice
This is all going off memory at midnight without a Slingshot in front of me, so I may have missed something, if so, please let me know and I will update this.
There are no swear words. Totally unrealistic!
Seriously Dave@DDMWorks that is very cool of you to put this up for us. I have it bookmarked and hopefully don't come back to it. But if I do, this is enough to give me the confidence to dive in. You DA MAN!
Once someone went through the steps and validated it all, I was going to ask Rab to copy the the post into the technical info or put up on the FAQ docs if I ever get around to finishing those.
Once someone went through the steps and validated it all, I was going to ask Rab to copy the the post into the technical info or put up on the FAQ docs if I ever get around to finishing those.
aren’t they in the service manual?
Section 3.33.....
aren’t they in the service manual?
Section 3.33.....
yes, but not everyone has the service manual and of course we want people coming here for good advice and not other sites
Ok so realizing the shop manual is on my lap top, i found out that the radiator doesnt have to come out, i can remove the prop shaft and then the transmission comes out with the engine, once all is prepped for removal....... Now once the engine and trans comes out, im guessing a engine stand wont do me any good ......and disconnecting the trans from the engine, is that a hard process to get to the clutch........
Removing the engine from the transmission bell housing requires that you remove 8-10 transmission bolts. All are on the back side, most will require an extension to get to them.
You don't *have to* pull the starter off, but it does give you more clearance when you are ready to pull the engine.
FWIW, Darrell and I both pulled our radiators. This will give you a much lower lift over, and you will be able to see when the oil pan is high enough to clear the frame much more easily.
Once the engine was up & clear, we rolled the engine hoist away. From there, it was easy enough to pull the pressure plate off. Be careful though, the bolts holding it on are oddly shaped. 8mm socket and an impact driver worked well. Don't try with a regular socket wrench - these buggers are waaaay too easy to strip!
How hard is lining up that input shaft on the way in? If it was not too much more trouble I would go ahead and pull the trans and put it in all together as one assembly. I'm just throwing stuff out there lol.
That’s what SHE asked...
I must say, this isnt your average mod install job BUT im feeling even more determined now after reading your Engine Removal Short Guide, I appreciate it, getting my $$$ together now so i can order a few other items along with the clutch kit since ill have all this apart ......Thanks again !
Order thru Dave at DDM and he will take good care of you.
Order thru Dave at DDM and he will take good care of you.
getting my list together, so that once i begin i can place my order, never had any issues with any of his products !
