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141 kWh for 2 weeks!! $35!!!
those are numbers I could only dream about. Last month, July, our house used 2,283 kWh of power and had we not installed solar in 2016 we would have been looking at a bill of close to a thousand dollars. And this is for a 1,650 sq foot home
fortunately for the same month our 59 solar panels generated 2,694 kWh of power, and with it being the last month of our billing year with Edison they ended up sending us a check for $65 - - our only regular monthly bill is usually around 5$ to 10$ for taxes and the privileged of being connected to their grid
Unfortunately, that $35 for 141 kwh was just for ONE day! We had several wholesale spot-market price surges this afternoon that probably raised our kwh average price to over $1 per kwh, so for an hour or so we may have been paying $3-5/per our for our electricity. I'll find out later tonight or tomorrow when I can see our hourly kwh numbers for today.
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I don't know if it's related to possible hurricane/wind damage, but houses here in the Houston area have much steeper slopes than the houses we had in Northern Virginia. Our roof is steep enough that the only time I ever got on the second story roof of our house was when an electrical contractor got up there to install an attic fan and froze due to concerns over the height and I went up to get him a rope I had secured on the other side of the house. His partner finished the job. I don't mind too much getting on the main floor's roof, but between the roof slope and the height of the second story, I no longer like getting that high up. If the roofer needs a foam pad to keep from sliding off the roof, then it's higher than I now feel comfortable.
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I think the ECU tracks engine on time. It may have just needed some time to supply the info to your Ride Command unit after the original unit was replaced.
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Most places, it is illegal to have an operating video playback device within the driver's view while the vehicle is moving, meaning most radios will have a line to connect to the parking brake to prevent operation of any video display while the vehicle is moving. I bought a round Lanzar marine radio that can have the video input activated via an all-too-easily-lost remote. When I contacted them, they told me that if the radio detects a camera power signal, the display will automatically switch to the camera input. This means a SPDT such as the model sold by SlingMods could be used to trigger a rear or a front camera, with no camera function when the switch is in the neutral middle position.
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I used to have one of the larger Little Giant models and it was too heavy to easily move around. I had a steel ladder that folded at 3 locations for great adjust-ability or use as a work platform, but it, too was a little on the heavy side. I now have a 12 ft aluminum ladder that is hinged in the center and can be used as a 6 ft step-ladder or a 12 ft ladder if I need to get on the roof. I also have a large fiberglass ladder, but it, too, is heavy and not easily maneuvered.
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Sort of temperature related - We've had temps in the mid-to-high 90s with humidity-adjusted temps closer to 105 for most of the past two weeks here in the Houston area. My electric bills had run around $200/month max for the last 2 years under my old electricity provider, so when I received my first bill from the new provider and it was almost $400, I decided to switch to a provider (http://www.griddy.com) who charges a flat $9.99 monthly membership and buys electricity for its members on the spot-market. Due to extreme demand, Texas set a new state-wide record for electricity consumption, briefly driving the spot market to $9/kwh a few days before I switched, driving some bills to over $300 for a 2-week period. My first day on the new plan, we used 141 kwh at a cost of $26 (plus grid costs and taxes). When I realized we had used around $35 worth of electricity once all costs and taxes were included, I was close to panicking like some others had and was seriously considering switching providers. I switched my pool and AC to run primarily during non-peak hours and, with the less drastic spot-market prices we've seen during the 5 days I've been with Griddy, My daily wholesale costs have run $26.01, $3.35, $4.22, $2.85 and $2.48, with my All-IN delivered costs for 687 kwh have averaged out to 12 cents/kwh, which is about what I would have been paying with my old provider, but I hope to save even more long-term. I 'll just need to keep an eye on what happens to the wholesale market in case we have anymore serious market fluctuations that will force me back to a fixed price plan. I do miss my older provider, who offered pricing closer to 7-8 cents per kwh, but it looks like those times are gone now. Time will tell how my wholesale market experiment goes.
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I feel safe and I don't think I look like a dork...
I used to have a co-worker with whom I seemed to be the only person in the office who could get along with him at least most the time, although there were times when I wanted to kill him him, too! He could be a bit of a prick at times. We once showed up to help him move at 6 a.m. on a Saturday to find that he still hadn't rented a truck and had less than half his stuff packed (he lived in a 3-story house)!
At our office Christmas parties, it was common to have a secret Santa gift exchange for folks who opted to participate. Once, after he had refused to participate, his name was called and he walked up to receive his gift. Everyone broke up in laughter when he opened it and found a 6 ft whole body condom. We all thought it was the PERFECT gift for him, but nobody would admit to having bought it for him. My Boss turned around and gave me a very long-lasting smile. He refused to believe I hadn't done it and it was several months later when the real perpetrator admitted to the deed. Even after his admission, some folks still thought I had done it!
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Edited for clarity - If your radio doesn't have RCA outputs for connecting to an amp or soundbar, or if your soundbar doesn't have high-level inputs to connect the speaker output from your radio/cd player, you'll need to get a high-level (speaker) to RCA converter like this unit - https://smile.amazon.com/Adjus…-Converter/dp/B00FDWI7FA/. If you have both front and rear inputs on the soundbar, just get 2 of the converters.
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Follow-up on using the ATP Cobra Head elbow - The throttle body normally has a rim along the top edge that was worn down due to me not properly installing the Hahn CAI/Turbo aluminum plenum, resulting in wear on the TB which now seems to be allowing the Cobra Head elbow to slip off the top of the TB due to the missing rim edge on the top of the TB. I originally tried using a T-bolt clamp, but I believe it actually exacerbates the sealing problem since it is a wider clamp, placing pressure along the top of the TB, even when the T-bolt clamp is as tight as possible. I'm hoping that using a regular screw-clamp that is a little narrower than the T-bolt clamp will place the clamping pressure below the top edge of the TB so that the Cobra Head elbow will remain in place under high boost.
If the narrower clamp doesn't stop the elbow coming off under high boost, I guess I'll try replacing the TB with a new unit that still has the rim along the top of the TB throat.
Polaris lists a new part number for the TB, but Googling either part number (new pn 12670836 or older pn 12632093) produces the same search results, with GM parts sources listing the TB for as low as the mid $80s compared to prices int he $120s from Polaris parts sources.
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Tapping into the alternator output is the easiest way to access power in the engine compartment. If you need to tap power at the battery search EBay or Amazon for "multi-connector battery terminal connector".
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Update on SeaFoam use interval - J just saw an ad for Gumout Fuel Line Cleaner that recommended using it every 3000 miles. I would imagine such an interval would be just as applicable to using SeaFoam, too. If you notice any possible fuel related problems between uses, maybe just add some at that time and see if things clear up. I had originally intended to useSeaFam every month, but have now shifted to every couple months and will add some extra if I notice a problem between scheduled uses.
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Texting must be really FUN on a phone that size! Check over the phone one more time as I'm sure they thoughtfully hid a stylus somewhere!
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Kyle D
, Thanks for the update.
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Budge # 2 cover fits fine with the TD Top and presumably other, similarly sized tops. Now that Polaris has that (fugly) Slingshade, you'd think they'd also release a new trailering cover designed to accommodate a top.
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I finally found an imitation/clone of the Thrifty Drugs Ice Cream scoop that was in use when I was stationed at the Defense Language Institute in Monterey, California back in the 1980s. I still see them on Amazon and Ebay at well over $100, which seems a bit much, but they're perfect for portion control and stacking scoops in a cone. Some offerings are not as refined as others. Here's some pics and alternatives from Pinterest - https://www.pinterest.com/pin/249527635579838445/.
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I initially bought the Innovate SCG-1 since Innovate offered a data logging module, but isn't data logging built-in to the AEM AFR/Boost gauge? Not seeing any data logging capability in the Koso X2 is my only concern about trying it.
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Have some lights heading my way to do a custom design approach. Been meaning to tackel this for some time but the new model made me pull the trigger. If it turns out looking good I'll post.... Otherwise this never happened.
I've wondered about trying what I would hope to be a relatively inexpensive solution of trying Hella's 90 mm individual high beam units, but I've just never gotten around to it.
I've also thought about trimming the nose-piece that blocks some of the center headlights output.
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Everything seems to run fine otherwise, so I'm not too worried about it. I'll recalibrate when I get around to it.
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This probably has NOTHING to do with your issues, but if I remember correctly when i was looking at gauges, doesn't the Inovate AFR gauge require a recalibration of the O2 sensor every 6 months or so? While it shouldn't cause it to stop functioning, maybe a simple recalibration of it could solve the problem. Heck, it's a cheap way to find out and if it works, it saves you from buying new gauges.
On a side note, I'm NOT happy with my AEM AFR gauge. The first one dies completely after I owned it for 2 years. Warranty is only one year, so the replacement one was on me. This second one has an issue and it too is now two years old. I'll be damn if I'm going to buy a new gauge every two years. This one has a different failure. Half of the left side led craps out after about 3 minutes of working fine.
Whne I get a chance, I'm going to contact AEM to see how they treat a repeat customer with a second failure. Their decision will help me to decide what company to use for future gauge choices
Thanks for the feedback. After reading your recalibration comment, I checked the SCG-1 manual and realized I'd forgotten about recalibration. I now have just over 12 months/15000 miles on the turbo & gauge, so I guess I'll need to recalibrate the sensor. Sine that process requires me to remove the sensor and disconnect the cable, I guess I'll also see if the gauge still displays the AFR when it's reinstalled. If it doesn't, that should confirm a short in the cabling.
I like the Koso X2 AFR/Boost/Temp gauge since it was originally designed for snowmobiles and is waterproof, but I don't know if it supports data logging. Amazon currently lists the X2 as unavailable, but had previously offered the lowest cost.
I also came across some stuff from Zeitronix, but I've never heard anything about them other than what I saw on https://www.maperformance.com/collections/zeitronix.
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I enjoyed some of the posts, especially about driving the Slingshot IN Uranus instead of ON Uranus!
