Lets alert BKL He might be able to help...
Unfortunately, the Fog Headlight Switch kit I installed was from Slingshotonly and had MUCH clearer instructions.
I glanced over the Instructions for the Headlight Bypass Version 2 and they do lack some clarity, like telling you to drill a 2nd hole in Step 10, but never tells you to drill the first hole and doesn't clearly specify where the hole should be drilled in the fuse box cover. This is a relatively minor problem since the holes need to correspond to the two locations where the blades from the kit will be inserted. Also keep in mind that the holes should be high enough that the kit's wiring that feeds thru the holes have enough room to bend and fit down into the original breaker/fuse connections. With the kit's wiring feeding thru the side of the fuse box cover, it should also be kept in mind that care is needed when removing the fuse box cover to ensure that the circuits are still connected properly.
As far as the kit's design, the connector that replaces the breaker and the fuse basically inserts a switch in place of the breaker and fuse and then uses the two external inline fuses so the system is still protected against overloads. The overall design raises 2 issues in my mind. Keep in mind that I have not physically held/inspected this kit, so the Bypass kit design may have addressed the two issues I have concerns about. Those concerns being that the kit replaces the 30A circuit breaker with what appears to be a simple 30A fuse (green) and also appears to replace the Yellow 20A fuse with a 30A fuse (green). I would prefer the kit replaced both the breaker and the fuse with the same value as the breaker or fuse being replaced. The purpose of the breaker is to allow the breaker to reset itself, if triggered, and by resetting, maintain headlight operation (although the headlights may cycle on/off as the breaker continually triggers and resets). Replacing the breaker with a fuse means that if the fuse blows, the lights are inoperable. If I were to use this kit, I would want to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker of the same type as the fuse used in the kit (based on the pictures in the instructions, I believe the kit uses ATO fuses (but they might be Maxi fuses), so I'd use an ATO breaker. Since the other circuit originally used a 20A fuse, I'd replace the other 30A fuse with a 20A fuse that fits the kit's receptacle. The instructions state that it doesn't matter which set of wires get plugged in to replace the 20A fuse and 30A breaker since the kit uses 30A fuses for each circuit. If someone chooses to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker and a 20A fuse, it is very important that the 20A fuse be placed in the fuse holder that is connected to the original 20A circuit and the 30A breaker (sized for the new fuse holder type) should connect to the corresponding circuit that originally had the 30A breaker. Identifying where to place the 30A breaker and the 20A fuse should be revealed by just pulling one of the 30A fuses and then watch which set of lights goes out. You should probably also do this before installing the kit so that you know which circuit the breaker or fuse controls so you'll know which circuit has the breaker and which circuit has the fuse.
I have tried to describe my thoughts as accurately and clearly as possible (at least to my warped way of thinking)
, but anyone attempting the changes I suggested should consult with someone knowledgeable about automotive wiring to verify that I haven't made any mistakes. I've been known to overthink things to the point where I just confuse myself!
Be safe and get a validating opinion.