Question of the day. Why are manhole covers round?
So they can't be dropped into the hole. I think that if manholes were equilaterally-shaped triangles they also wouldn't be able to fit thru the holes but any rectangular or square shape can be positioned so that it drop thru the hole.
Don't remember the YouTuber's name, but there's a guy with a stripped Mercedes (doors and body panels removed) who uses multiple cameras as he drives various roads. He has at least one video focused on different types of speed bumps at different speeds.
Just after I posted my comment, I looked up and realized the speed bump video was on the screen after the video with the multiple speed bumps!
Thinking a little more about the install, I still have concerns that if I need to remove the cover, it will affect the fuse socket connections. To avoid this situation, it might make sense to just notch the cover so the cover can be removed w/o affecting the thru-cables. If concerned about water-tightness, I'd look for some non-porpous foam that might be fit around the thru-cables that would hopefully provide a somewhat water-tight seal.
When I decided to add a switch for the headlights I used the method rabtech posted where you break the ground with a switch. Works great and no holes in fuse block cover.
I'd forgotten about that post. Good thing we collectively form a corporate memory of old posts.
I saw that one while I was looking for the light I originally bought. White light can affect your night vision longer than a red light will, but that unit will do the job if you can get it to fit the Slingshot key.
It would be a complete PITA, but the only real way to avoid drilling the cover is to remove the fuse box from the Slingshot so you can access the wiring from below and then tap into the correct wires so you can then run the wire back to the switch. Pain to figure out, but a better approach from an appearance and waterproof perspective (as long as you take care to keep all connections watertight).
An alternative would be to run the wires thru the bottom of the fuse box using holes drilled in an open relay spot, assuming there's an open slot in your fuse box). It's best to remove the fuse block so you can make sure that you are not drilling into any wires while making the holes. Then feed the connector and wire up from the bottom and make the connections to the fuse sockets just as if you had drilled the cover. I'd use some silicone to make it watertight. I'd assume this should work since the relays are shorter than the breakers in the Slingshot fuse box and there should be enough room above the relays to run the wires to the fuse sockets. This approach should work w/o needing any mods to the switch harness, but be sure to check wire lengths before starting any drilling and make sure you don't inadvertently damage any wires feeding to the fuse block.
I had alot of the little battery-powered LED lights similar to what Bigdog linked, but I bought some of these from Amazon back in 2015. Amazon no longer sells them, but I found them on EBay - https://www.ebay.com/p/15030314198. The light only stays on while you hold the button down while inserting the key into the lock. The light glues to the key and I don't believe the battery is replaceable, but I've been using the same light around 6 years now.
I have a 30 oz RTIC aluminum insulated cup that I hope to be able to use in that shade. I was at least able to buy it used from a Forum member. Hopefully I can use my 30 oz cup, but have found some smaller sizes if I need to switch, but I love the 30 oz size for how much ice it holds and how long it keeps drink cold.
Update - Due to how I mounted my NASCAR style Windshield from AllThingsSlingshot, I need to remove the windshield to get the painted covers off so I can install the radio shade with cup holders. I'll try to remember to post pics with the large TRIC cup to show how it fits.
Actually, I inevitably want to go back and clean up something like that. I always worry when writing something like that that I might make a mistake or not be clear enough that I end up causing more confusion.
In this case, since I have never seen the kit in person, I was having to go strictly off the instructions and make educated guesses as to how the entire thing works. I probably spent over 1 hr just trying to make sure I was as accurate as I felt I could be.
One thing I found interesting about the design was the fact that only 2 wires run to the switch which then controls 2 circuits and their fuses. There is a part of the harness shown in the listing pic that appears to have several wires going in & out, with cable ties to keep that section contained, and which I assume has a relay setup so that the single circuit thru the switch can properly control the 2 circuits that actually handle the two headlight circuits. If I could see the actual components and how they're wired together, I'd like to see how everything is wired and if the 2 headlight circuits are separated so that the each fuse is only responsible for one circuit, which is why I assume there is some sort of relay setup in the bundled section of the harness.
Should anyone want to try any of the mods I suggested, please make sure you run everything by someone whose electrical knowledge you trust, just to be safe and get a second opinion.
Lets alert BKL He might be able to help...
Unfortunately, the Fog Headlight Switch kit I installed was from Slingshotonly and had MUCH clearer instructions.
I glanced over the Instructions for the Headlight Bypass Version 2 and they do lack some clarity, like telling you to drill a 2nd hole in Step 10, but never tells you to drill the first hole and doesn't clearly specify where the hole should be drilled in the fuse box cover. This is a relatively minor problem since the holes need to correspond to the two locations where the blades from the kit will be inserted. Also keep in mind that the holes should be high enough that the kit's wiring that feeds thru the holes have enough room to bend and fit down into the original breaker/fuse connections. With the kit's wiring feeding thru the side of the fuse box cover, it should also be kept in mind that care is needed when removing the fuse box cover to ensure that the circuits are still connected properly.
As far as the kit's design, the connector that replaces the breaker and the fuse basically inserts a switch in place of the breaker and fuse and then uses the two external inline fuses so the system is still protected against overloads. The overall design raises 2 issues in my mind. Keep in mind that I have not physically held/inspected this kit, so the Bypass kit design may have addressed the two issues I have concerns about. Those concerns being that the kit replaces the 30A circuit breaker with what appears to be a simple 30A fuse (green) and also appears to replace the Yellow 20A fuse with a 30A fuse (green). I would prefer the kit replaced both the breaker and the fuse with the same value as the breaker or fuse being replaced. The purpose of the breaker is to allow the breaker to reset itself, if triggered, and by resetting, maintain headlight operation (although the headlights may cycle on/off as the breaker continually triggers and resets). Replacing the breaker with a fuse means that if the fuse blows, the lights are inoperable. If I were to use this kit, I would want to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker of the same type as the fuse used in the kit (based on the pictures in the instructions, I believe the kit uses ATO fuses (but they might be Maxi fuses), so I'd use an ATO breaker. Since the other circuit originally used a 20A fuse, I'd replace the other 30A fuse with a 20A fuse that fits the kit's receptacle. The instructions state that it doesn't matter which set of wires get plugged in to replace the 20A fuse and 30A breaker since the kit uses 30A fuses for each circuit. If someone chooses to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker and a 20A fuse, it is very important that the 20A fuse be placed in the fuse holder that is connected to the original 20A circuit and the 30A breaker (sized for the new fuse holder type) should connect to the corresponding circuit that originally had the 30A breaker. Identifying where to place the 30A breaker and the 20A fuse should be revealed by just pulling one of the 30A fuses and then watch which set of lights goes out. You should probably also do this before installing the kit so that you know which circuit the breaker or fuse controls so you'll know which circuit has the breaker and which circuit has the fuse.
I have tried to describe my thoughts as accurately and clearly as possible (at least to my warped way of thinking)
, but anyone attempting the changes I suggested should consult with someone knowledgeable about automotive wiring to verify that I haven't made any mistakes. I've been known to overthink things to the point where I just confuse myself!
Be safe and get a validating opinion.
Keep in mind that local LEOs may or may not pull you over if you leave that light bar on when approaching other vehicles. Looking at the pics above, the light bar , while flooding the road surface and sides with light, also throws plenty of light up to hit the trees and will have the same blinding impact on an approaching driver as the high beams. I don't have a light bar, but the 2 strips of LEDs in my MadStad bumper still manage to throw light up above the low beam cutoff even though I have the LEDs aimed down as much as I can. I rarely use them since it's a PITA to find the switch on the console every time I need to dim my lights. Of course, different laws may apply in different areas.
2015 and no modification to the button. I have considered using a sharpie to color it.
I used a Black Sharpie to color the Silver button surround. Just be careful to not get the marker on the surrounding background as it tends to show up a little too much.
This article/ad mainly references older Ford Trucks with transmission problems, but maybe these guys can help -
Several things from altdriver.com -
https://altdriver.com/country/…-into-their-engine-block/
Seems lawn tractor mudding is a new thing. This guy was trying to complete an obstacle course -
https://altdriver.com/country/…tor-obstacle-course-fail/
This lady's real bright -
https://altdriver.com/news/drunk-woman-on-freeway/
Ouch! I wonder if the home owners got any product?
Heard back from MadStad customer service and they confirmed that they can get me replacement components if there is future damage vs having to buy a whole new front bumper. Looks like MadStad design is the winner (assume components have to be cheaper than a whole assembly). DDM coil overs at Christmas depleted the mod account so gotta save up a few more $$ then can get the new bumper (and hope I don't hit any other critters between now and then). Might have to run the river road vs the mountain road until that happens since it seems I only hit critters on the mountain road.
Try Otter's First Mod - https://www.slingshotforums.co…irst-mod.4735/#post-99272. He just removed the Front Lower Wing. I ran w/o one for a short time before I modded a Rear Deck Wing to mount in place of the Front Lower Wing. Since it was not as wide as the Front Lower Wing, I found it easier to avoid animals when I suddenly encountered them during night rides.
All of our supercharger and turbo tunes that use the larger fuel injectors have been modified about a year ago to keep the reported fuel mileage correct. Bob @ Mefiburn should be able to update your tune for you with that update.
I had Bob update my ECU in 2019 or 2020, but my Miles Left until Empty and MPG numbers are still way off. I've just come to ignore the Miles Left until Empty and MPG numbers and just track things in my head.
If I remember correctly, Dave@DDMworks was working on being able to make that change in the ecu program
I'd love to see something like that!
I agree but you would think the township would identify these potential danger areas and place a warning bar as a gage well in advance of the bridge to totally avoid a disaster or a stupid driver that attempts to test the accuracy of the warning!
That bridge already has a Warning Bar! I think the authorities might want to consider if it might be too close to the bridge to really be useful!
Making sure your gas level doesn't go low enough to pump stuff from the bottom of your tank is very important once boost is added to your vehicle. It definitely pays to know how far you can typically go on a tank of gas and to refill before hitting 1/4 tank left. Using 1/4 tank as the minimum low point before refilling allows a decent cushion in case you suddenly can't find a gas station.
Personally, I wouldn't trust the miles left display if the injectors were changed. The Miles left and MPG numbers my Slingshot showed after I added a turbo were way off. I know I can get around 225 miles from a tank and always try to fill-up before I get much under 1/4 tank left.
