I don't really care how much gas I'm burning, just how many smiles I get out of it. I mainly track it out of curiosity.
Yes, calculating manually, always. I have documentation showing my last 50 fuel ups since I started documenting
Happy bday, hope you had a good day / weekend. I'm a firm believe in birthday weekends, too much fun to do for just 1 day
You guys are cute, if I'm not getting 12 mpg, I'm not driving my sling hard enough and not getting enough smiles per mile.
I average about 16 to 17 on the highway running 80. I've seen high 20's once or twice going slow behind other slings on rides.
Thank you everyone, was a great day
I love Vegas, doesn't take much to talk me into making a trip out, so keep me informed if you wanna do some dogfighting!
It's probably just lack of time behind the wheel.
Get well soon Mr. Fun!
Thanks, but as you are aware, there are many factors that change your rate, namely zip code and how many claims that a company has had in an area.
I used to be on State Farm about 3 or 4 years ago, a friend of mine is an agent, but she can't touch the prices that Safeco is offering.
Wokka, I cannot believe you didn't hear about this sooner. About a year ago Allstate who we were insured with got really stupid with their rates. Daniel in Houston told us about a net agent with SAFECO and we saved a ton. Since we both live in Texas this should help you. She is based out of Lubbock. Call this woman!!!
We saved hundreds and got good coverage in the deal.
See you soon
My home and autos have been with Safeco for a couple of years, moved off of them a while back too when prices got too high, and I'm back on them to get lower rates again. I will have to say, over the years, I've had to do a couple of claims with them and while they are cheaper, they are harder to work with than the bigger, more expensive companies.
saying that, I'll save money where I can. Dan can do safeco as well and he's getting me better coverage and cheaper than what I was using Allstate with, even after raising my coverage for the mods.
He's checking on my house/auto policies now, to see if he can save me any more money.
Thanks wokka that's exactly what I'd like to do with the addition of an always hot side on the fuse block. So, on your drawing, I would add a splitter after the fuse on the wire from the alternator to the relay to create the hot side. I am using a 3-way splitter to create a 3rd leg for an amp if I ever decide to add stereo equipment so I wanted to be sure that this won't overload that alternator wire.
LOL, I didn't show it, but I do have a tap between the fuse and the relay, the radio needed an always hot side for it's memory
wokka my question is, and maybe you have the answer, can the alternator wire be used to power a fuse box as opposed to triggering a relay for it? If so, I would run a 2/0 wire from it to a splitter, then use one side for constant hot circuit and add a relay connected to the glove box power port to trigger a switched circuit on the other side (I have a Blue Sea fuse box with 6 constant hot and 6 switched circuits).
I just haven't got a clear answer whether or not this is advisable, or should I just come off the battery. It would be a cleaner install with everything under the hood and no wire running from the back.
I'm not using the 60a wire to trigger the relay (it would be on all the time, that large wire is always hot), I'm powering my fuse box with that alternator wire,
I tried to mock up a drawing of what I have.
Red line is the big red wire going to the alternator from the battery, I ran a 12g wire from there, the purple and put a 20a fuse inline on it, then over to the relay. Relay is triggered from the key switch, I tapped the power port in the glove box for that, since it's switched off of the key.
IIRC, I power my AFR/Boost gauge via plug-in on the glove-box power outlet. No problems over 2+ years.
As far as a convenient power source, I think the Alternator's red terminal is the easiest to get to in the engine compartment, but I haven't tested to make sure it doesn't have 12V when the engine is off. Went to test today, but both my digital multimeters needed new batteries. A quick site search didn't find any confirmation about using that terminal.
That large cable going to the Alternator is always hot, has to be, we don't have a relay large enough on the sling to switch it.
But, you can use that to feed a relay for your switched fuse box/connection.
I am trying to rid myself of all the liberal leaning apps. I installed and started to use BRAVE web browser in place of Google. I really like it so far. I wish changing email was as easy. I have allot of sites with Gmail as my email account and it would be a pain to switch to something else. But I may bite the bullet eventually.
Brave is a good browser, but it's based off of Google Chromium code. If you use google.com for searching, they still know who is doing the searching.
Brave's big thing is that it blocks potential phishing and malware attacks on you. I use it daily for a lot of my research. It's not perfect, but none of them are. I still use FIrefox for some things.
Also, fyi, the new Microsoft Edge browser has been converted to use chromium code as well, so even Microsoft is using google's code base for it's browser.
Every search engine is logging and selling your data. The only one that I'm aware of that claims to not log that info is https://duckduckgo.com/ and while I use it sometimes, they don't index as good as google does, I don't feel that anyone does.
I work in IT, I use google a LOT in my job and I've tried the others for technical research.
Basically, if you are online, you are being tracked, but there are billions of us, as long as you don't make waves and be noticed, you are probably ok
Just my $0.03 worth
Little help plz?
I installed a little air horn to my SS. I ran my power wire right to the battery . I used the original steering wheel horn button. Horn does NOT work unless key is on. ( just like it should )
I tried to install 1 LED strip under the hood and to a switch in my dash. I tied into to hot wire from the horn to 1 pole to the switch. I tied the power wire from the LED to the other pole of the switch. Then the LED ground to a good ground. The light works fine on/off with the switch HOWEVER it works even when the key is off. The horn only works with key ON.
I want the LED to turn off with the key also.
If you are going to add additional items, My advice is to not use any wiring from existing circuits. Polaris used the minimum sized wiring and fuses to do the job, adding additional amperage will be challenging, even low amperage stuff could put a circuit over the edge.
I think BKL is correct about the button.
My advice, setup your own fuse block, run a dedicated power wire from your battery or alternator to the fuse block, size that wire based on how much amperage you will need for any accessories. I chose to make my entire fuse block switched, so I have a relay in line that is activated upon the key being on. I tied my relay trigger into the 12v power connector in the glove box, since it's switched on key. I tapped the power wire on it and it turns on my relay, feeding power to my new fuse block.
There are fuse blocks out there that have both constant and switched power, more expensive, but you may want that versatility.
Great wrench day today as well !
should I be concerned about the heat off of the header? The hood feels hot and I know the new header and gasket will have a smell but should I be putting some kind of heat shield on the hood above the header? The hoses are right above it as well any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. Don’t want to start burning things up!
I took mine and had it ceramic powder coated black, I new the shiny wouldn't last and to help keep that heat from spreading.
I didn't do temps before and after, just have faith that it's doing what it should
Also, if you more air flow, more than one fan and maybe if you can find a low profile directional vent you can put on front?
Looks really good though!
If you ever want a bit more air flow, we've used these in custom server builds or high heat areas with equipment : https://www.amazon.com/Delta-P…sane-Speed/dp/B0036WG1ES/
Amazon shows it out of stock, but you can search the model number online. We don't use them a lot in computer cases in offices, due to their noise, but in a slingshot, you wouldn't hear them anyway.
We've also used some 600 CFM fans, but they are 110v and wouldn't work well in the slingshot.
You could kit this idea and sell it pretty well, I bet a lot of our northern brothers and sisters would buy.
And you expect no less from Tripod?
IntenseImage there are several howtos and vidoes around on people removing the steering wheel, the toughest part is getting it unstuck, some older models almost seem to rust on and even my 2019, 3 months after buying it, was a chore to remove.
Most steering wheel pullers you rent for free at Autozone and the like, do not have the right bolt combination to do it properly.
Spraying some anti-seaze on the main bolt and letting it sit overnight will do wonders. You could also bribe MiM into shipping you his extra heavy duty puller, don't remember who gave it to him, it's home built and will do the job.