Don't forget the tail light oil and to refill the air in the air conditioner, don't want it running low.
Ok what did i just Blow Up ......
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Yet NO ONE has mentioned the cutinary valve. I learned about this at Columbia Motorcycle, the local Harley shop that a buddy worked at, and his dad owned, back in the 70's. New 'gunk brushes' (shop employees) were tasked on their 1st day with a trip to the parts store for a cutinary valve for a specific bike and a can of 10:1 compression. They were told it was of the utmost importance and don't come back without them or they wouldn't have a job. Pretty much all of the local parts stores were in on it and would tell them they were out, or just sold the last one and to try so-and-so up the street. The most diligent guys would show back up at 5:00 and basically quit. You gotta give the owner credit for getting nothing out of a new employee for a day just to entertain the others.
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a friend/competitor in the painting business always asks new "experienced" guy where to buy thinner for latex paints....
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Looks good but I now have the MightyVac that Polaris said to use. Spent 2 hours using it then left it on overnight with vacuum. Still didn’t remove all the air. The input for the fluid in the slave cylinder is at about the 2 o’clock position. You can’t get all the air out of the slave cylinder. I am told there is a company that is drilling the slave cylinders and relocating the input to the top so that you can get all the air out. You would think that GM would have done this years ago but they didn’t have too.
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Looks good but I now have the MightyVac that Polaris said to use. Spent 2 hours using it then left it on overnight with vacuum. Still didn’t remove all the air. The input for the fluid in the slave cylinder is at about the 2 o’clock position. You can’t get all the air out of the slave cylinder. I am told there is a company that is drilling the slave cylinders and relocating the input to the top so that you can get all the air out. You would think that GM would have done this years ago but they didn’t have too.
TOLD YA’LL !!! King of the Slingshot clutch change !! Any questions he is your man. I taught Slingrazor a few things also
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Alright had some free time & made some progress, hoping to make a little more tonight , so all ill have left will be to lift it out....... Dave@DDMWorks ...quick question, did you loosen the nuts/bolts on the transmission mount underneath or just support it......?
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We do not touch the transmission mount when removing the engine. We leave the transmission in the Slingshot and support the bell housing with a jack. Then slide the engine out the front.
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We do not touch the transmission mount when removing the engine. We leave the transmission in the Slingshot and support the bell housing with a jack. Then slide the engine out the front.
Cool, so i have it up on my Quick Jack and will slide one of my floor jacks underneath the bell housing and support & lift as im finally lifting it out, thanks....i was confused about do i loosen the engine mounts from the side of the engine , but i see from your list that i just have to loosen the 15mm bolts on top and bottom of the mounts and once I lift and clear the mounts i can remove em and continue sliding the engine forward ...... have to get me a fuel line release tool than ill be ready
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Ah gas line off, done for today til its time to lift it out, thank god for Autozone
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The early Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth had an exhaust "donut" that we had to change out. They started squeaking when changing from park to drive or reverse and the engine shifted.
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My 2010 Pontiac Vibe (actually, a Toyota Matrix) had one of those.
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So i see i have to add another tool to my collection.......any Suggestions on a good Torque Wrench Angle Guage tool....
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Ok so i would like to lift and place my engine in something allowing me to work on it & came across this
https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-80…adle-Wheels/dp/B078WHPXVT
Please let me know what you think, its my first time pulling a engine and would like to make it as painless as possible
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Ok so i would like to lift and place my engine in something allowing me to work on it & came across this
https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-80…adle-Wheels/dp/B078WHPXVT
Please let me know what you think, its my first time pulling a engine and would like to make it as painless as possible
I think this stye stand is more functional and around the price same
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I think this stye stand is more functional and around the price same
First of all thats the T style engine stand my son has , i wont use it for fear of that single straight forward lower bracket , not enough support for me and secondly correct me if im wrong but on a engine stand i wont be able to replace the cluches......
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I was about to buy this one, better support but still wont be able to work on it
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The engine is around 325-350lbs give or take a few lbs , the cradle on wheels holds 750lbs ....im assuming the front width is for mounting where the transmission mounts, then the concern is the back 2 brackets mounting to the engine .......
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That engine stand looks like it's primarily aimed at V8 engines since the arms of the stand are relatively wide for a 4-cylinder engine. A more conventional engine stand that mounts the engine to a rotating assembly that fastens to the block. These HF engine stands are examples of what I'm describing - https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=engine%20stand. They cost a little more than the one you referenced, but they also have wheels to make it easier to position whichever part of the engine you need to reach. IMO, the cheapest HF stand does have a potential stability problem since it only use three wheels, so I'd recommend one with 4 wheels.
This video does a good job of explaining how to size the bolts needed to attach the engine to the stand -
.This video addresses balancing the engine when mounted to the stand so that the motor can be safely rotated with things like cylinder heads on the engine
. He prefers a leg design like shown on the more expensive HF 1-ton engine stand, but I feel the HF mid-grade stand should still provide needed stability. While he's using a 3-wheel stand, it allows him to more easily position the engine stand under the engine lift, unlike the problems displayed in this other video - , where the broadly spaced engine stand legs interfered with positioning the engine stand under the engine lift.Just some safety points to ponder. Good Luck.
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I have my spare motor on a pretty cheap engine stand and it works just fine.
I just needed to make some spacers to clear the clutch when I mounted it. It has actually been on that stand to 2 years