What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies....?

Quote from Roadhawg

3GunSteve I need help. Have the sub installed and the JL Audio MX300 amp hooked up, but my question is, where does the amp get its signal input from? There are RCA jacks on the amp, but the Ride Command doesn't have an RCA output to connect them to. So, how did you wire yours up? Can you explain? Thanks in advane and if anyone else knows what I'm talking about, I'd appreciate the advice.

You'll need to route the signal from the stock system's speaker output to an adapter that will convert the high-level speaker output signal to an RCA Line-level for the amp. SOme amps have inputs to use either the RCA inputs or the High-Level speaker outputs. More info in my Post # 2799, above.

Just checked the JL Audio website and your amp has switchable inputs to use either the RCA inputs or higher voltage speaker inputs.

Here's a Google Search on Connecting a subwoofer amp to a car radio without subwoofer outputs - https://www.google.com/search?…s0KHZv6Ae4Q4dUDCAw&uact=5. Hopefully, one of the Search links will help you figure out what to do.

Quote from BKL

You'll need to route the signal from the stock system's speaker output to an adapter that will convert the high-level speaker output signal to an RCA Line-level for the amp. SOme amps have inputs to use either the RCA inputs or the High-Level speaker outputs. More info in my Post # 2799, above.

Just checked the JL Audio website and your amp has switchable inputs to use either the RCA inputs or higher voltage speaker inputs.

Here's a Google Search on Connecting a subwoofer amp to a car radio without subwoofer outputs - https://www.google.com/search?…s0KHZv6Ae4Q4dUDCAw&uact=5. Hopefully, one of the Search links will help you figure out what to do.

Thanks again for the info. The other posts were also very helpful. I discovered last night, for the first time, what those adapters are that convert high level speaker output to line level signal my amp can use without frying the circuit (glad I didn't try that... lol) they're pretty cheap on Amazon. I also discovered the same thing you mentioned regarding the amp being switchable and I haven't even checked the dip switches to see what they're set at, so I'm going to do that this morning and maybe have better luck today.

There are other speaker pods out there, but I really like the recessed, hidden look of these. Great job SSVworks !

Got my new Plus 1 quad fenders finally mounted and sourced a waterproof led Taillight , what a bear to wire , never stopped to think polaris uses a hot wire into and out of their

brake lights, and only grounds it at the brake light switch to complete the circuit manually when pedal is pushed. Electrical is not my strong suit, took me a while (too long) to figure out how to add a relay back there to get my brake lights working when the pedal gets pushed. But all is well that ends well , lol

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Quote from BKL

Just checked the JL Audio website and your amp has switchable inputs to use either the RCA inputs or higher voltage speaker inputs.

Sure enough, those switches were not set correctly for low voltage input. They were set for high and the input sensor was turned all the way down. Of course, it should be, given it protects the amp when you install it, then make adjustments as needed. My mistake was thinking it was already set up for the Slingshot, since I purchased it from Slingmods, but kudos to those guys. They've always been helpful. So, I'm going out today to pick up a couple of RCA jacks and splice them into the low voltage output coming off the Ride Command and then try it again.

Roadhawg Your on the right track with that line converter. As I understand it the ride command has one signal that comes out of it, so you can use that line converter to take that signal and split it off then Y for subs etc... That is probably the cheapest way and should work the same as the $100 cable I got that goes between ride command and the factory amp. The guy normally makes that cable with two RCA outputs (still one signal from ride command) - I had him wire me one with three sets of hi-ouput wires for the amp I went with. Mine all works, only issue I have is a little static when no audio is playing (might be there when playing but I don't hear it!) and think some ferite rings might solve that next time i have seat out. The only benefit to using this cable was keeping the factory tweeters when I added the 6.5" speaker to the rest of that pod - waste of money as those tweeters suck.

I can't find the link to the Amazon converter I had found, but doing it again I would totally go that route. Eventually one day someone is going to make a head unit that works with ride command data and have a corner on the slingshot audio market - I hope!

*edit* - this is the one I was looking at that would of saved me $100, could of just split off this RCA output etc... https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI…-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

Quote from 3GunSteve

Roadhawg Your on the right track with that line converter. As I understand it the ride command has one signal that comes out of it, so you can use that line converter to take that signal and split it off then Y for subs etc... That is probably the cheapest way and should work the same as the $100 cable I got that goes between ride command and the factory amp. The guy normally makes that cable with two RCA outputs (still one signal from ride command) - I had him wire me one with three sets of hi-ouput wires for the amp I went with. Mine all works, only issue I have is a little static when no audio is playing (might be there when playing but I don't hear it!) and think some ferite rings might solve that next time i have seat out. The only benefit to using this cable was keeping the factory tweeters when I added the 6.5" speaker to the rest of that pod - waste of money as those tweeters suck.

I can't find the link to the Amazon converter I had found, but doing it again I would totally go that route. Eventually one day someone is going to make a head unit that works with ride command data and have a corner on the slingshot audio market - I hope!

*edit* - this is the one I was looking at that would of saved me $100, could of just split off this RCA output etc... https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI…-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

Thanks for that. I suspect, after looking at Slingmods website, that there is a harness that connects the Ride Command to the amp that I hadn't seen before, didn't come with the amp, and costs 69.00 if I want it.

Okay, next question. Does anyone know what this is. I discovered it behind the dash cluster this morning. It's all bound up and isn't long enough to reach anything. First time I've seen it after a year of ownership, but everything on the Sling appears to work fine. Any ideas? Is it a diagnostic plug or do the Slingshot even have one? Thanks

BKL  rabtech  3GunSteve

Quote from Roadhawg

Thanks for that. I suspect, after looking at Slingmods website, that there is a harness that connects the Ride Command to the amp that I hadn't seen before, didn't come with the amp, and costs 69.00 if I want it.

That's pretty much what mine is, just comes from a guy on FB. Unplug the plug from factory amp, ride command signal goes to one plug on his cable, other plug of his cable back into amp, then you have two sets of RCA outputs and pre-amp wire that will turn amp on with radio. Instead of using RCA and party based on my confusion thinking there was more than one signal coming out of the ride command, I had him make me this version that I then soldered up to the amps hi-input plugs on my amp.

Question for you - on your under sub box, did you get all the movement out of it? I could of went tighter but dang thought I was going to break that bracket that holds it so maybe went two ugga uggas and could of went 3-4 so has a tiny amount of movement but still way secure I think! lol

Quote from Roadhawg

Okay, next question. Does anyone know what this is. I discovered it behind the dash cluster this morning. It's all bound up and isn't long enough to reach anything. First time I've seen it after a year of ownership, but everything on the Sling appears to work fine. Any ideas? Is it a diagnostic plug or do the Slingshot even have one? Thanks

BKL  rabtech  3GunSteve

That looks like the plug for digital wrench

Quote from 3GunSteve

Question for you - on your under sub box, did you get all the movement out of it? I could of went tighter but dang thought I was going to break that bracket that holds it so maybe went two ugga uggas and could of went 3-4 so has a tiny amount of movement but still way secure I think! lol

Before installing, I first removed the four push pins under there and the two little LEDs that light up the foot well, so the box would be as flush as possible against all that plastic. Then I had to drill my own holes for the sub box bolts. That wasn't too difficult, but like you, I carefully tightened those bolts until I felt they would go through the bracket if I tightened them any further. The box does sit flush and has a good feel to it, but yes, there's still a little movement, particularly on the left side. I know everything down there is made of plastic and there's always going to be some flexibility with that, but I'm considering going down into the top of the box with small lag bolts, through the holes where the push pins used to be and give it a little more strength. I have to say, I'm a little disappointed with the bolt set up that thing came with. Not sure why the don't come up with something better.

Finally, got the green LED interior light kit installed on my 2020 R. Like it.

Quote from Roadhawg

Okay, next question. Does anyone know what this is. I discovered it behind the dash cluster this morning. It's all bound up and isn't long enough to reach anything. First time I've seen it after a year of ownership, but everything on the Sling appears to work fine. Any ideas? Is it a diagnostic plug or do the Slingshot even have one? Thanks

BKL  rabtech  3GunSteve

I agree with MACAWS - that is where the dealer plugs in their Digital Wrench.

I'm in the shop most of the time the tech is working on my Slingshot -- never saw what he was plugging into but it was always in that location.

The Digital Wrench is the computer that connects to mother Polaris.

Unless you purchase the software and hardware ( http://obd2allinone.com/products/mefi6scan.asp ) to clear codes thru your lap top , which i did for another reason but found out it couldnt do what i wanted it to do, so right now i can just read my engine perimeters and clear any engine codes but other than that its the same as a OBDII plug on cars but polaris uses their own digital wrench

Quote from 3GunSteve

Question for you - on your under sub box, did you get all the movement out of it? I could of went tighter but dang thought I was going to break that bracket that holds it so maybe went two ugga uggas and could of went 3-4 so has a tiny amount of movement but still way secure I think! lol

Update: Tonight, I did what I suggested in hopes of strengthening the sub box. These are the holes I mentioned in the earlier post...

The one under the coolant tank is the most difficult to get to, but worth the effort. I simply unbolted it and moved it aside. Next, I used a 1/8 inch bit to drill pilot holes, then finished the job with 3/4 inch screws on the outer two and 1 inch screws on the two in the center...

In my opinion, I believe it makes a huge difference in reducing the amount of wiggle and jiggle it had before. Of course, whether I missed the drivers with those four screws is anyone's guess... lol

Ok, so not "today's" project, but the result of the winter tear-down. Went full on nerd mobile and loving it! Nose cone removed, "polaris" filled in, sanded, painted. Dash and hood accent pieces sanded and painted. Auxiliary fuse box, better battery, underglow, halos, interior accent lighting, and a FEW accent LEDs installed (and dash switches to kill them all in case the local police are unimpressed). Roll hoops and spoiler hardware removed and sent for powder coating. Lower tub and mud flaps sanded smooth and painted to match the roll hoops. New seats installed with some headrest embroidery done by a local shop. Worked with AMR Racing to get the custom BSG graphics kit designed and printed. Installed said graphics kit. Then took her for a 1000+ mile round trip shakedown cruise down to Daytona for Bike week!

Quote from vansalter99

Ok, so not "today's" project, but the result of the winter tear-down. Went full on nerd mobile and loving it! Nose cone removed, "polaris" filled in, sanded, painted. Dash and hood accent pieces sanded and painted. Auxiliary fuse box, better battery, underglow, halos, interior accent lighting, and a FEW accent LEDs installed (and dash switches to kill them all in case the local police are unimpressed). Roll hoops and spoiler hardware removed and sent for powder coating. Lower tub and mud flaps sanded smooth and painted to match the roll hoops. New seats installed with some headrest embroidery done by a local shop. Worked with AMR Racing to get the custom BSG graphics kit designed and printed. Installed said graphics kit. Then took her for a 1000+ mile round trip shakedown cruise down to Daytona for Bike week!

Need more pics please!

right all that work and one pic!?

threw in some permanent tire stickers in the rear. Man what a pain in the ass because the glue starts getting all over when putting the letters since I installed them without removing the tire. Def not as easy as it looks. I will probably remove the front tires for the rest.