The solistace starter worked for me. When you take the intake manifold off to get to the starter you don't need to remove the fuel rod although the manual says you do. Also be mindful there are wires fastened to the bottom of the intake manifold which are virtually impossible to get to. In other words don't just tug out then up unless you want to have a bad day. Once the manifold is out the starter is relatively easy to remove.
Posts by Cman
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I thought I saw you say you were going to change yours out on another thread. Did you ever get to it? Can you advise where you purchased the starter from?
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Any updates on where this landed?
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Out here in Houston and just installed some new DDMWorks goodies..
Well... DDM just sold a hood vent off of that post.
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Cman this is the plastic piece I was talking about. I would show you how it works on the gullwing roof but mine isn't installed at the moment. If you don't have this, email Twist Dynamics and ask for one. If you need directions on how to use it, just ask.
Thanks I will take another look
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Have the same top! Enjoy! Btw it looks bad ass with both tops off
I find it difficult to get the wings off the top. It is super tight when sliding it back.
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I have some RR tracks near my house when I crossed them the first time I felt the difference. No more shopping cart bounce.
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right all that work and one pic!?
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I encounter it often here in Texas, either when passing a tractor trailer on the Interstate (typically just under 70 mph) or on 2-lane secondary roads when a tractor trailer or big vehicle passes in the opposite direction (typically at 50 to just over 60 mph). Have the vents, just need to make time and get the nerve to cut the hood!
Same here I'm leaning towards getting them in Maggie Valley and getting DDM to install them. I'm fair at the DIY work but if I mess up my hood I would not be happy. I also just completed my latest round of mods if I get too bored I'll give it a go.
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Well she’s home now. Trip is in the bag.
Welcome to the club
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Those are all good points on safety. To me this subject is like personal finance. There isn't one solution that is going to fit everyone's risk tolerance. I have a gullwing top and tall windscreen. I don't typically wear one but I'm fine with others who do.
If you REALLY want to get into safety don't drive an open air three wheeled vehicle whose power can break the rear wheel loose in a turn. Instead purchase a large SUV with the latest safety features.
To a certain degree all of us have accepted that first level of risk. Unless of course you bought it to look at in the garage
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what type of helmet is it?
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I have 3 or 4 pages with me with all the sections there. Granted it is a little confusing because it starts off say autocycles are included unless they're closed in, but that last section is clear to me. There is another thread on this where a member took this to court with an attorney. After reading that thread I went to go read it myself.
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My Wife and I wear helmets as we did on the MC. Tennessee is a helmet state and even if it wasn't we'd still wear helmets. I understand some when they say they're hotter than not wearing one. But it's a trade off because the helmet is quieter and my Wife and I can talk normally going down the road with our SENA headsets installed in the helmets. Helmets are carbon fiber so they are extremely light compared to other models. I don't mind the helmet and will continue to wear it.
What makes you say that? I read through the law and dont see it being required for autocycles. At the end of the safety section it says auto cycles excluded. I keep a copy of it in my glove box.
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I have an aftermarket head unit with amp. If I bypass the amp and go from head unit to speaker then no noise. Therefore I think it is something to do with the amp. High level inputs are being used and you have to take the dash off to get to it so it is a pain to work on.
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Anyone run in any static with hooking up those sound systems? I put the ssv kit in and for the life of me can't figure why I get constant static. I moved the ground to three different locations with no luck. I may take it to a shop...granted you can't hear the static when on the move in the SS.
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UAS under glovebox sub enclosure with two 6.75 subs.
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lite the nite interior led kit. Expensive but nice set if leds and nice app to control it along with brightness control.
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painted by a local shop
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cubby fuze block