What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies....?

    After I added Baker side wings, my stock ripper fluttered quite a bit on each side.</p>
    <p>I used some parts available on Amazon to make windshield strut supports.</p>
    <p>There is zero flutter at any speed now.</p>


    Thanks mpj220 I was thinking about getting some kind of supports. My girl and I are taking about a 200 mile ride tomorrow should be a good test before I decide on supports, would you happen to have any pictures of your supports?

    Quote from Instalerrob

    After I added Baker side wings, my stock ripper fluttered quite a bit on each side.</p>
    <p>I used some parts available on Amazon to make windshield strut supports.</p>
    <p>There is zero flutter at any speed now.</p>


    Thanks mpj220 I was thinking about getting some kind of supports. My girl and I are taking about a 200 mile ride tomorrow should be a good test before I decide on supports, would you happen to have any pictures of your supports?

    I have the F4 tinted 5+ windshield with the Baker "Air Wings" Instead of just the small washer with the screw that holds the windshield we add a 1 in x 2 in (plate/washer)


    That worked well. Bruce Baker installed my Wings at his shop...April of 2015...I think first on a Slingshot. Test drive with a little flutter --- added the flat washer and stopped most. 85,000+ miles with the set up. Last I looked he is still using my Slingshot for pictures on his web site.

    Yesterday's 300 mile drive to Little Rock and back was a waste of time in some ways - the conference was pretty much a waste of time, but it was a great opportunity to make a final tune up on the new QA1 shocks. I had about 50 miles on rural roads through the Ozarks - mostly on highway 16, then 50 miles up and down the Pig Trail, and about 200 + miles at highway speeds averaging about 80 mph on I-40. It was just 30 degrees at 7am when I left Friday morning (insulated overalls, warm boots, thermal balaclava under my helmet, and heated gloves!) It had warmed up to 65F when I started my return journey about 3 pm.


    I tried a couple changes to the settings, but arrived at my final decision as I paused at the southern end of the Pig Trail heading back home. I have just one click on the rear shocks. Yes, I like the rear end to be soft! Ruby's rear end was relaxed and compliant, gently yielding to any bump or slap that the road provided with grace and ease. The ride was wonderful and even the crazy crowned and swaled roads didn't make the ride unpleasant.


    I set the front end at 5 clicks. Taut and more muscular, the front end bounced happily as we ran at speed and the curves were wonderful! The front end tires performed as if the road was grabbing them back and holding on!


    Having lowered Ruby's front end about an inch (it was 3/4 inch higher than stock when the QA1's arrived.) Ruby is now about a quarter inch lower than stock, and this did wonders. Handling was great and with the rear a bit softer and the front a bit tighter, everything meshed perfectly. Even the uneven up-n-down we get riding over culverts and our many small bridges here in the Ozarks were no problem. Ruby bounces and wiggles joyfully under me as we rumble over small bridges. Never a harsh and pounding ride, not floaty and out of control, either. Just lots of smiles and a sigh of joy as we finally reached the garage at the end of the day. I love my QA1's!


    Bill from Hahn RaceCraft - I'll be posting this review on your site! :thumbsup:

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

    Quote from SoCal

    It is crazy how I/we never shut down and reboot . Solves a lot of issues 🙂

    My Mac is getting pretty old, its a 2009, up until a short time ago we always left it on, only restarted it when things screwed up. a few months ago I upgraded my internet to 400mbps and I noticed that my wifi was getting faster speeds than the hard wired speed the mac was getting. rebooted the mac and it got it back up to full speed. I figure that because of the age of my mac it now gets overloaded easily because the newer programs and all of the crap on the interned loads up the memory and causes issues - - trying to put off having to buy a new mac so now I set my mac to automatically restart every morning at 6am - - I really should have done this a long time ago, the restarts clear everything out and the Mac is running great - now I can put off getting a new mac and use the money for mod instead :)


    I really wish I had known about the auto restart setting sooner - - I think even on a new machine it will be something I will always enable in the future - - these machines, Mac, Windows, phones - - heck all of these newfangled computer driven electronics seem to benefit from clearing things out with a restart

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    Quote from gooseman

    more pictures from other angles please. Lets see exactly what you did and final results.

    In the middle of a rather wordy essay on this with pictures as it was a learning experience and even though long it may help others. Project is done but she needs a bath! 🙂



    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    that’s pretty close to the settings I’ve used on my QA1s...as far as I know my ride height is close to factory...I do have a stiffer torsion bar...

    New Madstad windshield installed. Kept the old one for now. It was chipped from 4 years of service. I loved it and wish I could have it replaced. It was only 7", Madstad only has 9" and up. I may learn to love it, time will tell.

    I may have also found my "whistle" that I feared was coming from the supercharger. I was looking under the hood, chasing ghosts. Looking for anything (not just possible whistle things) that was out of the ordinary. I found a somewhat loose hose clamp, it was the one going to the blowoff valve. The whistle only happened when the engine was just cruising, like at 60 MPH and no load. It stopped if I throttled boost. I'm thinking it may have been from the clamp that was not really tight to the blowoff valve, and that was letting it leak when boost wasn't asked for or needed. Time will tell soon, like the windshield.

    All in all a good day.

    Here we go...


    This is gunna be a little wordy but here goes. First off thanks for planting the seed on the wire mesh look. I think its very cool. I got the material from Ebay t-304 Stainless Steel Mesh-304 Mesh #4 .047 Stainless Steel Wire Mesh 6"x 18” for about 15$ for two pieces. I wanted the raw edge look - no border. Right off the bat I wondered if this could this be done and not have the outside wire be loose and come out and only be fastened on two of the four edges? Turns out yes.


    I put the mesh on the grinder wheel at 90 degrees to make it even on the edge and to my delight when doing so the wire ends “mushroomed” a tad like a nail head. Very hard to see but it was enough that it kept the last outside wire in place and strong. Then how to install and keep it in place hard and fast on only two sides with no wobble and feel good about it. This literally keep me up one night. I am in the boat biz and I used a product called Marine Structural Filler. This is an epoxy filler that bonds rock hard in about 5 min. You can sand it in 7 min. I removed the front spoiler and put it on a table. I laid up the mesh over the area and used masking tape to mark the cut area. I cut the wire mesh with a chisel on a slab of steel. if you cut it with snips it will be a mess. The chisel makes a clean cut and you can follow the outline you want easy and fast. When done go to the grinder for the finish work.


    The spoiler is compartmented with plastic and the front painted parts bolted together. I put masking tape over the plastic part back side so the filler would not bond the two together. Lightly sand the area on the back side of the spoiler for a good bond. I put a strip of 1/8” auto door bumper on the edge of the spoiler. This way if I ever wanted to remove the mesh it could be done and the spoiler would not be damaged by vibration of the mesh over time. Having a black/gray SS you can’t really see it. Lay the cut wire mesh over the area line it up where you want it and put a few dabs of hot glue to keep in place. Mix up a small batch of filler and apply. You have about 2-3 min / batch. Repeat as needed. After cured sand the inside area as needed. Tape off your mesh and SS painted areas and spray paint flat black to the back side of the spoiler for a better look and you are done.


    All said and done If this ever becomes damaged and needs to be removed it can be cut/snipped out from the back side. The filler will add strength but you will NEVER get it out. It is there for good so make sure you are ok with that. The door edge trim will protect the spoiler edge so should you remove the mesh the trim comes off and you will never know it was there unless you look at the back side.

    There is zero worry about this mesh coming out or being loose or wobbling short of a 2x4 hitting it and then perhaps just bent. It is IN THERE. This is my only regret. When measuring I cut the length a bit short on the top side. I was thinking ( or not ) abut the cut off line between the hood and the spoiler. Hind sight I would have liked it to be about an inch or so taller. But you have to be on your knees to see it so all good. And like I said - you better want to do this because the filler is there to stay.     Hope this give some insight to anyone that might want to try this.


    We all love our SS’s and we all look at others SS’s and say Gee I love that or cool but not for me. I was not happy with any of the gap fillers on the market today EXCEPT the one Sully has but I'm to cheep to spend 600+$ on a gap filler. Seeing Goosemans work really got my wheels turning. I actually like the fact you can see the “guts” of the front suspension and wanted to keep that. This is my way of for me having a look I like and still being able to see the front “guts” that for me are part of "the look" of he SS.






    The door trim on the spoiler edge / wire up against it.



    This is the top area where I wish I had another inch or so - oh well.


    Back side - kinda gloppy but you will never see it - resin area painted black.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎