Posts by Goats_Hogs

    Thanks for the reply. I heard it run before it came to you. I thought it was in the valve train but wasn't sure what. Good to know .

    When we listened using that piece of hose, that's the exact spot we heard..... #1 exhaust. We talked about pulling the cam cover, but even if we found the issue, we couldn't fix it there. Luckily it had made it back to Adam's trailer and got loaded without issue.

    Same here on the blown engine! But if I did I'd go with a forged engine next time. I've researched, but that's the easy part. Price point, I like the ZZP. But DDMWorks has come thru so many times.....

    Just trying to help. Good luck!

    I researched both. I wanted to go with the turbo, as it was cheaper to get the numbers I hoped for. I'm thankful I could buy one from a friend that had the supercharger already installed, so I could build it the way I wanted to from there and have what I really wanted in the first place! Thanks Brody ( bjk81 )!

    Turbos come on all at once. Explosive power, like a 2 stroke dirt racing bike. The power varies with RPM, but once it spools, it's there until you let off. The other negative is that they are more likely to blow an engine. Lean/detonation is an issue on both, but if anything fails on the turbo setup (AF ratio, Manifold pressure, boost control.... as I understood it) you could be looking for a new engine due to a hole in the piston or one of them coming out thru the block.

    Supercharging works differently. It is belt driven, so there's zero turbo lag. If you have spooled a turbo, the power is there, but it's powered by the exhaust gases. If you let off, and then put the right foot down..... it has to spool up from the exhaust and then deliver power. Now, on the SC (supercharger), it is ready and willing to put out now, or let off, then back on... zero lag. Whatever HP is available at that RPM, is available the moment you push down the right side peddle.

    Mine has enough power in 2nd to spin at anything above 2500-3000 by just shoving my right foot down even with traction control on. That's with a summer/sticky tire. The cooler the temp, the worse it gets. I've had sticky tires give way in upper RPMs at closer to 90 if it's cool out.

    But here is the real difference. I run 93 octane only (just for reference), and the SC is very predictable. Lower RPM, it helps, but not intrusive. About 3700-3800, things change. Now the performance is strong and predictable. It ramps up quickly, but comes on with the RPM, so you can feel and adjust for it. Think of a graphic sign that shows the HP as the RPM grows. Think of that as rising quickly after 3800 or so RPMs. That is the SC, and you can let off if you want and then ask for more and it will be right there as before.

    This is the best that I can describe it here. If you would still like more, PM me and we'll set up a time for a phone conversation. :)

    Or Dave at DDMWorks can explain it better I'm sure. A call to him might serve you well.... :)

    mikeboztx you might want to mention in your ad that these will fit 2017 through 2020 model years. Also whether or not you would sell the luggage separately. I might be interested in that - those are pretty nice bags!

    Very cool that you would share this here my friend! Seeing how you make and sell them (not to mention this is your thread), and these are less and come with a set of bags speaks volumes of your character! But I knew that already..... Good on you Brother!

    Technically... not today. But Detective6811 and yours truly went to the Wizard Painter about 10 days ago. We arrived early Thursday morning, finished up about noon on Saturday. The Detective and I did much of the prep work, as did Dewayne, (don't know if he is on here or if that's the correct spelling) and Painter did the final sprays. I did a few, but that was up until what counted. This is the outcome.... (Detective's was pretty well apart for body). Not bad for less than 3 days....

    Detective's Sling....

    My Sling.....

    I keep seeing the white one and wondering how it is doing. :(

    The new owners are Adam and Cindi. Adam was at the wheel this week. He's much easier than Cindi as I understand it! Bu11sh1t can likely tell you for sure. But it was fine at the start, but by the second day, a hard knock was in the upper cam cover area in the front on passenger side. It was behind the cam chain area, likely the first or second valve. It got worse as the day went on. It's going to Dave at DDMWorks to be looked at and fixed. Other than that, it still looks awesome, and it didn't let them down as we got back to home base without issue!

    I've seen at least 4 of them around me on the road in the past 2 weeks. Might be a collector if someone chooses to call it that, but it seems to me that all the Slingshots depreciate enough (quickly) to never mention Polaris Slingshot and Collector in the same sentence.....

    I'm not trying to sound like I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but is your slingshot either turbo or supercharged? Do you know of anyone who has had overheating problems with their slingshot? Other than your desire to have one, is there any reason you need to have a water temp gauge if there's no history of overheating slingshot engines, and if you're nonboosted?

    Just inquisitive minds want to know

    Speaking for myself only.... I just like to see what the machine is doing at all times. I had a temp gauge, voltmeter, and oil pressure gauges on my last Slingshot. You would be amazed how quickly they heat up, the cooling is marginal at best. Oil pressure is the lifeblood of the machine, so I enjoyed seeing high numbers on that. And the voltmeter covers something many have had issues with on the SS. I noticed that in 5th, there were times it was only charging at 12.5, and rarely at 14.7.... what it should if depleted.

    This Slingshot will get those 3 for sure, but with the supercharger I will be sure to add an air/fuel ratio gauge. I just don't like idiot lights, they tend to tell you when a problem becomes real for you (like breakdown). Gauges let you know that something isn't really right BEFORE it's a real problem. I also change my Syn oil every 3500 miles.... cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned!

    G_H tosses two new pennies out on the floor.....

    Very interested in how you find the R/S tire in cool (below 60F) and cold (below 40F) conditions?

    It does well down to 60. It gets harder and will spin easier around that and below. It's not recommended for below either 30 or 40 degrees, I don't recall. It's a ultra high performance summer tire. I don't ride much below 45 anyway, so it works for me.

    I really have to disagree with you about the BFG tires, I ran both and the BFG's are the worse tires that I have bought, including the stock Kenda's. The General G-Max AS-03 were the best but they do not make it anymore. The new General that Goats_Hogs is running, I forget the number is said to be just as good and will be my next tires to buy. Right now I am running the Riken Raptor ZR Ultra High Performance and they are just as good as the AS-03. I still have a full set of the Riken and another spare for the rear. Great tire for the wet.

    You are talking about The General RS series. Beats the AS-03 in every way other than miles. The RS will only get around 10k if you are pushing it hard. I got about 11k on my first Sling. This Sling is supercharged, and I'm likely looking at about 9-10k max (maybe less, not determined yet). Yes, I hit it harder. But even with 330 HP at the crank, if the road is sticky enough I can hold thru 2nd without breaking traction. The Nitto 555 broke in 3rd at 5500 RPM under full throttle as a comparison, less on a 65 degree day (as low at 45 MPH in 3rd, went sideways when it was 62 degrees in the fall evening). As for the AS-03, it was great if you were N/A and just wanted decent miles from the tire and great overall traction and hold in curves. The RS will do way better, but rough figure about 10K for the life of the tire. At $200ish for the rear (the fronts will run closer to 25-30k), I'll stick with it. (Pun intended)

    I bought the 32mm, then I thought Goats_Hogs posted that a 34mm was required. It's only a $10 part but I want to make sure I have the right one when I do the install.

    I had the same problem. I'm pretty sure I did the same thing, bought the 32mm. But it was small. I actually think I bought the 34, 36 and the 38. They were cheap, and I just wanted to move forward. It's in the largest thread on here..... LOL! It was either the 34 or the 36, I'd bet the farm on that. For $20, I'd suggest getting both. If you want to wait long enough, I'll likely be doing it to this SS this winter too....