Posts by Goats_Hogs

Attention Vendors. Please email any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    I also was the grateful recipient of the SOG emblem from Mark and it's a work of art! I've been really busy with work and following grandchildren to basketball games and just now getting a chance to post about it. Thank you to whomever was involved in this effort... truly made my day!


    I know for my SS, the Redline heavy shockproof full synthetic 75W250 is all it will get in the Angle Drive

    After reading these threads it all makes sense however I am a novice at this. With the hot summer temperatures I get here it sounds like this would be perfect for me - do you agree? I have 16,000 miles and have never changed my gear oil. Sounds like this should be on my list ASAP

    I agree fully. My temps don't get to where yours do, but it does get hot here at times in the summer. I've ridden my SS at temps from low 30's to 105, and it has worked well for me. For my SS, I wasn't worried about the transmission as it is recommended for service at 50K, and it is used in other vehicles. I did change it at 25K, but I've always been anal about maintaining my vehicles. The angle drive was designed for the SS, and personally I'm sure it could have been done better. Some have cracked the housings, some have had bearings or gears fail. I'm not saying that it couldn't have happened, or that they weren't abused. However, I've heard of many failing, and many others that got replaced by Polaris because they were failing (before actual leaving the person stranded). It does seem to me from the newer ones I've been around that they may have improved them since the first couple years models. Like you, I have a 2016.5, and mine was pretty loud at times. While it's still not quiet, it has reduced the noise by at least 70% compared to new. I'd attribute Redline to at least 1/2 of that. Having the 250 on the high side, helps with the higher temps. Most of my riding is at 60 degrees and above, with likely 85% of it being closer to 80 to over 100.

    Make it easy on yourself and get this tool. It's cheap, and can be picked up at most Autozones and such. I got my Redline and the tool off Amazon. Link is to show tool.... :)…4&keywords=gear+lube+pump

    MiM I don't have $10K laying around that I want to burn.... but even if given to me for free, not sure I'd want it. It's OK, but can't say I really like it any better than what's on mine now. Personal taste I guess. When I got mine, it was for many reasons. I loved the look. I loved the power to weight, and the ways to increase that. I loved the handling. And having had a bad wreck on the Harley just a few short years earlier, I liked the safer quality to it. Everything (almost) that I've done to it has been related to comfort or performance. I don't have that much spent on my SS in nearly 3 years. Count me out.... even though I think it looks pretty good.

    The only way I see this not working Goats_Hogs is if the header in this package isn't the one he's going to release as stand-alone in the future. Perhaps this header and exhaust has a different connector and they will make it standard on the new version?

    I thought that at first, but if you look at the statement he made that I put into bold, he said it is the THIS header (not a similar header). If this header is a direct replacement for the stock manifold (as stated above) then any header that does the same will bolt up to the rest of the set up they make. If they aren't interested in selling it that way, that's fine. I just see a market that they could tap into to sell more parts from a design that they already appear to have. Seems like that would be a good thing for the company. From what I see, the big difference in this system is where the down tube connects to their muffler. Looks like a good system, better than the stock setup which I've had some leaks from in the past.

    I do appreciate what ZZPerformance has brought to the table. I've kicked around getting their set up and going boosted. So far, I've chosen to just stay the way I'm set up now, it's really enough for me most of the time. The times that it's not enough, would likely turn into the times I'd be looking at tickets..... LOL!

    EDIT: I left the message I originally wrote in full. I looked too quickly, and didn't notice that the header/down tube was one piece. No way it would work with anything stock (other than mount to the head) without an adapter of some type. Blame my dumb self for rushing while looking at this and trying to do 20 other things at once. My apologies to all.....

    With all of the different headers out there, it would be difficult to make a pipe that would adapt to them all or even a few specific units. And to be honest and up front, we typically don't make parts to adapt to other companies parts which has its upsides and downsides.

    We are also going to be releasing this header that will bolt up to the OEM exhaust so for the guys running the factory exhaust or an aftermarket one that connects in the same spot you could use that header. Pricing for that header will likely be around $250. Ass backwards from what you were asking but thought I would put it out there.

    Thanks for the clip, and hope to hear the one that might be coming up.

    You are making parts to adapt to other companies parts, you said that very thing in the second paragraph. In fact, everything you do is make parts that adapt to other companies parts. As for the headers that are out there, most bolt up to all factory equipment just like the original cast iron manifold did if there is no other boost in the application. All headers are designed to bolt to the head exactly the same as the iron stock unit does, and if not supercharged or turbo'd the largest majority of them will mount to the stock CAT down tube or a CAT delete pipe.

    It sounds like you already have just exactly what I was asking about, but not for sale. If your header will bolt up to the OEM exhaust (like you said in the BOLD text above), then your CAT delete and muffler will bolt up to the 1320 I have on mine now, as it was a direct replacement for the stock iron manifold.

    I'm only looking to not replace parts again that I've already replaced and that are doing a good job. It really sounds to me like you have exactly what I might be interested in... and there are many on here that have the same set up that I do. I apologize if I sound harsh, or "in your face" on this.... it's not how I intend to come across. I'm just saying that if your header that you use with this kit, is going to be for sale to bolt up to a stock set up otherwise, then the rest of the kit will bolt up to a stock manifold or any header that is a direct replacement for the stock manifold. If I'm wrong, please show me how......

    EDIT: I left the message I originally wrote in full. I looked too quickly, and didn't notice that the header/down tube was one piece. No way it would work with anything stock (other than mount to the head) without an adapter of some type. Blame my dumb self for rushing while looking at this and trying to do 20 other things at once. My apologies to all.....

    I wasn't going to mod but now I have 42 items on my list.. The first 10 ordered and on the way.

    Most of us fall into this category. I wasn't going to mod either.... now have more into mods than I ever did in any Harley I've owned, and there have been many of those! Welcome!

    Would like to hear a sound bite on this. I'd like to hear it at idle, rowing through the gears on normal acceleration, and also letting it eat. Good price on what looks to be a nice unit. Bad thing is, many of us are already running a header and CAT delete. Any future plans for your muffler or muffler/CAT to adapt to a header type of package without replacing the entire set up for those of us that have already done all but the muffler?

    Goats_Hogs : Just to be clear, I saw this on Red Line website and wanted to be clear this is what you are using in the angle drive:

    Redline Gear Oil

    Heavy Shockproof, Full Synthetic


    I read about the Red Line MT90 (75W90) GL-4 Gear Oil and it stated it can be used for GL-3 also; so I ordered 3 Qts of it to use in the transmission.

    Thanks for the Info.

    That is the stuff. Polaris mentions in some of the repair manuals (perhaps was even in the manual that comes with it) that the gear oil is 75W90, but was later admitted that the Polaris gear lube was actually 75W140. I know the 75W250 is heavier on the upper side, but still should be as safe for the lower temperatures. I don't ride much past the mid to upper 30's, so it wouldn't affect me anyway. However, after running 100 or so miles and bringing the Slingshot in for a gear oil change on a hot day, I found both the Mobil 1 and the Royal Purple to be about as thick as water. Going to a heavier (on the top side for heat) lube is an old trick used by hot rodders and Harley riders alike. As long as the lower number doesn't exceed the lowest temperature you plan to ride (75W is good for below zero, which I'll never approach) there won't be a problem. This is especially true on Synthetic oils, as they aren't as affected by temperature as conventional oils.

    Do what you want, as I've said many times, it's up to the owner. I know for my SS, the Redline heavy shockproof full synthetic 75W250 is all it will get in the Angle Drive. I'm not the only one that is using this, I know personally of 5 others that are local to me that are using the same with the same results I had. There are many on this forum that are using it also. I attached a picture that I had on my phone from last spring, of the actual stuff I used on my service from last spring. Someone had asked about it back then, and I just looked it up on my phone.

    PS, Good lord, how did I get sucked into yet another oil thread? :00008356:

    I've used Mobil 1 products, still using their oil for the engine. I've tried Mobil 1, then Royal Purple for the Angle Drive. Last change I went to Redline, as I ran it in many muscle car manual transmissions and rear ends years before. Theirs works great in the transmission, I have no issues with it (it replaced the original fluid and has been the only change for it). However, the Angle Drive it made it quieter, and stayed that way to a much higher temperature outside than any of the other's I'd tried before it. I went with the heavy duty shock proof, which is synthetic and (if I recall correctly) 85W240. I have 10,000 miles on this Angle Drive change (36,500 total miles on it so far), and it's quieter than it's ever been. I won't use anything else now. Most people seem to run either Mobil 1 or Royal Purple, and I've used both of them. My Angle Drive is happier with the Redline, just my experience.

    I don't think the transmission is that particular about the oil used. It pretty well seems happy with anything that meets the recommendation from those I've talked to.

    -26 in my neck of the woods this morning. Car was not happy when I tried to start it. When I tried to drive to work I got a Reduced Engine Power warning on the dash. Couldn't get over 18 MPH. After work it wasn't an issue. Not sure what kicked that on, all gauges in normal range. Oh well, hopefully the worst is over for now.

    One of the guys at the shop had that a couple years ago. His was a Dodge truck with the 5.7 Hemi. I think it was either the MAP or MAF sensor that shut it down. Seems like it was the MAF sensor.... but has been a couple of years. It did the same thing though,

    It was a Corbin Merlin Roadster. It was a kit that you could at one time buy from Corbin. They also had the Sparrow, which I think was an electric version that was somewhat similar that was supposed to come out. The Merlin came as a kit, but might have been able to order one complete. That's about all I remember off the top of my head (brain is getting as gray as the hair up there).…C27F748388ED708BE864A2326

    Is that the total number ever produced.....

    Well sure! That is if they stopped production with Wokka's Slingshot and haven't made any more since. (insert sarcasm here if it wasn't noticed by anyone!)

    That is the total number of Slingshots that were produced for sale that got a VIN number up to and including Wokka's. He's had his awhile (not to mention they were still building them between the date of manufacturing his and also for the days after that until he actually purchased his), so there have been more built since. And I mentioned those that were produced for sale with VIN, as some of the first ones (pre or early production) may have been built for testing on the streets before any were sold. That's a common practice with some manufacturers. The last 5 digits of the VIN number would be the number of Slingshots that were built for sale at the time of VIN stamping on any individual Slingshot. Mine is 16890.

    I was just about to ask the same thing :)

    Also, Goats_Hogs , what gauge did you go with? I still haven't settled on what I'm going to do yet with gauges, since what I really want is not available. So, just looking for options.

    Sorry wokka , I missed your post until this morning. I ended up going with these gauges, because of Marine grade only and knowing that they will be exposed.

    AutoMeter 200744-33 Marine Electric Oil Pressure Gauge 2-1/16 in. Silver Dial Face Brushed Aluminum Bezel

    AutoMeter Auto Meter 990342 Marine Accessories Sensor, Oil Pressure, 0-100Psi, 1/8" Npt Male, for Short Sweep Elec

    Auto Meter AutoMeter 200756-33 Ultra-Lite Gauge, Voltmeter, 2 1/16", 18V, Electric, Marine Silver

    AutoMeter Auto Meter 990344 Marine Accessories Sensor, Temperature, 1/8Nptf Male, Replacement, Short Sweep Elec

    AutoMeter 200762-33 Marine Electric Water Temperature Gauge 2-1/16 in

    Edelbrock 76558

    I also got these two housings (unsure which I'll use, the other one I'll either send back or sell), the second one is at the PO now, but they were closed yesterday because of the -42 wind chill here....…06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1…04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1