Hawk Brake Pads on sale...

    Quote from Ruptured Duck

    sorry. Rear brake will be a little later. Doing the fronts first. Next month more than likely.
    Have to source one more good used rotor to drill for he rear first.

    We have a bunch of stock rotors here if you need some, just let me know.


    Also, let me know if you find someone that can turn drilled rotors. Most places can't do it since the drilled holes catch the bit on the lathe and cause it to break or get damaged. There are some places that use a grinding wheel on a lathe to do it and they can turn crossdrilled rotors, but those are the only places we have seen in the past that can do a good job of it.

    Quote from Dave@DDMWorks

    We have a bunch of stock rotors here if you need some, just let me know.
    Also, let me know if you find someone that can turn drilled rotors. Most places can't do it since the drilled holes catch the bit on the lathe and cause it to break or get damaged. There are some places that use a grinding wheel on a lathe to do it and they can turn crossdrilled rotors, but those are the only places we have seen in the past that can do a good job of it.

    agree about the turning and that's what I'm going to look at. The rotors I have were almost new take offs so I really don't have to do it for testing. If I can't get then turned I will install them first with the OE pads for the first test run just so I don't damage the Hawk pads. Going to a local automotive machine shop. More than likely I'm SOL on the turning but figured I'd give it a try.
    @Dave@DDMWorks you bring up a very good point and honestly had a brain fart before drilling them. Should have had them turned first but thought about and high spots after drilling. Then remembered my counter sinking would have more than likely fixed.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    Edited once, last by Ruptured Duck ().

    will the machine shop was closed so I took a gamble with a guy over at an O'Reillys auto parts. He usually does me good and he didn't fail today. It helped that they were in great shape to start with. SWEET!


    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    Hawk pads modified and installed. I Painted only the caliper mounting bracket installed my stock drilled rotors ... get to break them in tomorrow... laugh-squared

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    I got my pads today and got them installed and bedded in just before the rain. I had good brakes before the change so these feel about the same but way less dust and that's what I wanted.

    :GRAYSS: Its all about that base :HEADERSS::MOTOROILSS::COLDAIRSS::COILOVERSS: Wycked hitch, Welter duels

    Quote from Ruptured Duck

    will the machine shop was closed so I took a gamble with a guy over at an O'Reillys auto parts. He usually does me good and he didn't fail today. It helped that they were in great shape to start with. SWEET!



    Two questions
    1. Didn't know O'Reilly had a machine shop. Do they?
    2. What's the torque on the two screws that hold the brake assembly?

    Just a warning for those that might come across this thread, stay away from THMotorsports .


    I don't know what's going on there but they show items as "in stock" and ready to ship but once you order something you get 2 emails at the same time.


    One tells you that your order has been processed and will ship soon, the next one tells you that something went wrong and they will be issuing a refund in a few business days.......


    After about 4-5 business days they did issue the refund but the whole thing left a bitter taste in my mouth when it happened with two separate purchases.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

    Quote from STYLN

    Oh brother! You have no idea!! Mine worked for about 50-75 miles and felt solid then afterwards each time they were crap. My pedal has to be pumped a couple of times before I apply pressure cuz if not it will go damn near to the floor before stopping or slowing. I thought there was a slack adjuster like on an 18 wheeler that needed to be adusted it was that bad or still is that bad.

    If you look at the Clevis that attaches the master cylinder piston to the brake pedal lever there are two jam nuts on the threaded end of the piston that you should be able to be adjusted to take out slack or move the pedal slightly forward or backward unless I'm missing something. The service manual doesn't mention anything about brake pedal adjustment that I can find.

    Quote from Painter

    Use a gallon sprayer with a PSI gauge, new brake fluid in sprayer and pump to 10 PSI. Start with bleeder farthest away and pump new fluid into it and then work your way towards resevoir. Someone will have to suction the resevoir so it does not overflow.
    Suck most of resevoir dry before starting.

    When you did this did it clean the crap out of the sensors too?

    Silly thread resurrection.


    Mushy brakes are air in the ABS system. Factory recall, for that too.


    Dealer plugs a computer into the sling, which makes the ABS activate, using that for a brake bleed. Works very well, until next time.

    Quote from Dave@DDMWorks

    Yeap, when we were bleeding brakes up at the Maggie Valley event, every slingshot we bled had air come out of that nipple on the ABS module. Most of them had air at the calipers also which was not helping either. A simple bleed of the system with a regular bleeder bottle and a 10mm wrench is all we have been using and if you get all 3 calipers and the ABS module, it seems to work.

    Explain the procedure for bleeding the ABS....do you bleed it after the 3 wheels and do you need to pump the brakes to bleed the ABS? Thanks

    @Bigdog, I would think you're right in your thought. A was always told to bleed furthest from the master cylinder in. That would make the ABS module last.


    I was told to let the Sling sit for a day and tap that module a couple times during that day, to encourage bubbles to rise to the top.

    Quote from Painter

    Use a gallon sprayer with a PSI gauge, new brake fluid in sprayer and pump to 10 PSI. Start with bleeder farthest away and pump new fluid into it and then work your way towards resevoir. Someone will have to suction the resevoir so it does not overflow.
    Suck most of resevoir dry before starting.

    I assume using this method no pumping the brakes is required. Just shoot the fluid to it Louie