Frame Sliders?

    Okay, I know this is a little out there. But has anyone done anything to protect the frame of the SS from bottoming out?


    Background: A few weeks ago back at the Kerrville GTG, I went and drove the Three Twisted Sisters by myself. Let's just say I was a little aggressive in my driving and I bottomed out quite a few times. Luckily, no major damage (although my LEDs were torn to pieces) but I did see a couple minor dents/dings in the frame. And before anyone asks, yes, I had my shocks turned up to 10. (Perhaps I should have turned them up even more, but day to day, I run them about 2-4)


    So got to thinking about what I might be able protect the frame and leds. Looked at the motorcycle frame sliders, looked at snow plow skid shoes, looked at rock sliders, even looked at skid plates. Got other ideas:?:


    Those of you with air ride - what do you use when you set it down all the way?

    didn’t rabtech put a full plate under his? Rab???

    I’ve been looking at how to attach a nylon under frame plate like a friend uses to slide over rocks with his Jeep.

    What is the size of our frame tubing? Maybe we could use pvc, split it and snap it onto the tubes.


    Hmmm. Those bunk boards look interesting (never even heard of these things). Just 4 of them at the corners, self taping screws directly into the frame to hold. Maybe.


    Quote from Tripod

    Just put ‘er in flight mode like samowens44 ...

    That's what I was doing at the top of the hill, right before I hit bottom....

    Quote from chavey2

    Hmmm. Those bunk boards look interesting (never even heard of these things). Just 4 of them at the corners, self taping screws directly into the frame to hold. Maybe.


    That's what I was doing at the top of the hill, right before I hit bottom....

    I would not be drilling holes in the frame, you just might end up with some other problem.

    Quote from FunCycle

    I would not be drilling holes in the frame, you just might end up with some other problem.

    When my 1st Sling was rear ended, the Polaris tech was able to find a couple of tiny cracks (if they were cracks at all) to convince the adjuster that the frame was compromised and the vehicle was totaled. If I was an Oregon resident (where the dealer is) I could have repaired the frame without branding the title, but in Washington I would have ended up with a salvage title, so I went this route. If it was an uninsured accident I would have had no problem at all repairing these areas and driving the wheels off it, but I got out whole and avoided any issues resulting from the wreck.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    I did install a full sheet of ABS to help with wind catching the underside. Back when we did the 1/2 mile and full mile runs. I am sure it probably helped. But I couldn't tell you for sure.


    I cant see putting one underneath a daily driver. It makes everything harder to access. I used EMT conduit straps that have a 7/16 bolt hanging down to bolt my plate on. I used a full 4x8 sheet to cover the underside.

    here is what you need to bolt a plate under the slingshot.


    Just flip them so the hole is facing down. Put a bolt hanging down and tighten everything up. Including the bolt hanging down. Then take a tape measure and hook it on the bolts hanging down. Transfer your measurements over to the ABS and drill a slightly larger hole to make it easier to mount. Just use some flat washers to cover the hole.


    Nothing to it. But its still a pain to work on with it mounted. I have mine propped up in the barn.

    Quote from chavey2

    Thanks All,


    I'm really looking just for something to protect the frame, not make it more aerodynamic. I like the thoughts of the bunk board/plastic sliders. I'm only thinking of putting them where I bottomed out before (now that those spots are clearly marked).

    You might get by using some heavy duty 3M double-stick tape to secure the "sliders" to the frame rails. I'd just make sure that the "sliders" are at least long enough to start before and end after any scratch marks on the frame rails.It might make since to purchase the 3" wide sliders shown as something often purchased as part of an order. When split in half lengthwise, you'd get 20 sliders instead of 8 at less than 50% higher cost.

    During a night ride, I managed to bottom out coming off an entrance ramp when I didn't notice the damned minim island separating the entrance ramp from the main roadway!<X Also did it a couple times when the angle between an exit from a shopping center was unexpectedly high. Fortunately, I usually quickly learn which exits to not use.

    Quote from MACAWS

    Yes you did.. sorry I missed that.

    I don't know I beat mine up pretty good and the only time I bottom out is on a steep transition when my splitter hits.

    Yeah, I bottomed out at least twice in front (completely bending the splitter and front light mounts). But I also hit the back 8 or 9 (or more) times. I can see where I hit right under the A-arms in front and right back at the back corners where the frame triangulates into that casting. I figure if I put some sliders in those spots, that should make everything else clear.


    I guess I could have turned up the shocks even higher. I set them about the middle of the cheat sheet for mountain driving.

    Quote from chavey2

    Yeah, I bottomed out at least twice in front (completely bending the splitter and front light mounts). But I also hit the back 8 or 9 (or more) times. I can see where I hit right under the A-arms in front and right back at the back corners where the frame triangulates into that casting. I figure if I put some sliders in those spots, that should make everything else clear.


    I guess I could have turned up the shocks even higher. I set them about the middle of the cheat sheet for mountain driving.

    Rather than sliders if you are bottoming out I would think that you need to look at your suspension.


    Adding sliders will mean creating "high" spots that in the end could be worse than the original problem and let's not even talk about the implications of welding or making holes on the frame don't know other states but here in mn that would be an absolute no-no unless you are willing to brand the tittle.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.