Posts by chavey2

    If you're tall like that, I'm gonna suggest you look around and see what you fit in. I'm 6'0", but sit tall in the seat (my head comes to the roll bar). I ended up with the Twist Dynamics Gull Wing and have been extremely happy. Some of the others I sat in, the front cross bar was at or below my line of sight. Go to a show and ask people about their tops. I'm sure many will let you sit in them - that's what I did.


    BTW, some different tops out there (I'm sure plenty of people can add more):

    I posted one on another thread but will create a new one with better pics today. Accessory shopping is though...so many things I want. Number 1 is a new top and number 2 is a windshield. 3 would be speaker pods.

    Windshield should be first - but plan it for whatever roof you are getting. Depending on the combination, you can get more or less air through the cockpit. Important if you are riding where it is either cold or hot.

    Depending on how your shocks are set, it could be different. Most are in the 5" range, but check to see if it's level.


    Actually, check your frame first before checking the tube. The tube is mounted to the frame and can be moved around to make the front align with the hood.

    Sounds similiar, but not quite exact, to what Scanman and I are experiencing. See the My Slingshot Just Died thread.


    In my case, I'm pretty sure it's something electrical with the breakers in the fuse box. But because they keep resetting themselves, I can't track it down. I just know to pull the breakers (and ECM cables) and reset and it will start up again. In all my cases however, it always happens while actually driving (50+ mph), not when coming to a stop/idle. I've had it happen at least 4 separate times now.

    Just to summarize what everyone is saying, there are really only 2 differences between the Slingshots:

    • 2015-2019 used the GM 2.4L Ecotec Engine and a manual Transmission; 2020+ use the Polaris engine and have an option for a "hydraulically controlled manual" (i.e. sort of an automatic) or full manual.
    • Base model to top of the line model is just what accessories the factory adds. Even the HP adder for the 2020+ can be added later. Decide what accessories you want from the factory and/or what you are willing to add/change/remove later to decide if you want the top of the line or want to build it yourself. I built mine myself (in my avatar) from a stripped base model.

    And either way, you'll LOVE the SS. Most of us here are also ex-motorcycle riders. Heck, some even still have the 2-wheelers.

    Yeah, sometimes people don't think Texas is that big. I keep telling them:

    • Texas is wider than California is tall.
    • El Paso is closer to California than the Gulf of Mexico.
    • El Paso is closer to the Pacific Ocean than it is to Louisiana.
    • And if you ever are traveling I-10 through El Paso, you either stop there or you don't stop at all. There is nothing 300 miles either direction on I-10.

    Yep, that is definitely the correct breaker. But why would i have power with the key out? I noticed when I pulled the ECM one (on top), when I put it back in, I got a little spark. I'm wondering if I have a short somewhere which is powering that all the time? Anyone got thoughts of where to start looking?


    Anybody know what those circuit breakers are called? I checked Polaris and they want $20-45 EACH for them. Autozone and Google were not my friend this time


    I had the "sputter" happen twice yesterday. Didn't shut down completely, but gives you that heart attack before catching itself again. Chasing electrical gremlins is a b..ch!


    Better. Here's a video that shows you how to do it. They are located on the drivers side of the angle drive, right behind the battery. You don't have to remove the battery or jack up the vehicle to do it.



    Once you get them the first time, they are okay after that. I think the factory just over-torques them with whatever power tools they have. Most 8mm allen wrenches just aren't long enough to get good torque to get them out. After that, it's easy.


    Oh, and replace that gear oil at 1500 miles, 5k miles, and 10k miles. After that you're good for 100k. I just replaced mine (new angle drive a couple months ago) and the amount of metal chips and flakes WAS RIDICULOUS! Looked like someone dropped metal shavings from a drill into the oil.

    [quote='Luigi','https://slingshotinfo.com/index.php?thread/11339-rear-oil-change/&postID=400690#post400690']

    I have been wanting to change my rear drive oil change....I cant get my oil upper fitting of....I have rear exhust...is it stuck? Do I need to heat it up with a torch? PLEASE HELP!!!

    [/quote]

    I eventually had to get an 8mm hex socket on a decent breaker bar. No heat required. Make sure you can get top one out before the bottom.


    Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    SON OF A BEACH!


    It happened again. Going to work yesterday (30 miles on freeway), it did a quick sputter. RPMs dropped, but it recaught (as I was doing 60+mph). Did the same thing twice on the way home but kept going. Stopped for gas, started up, drove 1 mile down the street and it just died. I was only lucky enough to get it into a center median to get out of the way of traffic.


    Did all the stuff I did before - pulled the ECM cables, pulled out the relays/breakers/fuses - nothing. I noticed I had every light on except the start button. Gave up after 30 mins and called an uber (only 7 miles from home). Got the motorhome (truck is in shop for repairs - that's a whole 'nuther story) and a couple basic tools. Decided to just drive back without pulling out trailer just to see if I could get it started.


    Tried starting, thinking it might have cooled. Nuthin'.

    Pulled the ECM cables again. Nuthin'.

    Pulled all the relays out, mixed them up, put them back in different spots. Nuthin'.

    Pulled each breaker and put them back in one by one. Nuthin'.

    Pulled each fuse to check it. Nuthin'.

    Pulled the ECM and the Ignition 10A breakers (the ones with the red dots) and just flip spots. Started right up! Steering wouldn't work. Stopped engine and restarted right up - everything fine! BTW - No code either!


    WHAT THE F!!


    Drove the SS home - no problem. Got another Uber to drive me back to pick up the motorhome.


    Do these 10A breakers go bad? Can you buy replacements at Autozone?


    I believe that all the body panels on the SS are ABS plastic. There are ABS resins (example Easy ABS Resin) to perform the repair. As far as a recommendation for a body shop local to Tampa, Florida, I suggest you do a Yelp or Google search for your local area.