Posts by chavey2

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    Overall, I know that heat kills electronics and shortens the life of LEDs and their circuitry, so I decided to eliminate the boot entirely.

    Some may call this a gamble, but the manufacturer (or Amazon) will warranty for water immersion - but I KNOW that heat will kill my lights - and killing 'em would be my fault if I obstructed the fan.

    Judgement call, yeah?

    I did the same thing (removed the boot entirely). Fan needs air to pull through to cool, otherwise it;'s spinning doing nothing. And these LEDs are all waterproof, so I don't worry about the rain. Have been thru rain a few times already (not by choice) and they still work great.

    I hate you all!


    So, i see these 2 threads the past couple of days. And I figure they are just like the other complaining thread so I hadn't been following them. Until I see that these threads keep getting more and more replies. So I figure something must be up. I read the entire " So have the others seen this . . ." thread. Then I jump to the "Pedal Commander Group Buy..." thread and read all of it. And I had to make my choice: Steering wheel and hub? Or PC?


    slingmods - you've lost a steering wheel sale. (At least temporarily. . . ) :D .

    I also bought some off Amazon. I completely removed the boot. And no problems in heavy rain or high heat either after 4+ months and 7000+ miles. Can't say they light up the road any better, but I did notice it went from yellow to white, which makes it easier to see everything better.

    I'll bring the 30mm socket and breaker bar to do the belt tension. That's the only special tool I know of unless someone has an actual belt tension measuring tool (I just measure by gut feel). I presume someone has an 18mm socket in a standard kit. I have jack stands too.


    Otherwise, I need electrical stuff that I have that I'll bring - Solder iron, solder, shrink wrap, connectors, etc.


    If anyone needs an oil change, I can bring the socket for that too. I have the right size oil drain pan to fit under the SS while on the ground if anyone needs.

    Ya'know, I don't remember now. 15ft lbs is what you do with a screwdriver, so it's pretty lite torque. That's just to keep everything attached while adjusting. I just lifted on the breaker bar until it wasn't going any more (sorry, no torque wrench). 190 is pretty high so I should have been close. (Listen to me not caring about torque - I used to be a Huey mechanic and I even know what "drag torque" is! Sarge would be pixxed at me!)

    Ya'know, I don't remember now. 15ft lbs is what you do with a screwdriver, so it's pretty lite torque. That's just to keep everything attached while adjusting. I just lifted on the breaker bar until it wasn't going any more (sorry, no torque wrench). 190 is pretty high so I should have been close. (Listen to me not caring about torque - I used to be a Huey mechanic and I even know what "drag torque" is! Sarge would be pixxed at me!)

    Yep, pretty easy to do. And you don't need to get on/off the ground that much.


    • Take off the gear cover (ok, so you may have to be on the ground for this).
    • Break the angle drive nut. I ended up buying a 30mm deep impact socket from Autozone (~$12) that fit perfectly with a 2' long 1/2 drive breaker bar from Harbor Freight (~$10). You only need to take about 1/4-1/2 turn out of the nut so you don't need to take it too far. I was able to get my socket/breaker bar in from behind just about perfect instead of underneath as shown in the video. I didn't have to get on the ground for this.
    • Using a 15mm socket on a 6" extension, adjust the final drive position in 1/4 turn increments. Remember: Lefty-Loosey, Righty-Tighty. The hole for it is right behind the passenger seat. Check your belt after each 1/4 turn - it doesn't take much to tighten that belt a lot.
    • Retighten that angle nut with the same socket. Heck, I don't think i even actually took the socket off the nut while adjusting the belt.
    • Put the cover back on.
    • Drink a beer in celebration of a job well done!