Need a rocker ignition switch

  • I had dash damage so a double din was donated to cover it (thank you!) and it required severely cutting my dash. I have the option of drilling a new hole to relocate the ignition switch, but would rather put in a switch that will fit in our standard switch slots.


    This is the only switch I can find that might work. Would prefer something else but if this is all, then I’ll have to get this.


    https://peerlesselectronics.com/k1abcaaaaa-switch

  • PEG not sure exactly what you're looking for but found a few on Amazon. Might try napa also, they handle a lot of switches. also delcity.net is a source

    thank you. Yes there are quite a few out there but most, like this one, are too wide for our slingshot switch holes.

  • The Polaris Start switch does indeed use 3 wires, Pink, Black/White and Yellow or Yellow/White. I'd assume* one wire is ground (probably black) and the other two wires probably power the light in the Polaris Switch and complete the starter circuit when momentarily depressed. Operating under this assumption, I switched the ignition key to the Run position, depressed the clutch and tried shorting out the Pink and Black wires and the engine did not start, but my headlights turned off (they came back on once I recycled the ignition key from Off to Run). I then tried shorting the Yellow and Black wires with the same result. When I shorted the Pink and Yellow wires together, the engine started! This means using a non-illuminated 2-wire Momentarily ON switch should work and start the engine if you connect the Pink and Yellow wires from the connector to the 2 connectors on the switch. Check your local auto parts stores and you should find a push-button, momentarily on round switch that you could fit inside the blank that currently covers an unused switch opening in your dash. This would use the existing slot while the round push button would identify which switch is the push button for the starter. Ideally, you should use waterproof switch such as this - https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-W…Motorcycle/dp/B01LX1H7XF/, although you may need to mount the switch thru one of the blank switch covers while the cover is in place in the dash ( minor pain). If you're really lucky you'll find a 2-wire Momentarily ON when pushed rectangular switch that will fit in the factory switch opening. Make sure you use a momentarily on switch that is only on when pushed and not a switch that stays On until deliberately switched off.

    Good Luck!


    * While in the Army, a common saying was remember that assume can make an ASS out of U & ME! If you have any questions/concerns, ask someone with auto wiring knowledge you trust before trying anything I posted above.

  • Peg, I have a Digital Dog with two remote "fobs" that I'm not going to use. I took it off my Slingshot before selling last fall. It has a rocker switch that fits in the normal slots. It is either "On", or "Off". It looks for the fob, but if the fob is asleep, you just press the button in the center of the fob. It worked great for me, although I did need to press the button quite often on the fob. The other fob (I put it somewhere I'd never forget.... and now need to look for it) is new and never used. I'd make you a great deal on it if you are interested. PM me here or Facebook, my link is on the avatar/profile pic info. It is plug and play, just plugs into the wiring for the original ignition switch.

  • The Polaris Start switch does indeed use 3 wires, Pink, Black/White and Yellow or Yellow/White. I'd assume* one wire is ground (probably black) and the other two wires probably power the light in the Polaris Switch and complete the starter circuit when momentarily depressed. Operating under this assumption, I switched the ignition key to the Run position, depressed the clutch and tried shorting out the Pink and Black wires and the engine did not start, but my headlights turned off (they came back on once I recycled the ignition key from Off to Run). I then tried shorting the Yellow and Black wires with the same result. When I shorted the Pink and Yellow wires together, the engine started! This means using a non-illuminated 2-wire Momentarily ON switch should work and start the engine if you connect the Pink and Yellow wires from the connector to the 2 connectors on the switch. Check your local auto parts stores and you should find a push-button, momentarily on round switch that you could fit inside the blank that currently covers an unused switch opening in your dash. This would use the existing slot while the round push button would identify which switch is the push button for the starter. Ideally, you should use waterproof switch such as this - https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-W…Motorcycle/dp/B01LX1H7XF/, although you may need to mount the switch thru one of the blank switch covers while the cover is in place in the dash ( minor pain). If you're really lucky you'll find a 2-wire Momentarily ON when pushed rectangular switch that will fit in the factory switch opening. Make sure you use a momentarily on switch that is only on when pushed and not a switch that stays On until deliberately switched off.

    Good Luck!


    * While in the Army, a common saying was remember that assume can make an ASS out of U & ME! If you have any questions/concerns, ask someone with auto wiring knowledge you trust before trying anything I posted above.

    Look at the Horn Buttons on Amazon. There are all sizes and types, not just the one that goes in the middle of the steering wheel. I know because I was looking for a button to replace the piece of crap (JUNK) sent with the last steering wheel I bought. studiopeg look at Amazon.

  • Lots of great help here!


    So how'd the dash get damaged?

    My local dealership had a guy who quit. He went out on his own (for a while...). I hired him to put a double din in and I did not know it required complete removal of the dash. He cut my Tufskinz and the metal decorative covering underneath and ripped some of it off which left damage. In trying to get the rest of it off since it looked like *&$, more damage was done. One reason why I ask a lot of questions in here, to learn to do it myself.

  • The Polaris Start switch does indeed use 3 wires, Pink, Black/White and Yellow or Yellow/White. I'd assume* one wire is ground (probably black) and the other two wires probably power the light in the Polaris Switch and complete the starter circuit when momentarily depressed. Operating under this assumption, I switched the ignition key to the Run position, depressed the clutch and tried shorting out the Pink and Black wires and the engine did not start, but my headlights turned off (they came back on once I recycled the ignition key from Off to Run). I then tried shorting the Yellow and Black wires with the same result. When I shorted the Pink and Yellow wires together, the engine started! This means using a non-illuminated 2-wire Momentarily ON switch should work and start the engine if you connect the Pink and Yellow wires from the connector to the 2 connectors on the switch............

    SO HELPFUL THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • It worked great for me, although I did need to press the button quite often on the fob.

    This is a great option and I put my switch on the steering column in front of the keyed ignition. Pressing and holding the fob button for 5 seconds switches it from manual mode where you have to press the button each time to auto mode where the ignition automatically senses it when you get into range. Goats_Hogs I noticed when I keep the fob in my pants pocket, it often switches itself over to manual. When I put it in a jacket pocket it doesn't do it very often.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, it's The Show!8)