I changed the way I drive. I decided since you have to pull the motor to change the clutch.....I stopped using the clutch/motor (downshifting) to slow the slingshot down. It’s way easier to change the brake shoes.....than the clutch. So that conversation proved very informative to me. Thanks.
After the clutch replacement conversation...
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IMHO, that's not going to have any noticeable wear difference. Clutch wear is 90% on the initial take off and the remaining 10% when up shifting if you have less than perfect driving skills
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You can eliminate 100% of the clutch wear by leaving in the driveway. The tires will last longer too
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No matter the percent of how the wear is caused.....if I can eliminate as much as possible it’s a good thing. Brakes are cheap.... clutch jobs $$$$$$
Yep, you should park it.
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You can eliminate 100% of the clutch wear by leaving in the driveway. The tires will last longer too
I finally figured out why they keep you here......you’re the smartest guy on the planet...
I could never have thought of that...
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That's only because I know EVERYTHING. I know what I know, and I know what I don't know - therefore I know everything
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A particularly good reason to avoid engine braking is that the rods are under greatest stress (tension) when braking, especially at higher RPMs. To offset additional loading on the brakes, you can use cooling deflectors:
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They are obviously front biased, double the tire
plus most of the weight is there.I have never seen any data about the bias.
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A particularly good reason to avoid engine braking is that the rods are under greatest stress (tension) when braking, especially at higher RPMs. To offset additional loading on the brakes, you can use cooling deflectors:
All the more reason to wear out the brake pads instead of the clutch pads...
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Being new here I have to ask, does the clutch wear out faster than on a regular car and standard trans? (I thought this was a standard trans and clutch). I am not trying to be a smart.... just curious. I have driven standards all my life and never thought to worry about down shifting... Interesting thread...
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In short, no. The engine and trans are “standard” equipment off of standard automobiles. I find it difficult to believe that using the engine to decelerate in a “normal” fashion would cause engine failure. Downshifting from 4th to 2nd could well result in over speed and damage. 4th to 3rd, doubtful. The Ecotec is a well proven, tough motor as is the tranny.
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Being new here I have to ask, does the clutch wear out faster than on a regular car and standard trans? (I thought this was a standard trans and clutch). I am not trying to be a smart.... just curious. I have driven standards all my life and never thought to worry about down shifting... Interesting thread...
My reasoning has to do with how you have to change the clutch. In most cars you don’t have to pull the motor.....as in the SS?...I can change brake pads every week. A few bolts to change a pad or pull the motor...,not much choice..
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Perspective.... Yes most cars only require the tranny to be dropped but that does not mean it's easier than pulling the SlingShot engine/tran combo. With the ability to easily remove obstructions and components it would actually be an easier change out in my mind.
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Once you pull it (engine and transmission assemblies), you can replace it with an automatic transmission so we can all discuss the transmission fluid change intervals. That would another week or two of my life that I'll NEVER be able to recover
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If you are downshifting properly there should be little to no extra wear on clutch frictions. As stated before 4th to 2nd may cause some extra wear, but I would not call that proper downshifting. To downshift properly the engine speed should be matched to the speed of the clutch disc. That is to say when your up shifting you allow the engine to slow down to match speed of the disc, or you would have a jerky shift. Same as downshifting, you need to increase the engine speed to the disc speed to allow for a smooth engagement. Many big rig drivers use a process know as "floating gears", that is to say that once the rig is rolling the gears are changed without the use of the clutch at all. In big transmissions the gear are much bigger and a lot coarser then in little transmissions, floating gears in our slingshot transmissions is nearly impossible and would cause excess wear on the synchro rings. It is not advised.
All that to say this, if you have mastered the up shift, with very little practice you can master the down shift. And you can do it without worry of wearing the frictions on the disc prematurely.
If you have done much curve cutting driving you have figured out that you want to be in you curve exit gear when entering the curve. It is extremely difficult the enter the corner on the brakes shift down while in the corner under braking to get to you curve exit gear. You should be on throttle in the corner, not on the brakes.
Oh crap just downshift you will not wear out your clutch disc any faster than up shifting.
LC
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[quote='LargeCar','https://slingshotinfo.com/index.php?thread/8111-after-the-clutch-replacement-conversation/&postID=277494#post277494']
If you are downshifting properly there should be little to no extra wear on clutch frictions. As stated before 4th to 2nd may cause some extra wear, but I would not call that proper downshifting. To downshift properly the engine speed should be matched to the speed of the clutch disc. That is to say when your up shifting you allow the engine to slow down to match speed of the disc, or you would have a jerky shift. Same as downshifting, you need to increase the engine speed to the disc speed to allow for a smooth engagement. Many big rig drivers use a process know as "floating gears", that is to say that once the rig is rolling the gears are changed without the use of the clutch at all. In big transmissions the gear are much bigger and a lot coarser then in little transmissions, floating gears in our slingshot transmissions is nearly impossible and would cause excess wear on the synchro rings. It is not advised.
All that to say this, if you have mastered the up shift, with very little practice you can master the down shift. And you can do it without worry of wearing the frictions on the disc prematurely.
If you have done much curve cutting driving you have figured out that you want to be in you curve exit gear when entering the curve. It is extremely difficult the enter the corner on the brakes shift down while in the corner under braking to get to you curve exit gear. You should be on throttle in the corner, not on the brakes.
Oh crap just downshift you will not wear out your clutch disc any faster than up shifting.
LC
[/quote]Agree, be in your exit gear before entering the corner. Down shifting in the curve is a recipe for rear end breakaway and a trip into the tulles, backward.
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I am sure someone above probably has said this already.
The clutch setup is the same as the clutch in the Pontiac Solstice. So if it lasts 150000 miles in a 3600 pound solstice it should last forever in a vehicle that is 1800 pounds. However it will not take 350hp or more. It will slip in 4th and 5th. I remember posting that on the dark side and everyone thought I had lost my mind. But it wasn't long after that post that others found out I wasnt wrong. It will slip when you cross that 300 to 350hp level.
Only replacement info I will give yall is this..... dont get a clutch plate with metallic pads on both sides of the clutch disk. It's not needed. You will spend more time trying to release it "easy" than anything else. It's ok to have one side metallic and one side fibers. Combine that disk and a good pressure plate and you will be a happy camper.
