MOBILE 1 OR ROYAL PURPLE

    I posted "elsewhere" a while ago, but I thought new members might gain a bit of knowledge from it....


    APRIL 23, 2015


    MOBILE 1 OR ROYAL PURPLE
    So... I read an old thread about changing the angle drive oil. The manual says to change at 50k miles, but I was wondering what the final results were on changing sooner. I figured most of you that have changed the oil would have had enough time and miles in to give a solid review on your findings.
    Also, what oil did you use...Mobile 1 or Royal Purple?


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    Ok, so at 2332 miles, I just changed the drive oil to MOBILE 1. There was about 1/8" of sludge and shavings on the magnet on the drain plug. The oil was also pretty dark. After changing the oil and going for a decent drive, the "chatter" from the rear of the vehicle was, IMHO, DRASTICALLY QUIETER!
    I do not see how the factory oil can last 50k miles...maybe it's just a scam for polaris to sell more angle drives after they fail after the 2 year warranty. ???





    I was surprised how dirty the stock oil was after only 2300 miles!
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    This was on the original drive. At 10k miles the dealership changed it for a new drive. One dealership thought I had a bad drive, but it was only a REALLY bad bearing. I called my dealership freaking out cuz I thought I had a bad drive. This was right before the Slingfest Cup Track Day and Panama City last October. Even though It was just a bad bearing, my dealership went ahead and changed the drive. I still have the factory oil in this one but at 10k miles on this drive. This one never made the whinning noises like the first one did. Regardless, I plan on changing the oil to Mobile 1 before Maggie Valley.


    Here is how bad the bearing was....




    I have heard that because of the gear design in the drive that it is better to not change out the oil before hand and go with the manufacturers recommendation. I'm not sure how long a sufficient break in period should be but it will kill me to not change it for 50k miles.

    I had the same junk as Kenny when Jim at Metricks drained and filled with the Royal Purple I supplied last year around 5000 miles. Interesting thing I found out just yesterday when talking to a tech rep from Royal Purple-he gave me the OK to try the 140 weight since I remembered the crap from the first change and want to see if the heavier stuff will quiet it down even more. Funny thing is that when I decided to go ahead and try RP in the tranny too there was no weight listed for it in my manual. While we were on the phone the RP guy went online and found it on the online manual. My vin is 0262, one of the early ones and it would seem even the owners manual is a work in progress. Can someone verify if their manual lists the spec for the trans?
    Anyway, I have used RP motor oil in the sling, in my little Mokai jet boat with a 7 hp Subaru, and my tractor and am very pleased with the product. No complaints with Mobil 1 which I have used in the past.

    The way it was explained to me was that because of the way the gears are cut they need the sludge to wear in properly. I wouldn't think a company would design a gearbox that way but they do recommend a 50k service and there seems to be many reports on the forums of other issues or leaks with it. We may be the cause of our own misery. Sorry to derail the thread. Should I delete my responses and maybe start a new one on just my question?

    @airoutlaw changed the angle drive oil at around 4,800 miles..


    The screw cap (?) Was covered in metal shavings. In fact, i thought it was a silver metal cap until he wiped it clean. I am not mechanically inclined.... but I am pretty sure those shavings are bad news for gears, and moving parts.
    He put royal purple back in... hooked a fuel line tube to the spout of the oil bottle, and turned it upside down... he held it into the fill hole, and i squeezed the bottle until me wittle ol hands cramped up. :/ Being the hero he is, he took a c-clamp and put that around the bottle for me to tighten and finish the squeeze job. That royal is some THICK Liquid.


    I just reread this post.... I suppose its obvious Im not mechanically inclined by the choice of words used... at least I didnt say "thingamabob", or "dohicky" :|

    All statements, posts, and general discussions made on this forum by me purposely reflect my opinions and personal experiences. 8)

    Quote from bubba

    The way it was explained to me was that because of the way the gears are cut they need the sludge to wear in properly. I wouldn't think a company would design a gearbox that way but they do recommend a 50k service but there seems to be many reports on the forums of other issues or leaks with it. We may be the cause of our own misery. Sorry to derail the thread. Should I delete my responses and maybe start a new one on just my question?

    No...you are good here. :thumbsup:

    Quote from Guardian_Angel

    @airoutlaw changed the angle drive oil at around 4,800 miles..


    The screw cap (?) Was covered in metal shavings. In fact, i thought it was a silver metal cap until he wiped it clean. I am not mechanically inclined.... but I am pretty sure those shavings are bad news for gears, and moving parts.
    He put royal purple back in... hooked a fuel line tube to the spout of the oil bottle, and turned it upside down... he held it into the fill hole, and i squeezed the bottle until me wittle ol hands cramped up. :/ Being the hero he is, he took a c-clamp and put that around the bottle for me to tighten and finish the squeeze job. That royal is some THICK Liquid.


    I just reread this post.... I suppose its obvious Im not mechanically inclined by the choice of words used... at least I didnt say "thingamabob", or "dohicky" :|

    Clarification on her post... the magnetic drain plug was covered in what i would call graphite metal deposit. No real substance of metal shavings.


    As for the "C-clamp", it was the better option than cutting a hole in the bottle knowing there was gonna be some remaining fluid. ;(

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Quote from bubba

    I have heard that because of the gear design in the drive that it is better to not change out the oil before hand and go with the manufacturers recommendation. I'm not sure how long a sufficient break in period should be but it will kill me to not change it for 50k miles.

    Nothing but an engineering excuse...poor alignment on the gears is causing the wear and noise. As the gears wear in the noise should decrease hence their opinion to let it wear faster. Look at it this way..having clean gear oil in there is NOT going to cause any issues other than maybe letting it be a bit noisier for a little longer. Conversely, oil that has reached it's peak deposit point will cause excessive wear.
    The whines we hear are reminiscent of hot rodders who would swap out to larger ratio ring and pinions and not track (align) them properly. They would use a powder and look for an even wear line. If you got it right, nice and quiet with minimal wear, if you didn't, it whined at certain speeds and would dirty up the oil quickly.

    I am using Redline MT-90 for the trans. It's a 75W90 weight.


    http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46


    There seems to be lots of questions because of the GL-3 recommendation by Polaris. I called and talked to them. It was eye opening.


    • Recommended for GL-1, GL-3, and GL-4 applications, as well as where most special synchromesh fluids are specified

    1,3,4 GL applications can use the same fluids to a point. It's when you jump to GL-5 or a product you can use GL-5 in because it contains reactive sulfers


    • Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage
    • Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for proper synchro engagement)


    • Eliminates notchy shifting, even when cold


    For the angle drive I am going to use Mobile 1

    I changed mine to RP at 250 miles and then flushed and filled with RP at 500. It was cleaner each time. My rear drive has quieted a ton. But I think with time they all do. I have 4000 miles on mine. Getting ready to change rear drive again.

    I received a free case of this. Going into the Mini and I am thinking about the SS for its first change. eni is the new name for Agip.
    i-Sint XL 4AM is their top of the line oil.


    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    Quote from Ruptured Duck

    I received a free case of this. Going into the Mini and I am thinking about the SS for its first change. eni is the new name for Agip.
    i-Sint XL 4AM is their top of the line oil.

    Free is a very good price.


    Is it dexos1 approved? If it's not, Polaris may get pissy if you need warranty work.

    Quote from BlackDeath

    I just came across this write up and this looked like the place to post it. I did my research and started to use Amsoil for my Transmission and Angle Drive and it sure made it a lot quieter. I might have to try the oil now..


    Leading the Field in Deposit Protection

    Good read buddy


    Hope all is well - haven't talk to you much lately


    Thanks

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    The more I love my Dog!