cruise? brake?

    I had the dealer tighten it up because it wouldn't hold the bike....about 3weeks later I had the wheels removed to have metal valve stems installed at my tire shop...when I got home that day the e brake didn't work again...it will not hold the bike and it's pulled all the way up....there is no resistance when pulling it up.....just like before the dealer fixed it...


    There are adjustment nuts under the e brake handle that take out the cable slack...can you adjust them from on top or do you have to get under the bike to reach them?


    As per the service manual...2 clicks the dash e brake light should come on, 8 clicks the wheel should not move if turned by hand...I'm assuming that's jacked up...and 10 clicks the bike should not roll...

    Quote from Bigdog

    I had the dealer tighten it up because it wouldn't hold the bike....about 3weeks later I had the wheels removed to have metal valve stems installed at my tire shop...when I got home that day the e brake didn't work again...it will not hold the bike and it's pulled all the way up....there is no resistance when pulling it up.....just like before the dealer fixed it...


    There are adjustment nuts under the e brake handle that take out the cable slack...can you adjust them from on top or do you have to get under the bike to reach them?


    As per the service manual...2 clicks the dash e brake light should come on, 8 clicks the wheel should not move if turned by hand...I'm assuming that's jacked up...and 10 clicks the bike should not roll...

    Interesting - it doesnt how many clicks I pull the e break the light on the dash never comes on

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    You have to adjust the e brake cable from below. I powdercoated my calipers this winter, and after re-assembling the calipers my e brake doesn't work very well. I've been adjusting the cable tension to see if it helps, and so far a no-go. I probably mucked something up in the rear caliper. It's such a PITA tearing the rear on apart, I may just go with no e brake.

    Quote from Solow

    You have to adjust the e brake cable from below. I powdercoated my calipers this winter, and after re-assembling the calipers my e brake doesn't work very well. I've been adjusting the cable tension to see if it helps, and so far a no-go. I probably mucked something up in the rear caliper. It's such a PITA tearing the rear on apart, I may just go with no e brake.

    I had my calipers powdercoated winter before last. When they reassembled the rear caliper they bent a clip for the ebrake. It would work once or twice and them pop loose and not engage. Unfortunately caliper parts are not available. I was able to locate a rear brake caliper from someone who put on big brakes and I took that to a local brake shop that specializes in rebuilds. They swapped out the parts and it has worked fine ever since.

    Well, you can get caliper parts, I did. When I took the caliper apart to powder coat it, a snap ring inside was broken. I'm sure I broke it somehow, anyways, the only way to get that one frickn snap ring is to buy a kit through Polaris. It's called the ball lift, or something like that. That snap ring cost $85!!. And actually, that's only half the parts in the rear caliper. Needless to say, I treated that snap ring like it was made of gold when I reinstalled it. So who knows? Maybe it did break, or any number of things could have happened. It doesn't affect the regular brakes performance at all.

    Quote from Bigdog

    When pulling up My brake it was tight and then suddenly it popped with the upward travel jumping loose several inches. Now it doesn't work. So what would cause it to be good and then suddenly jump totally out of adjustment?

    Bruddah you may not know your own strength cause you done broke it LOL

    Thanks Tripod. I will have it fixed when I go in for service. at only 3 months and 4000 miles it is still very much under warranty. Heck when we got it my wife insisted that we even get the extended warranty so it will be a long time before I have to worry much about such things

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    Quote from Bigdog

    Changing the switch doesn't answer the dirt problem....


    Has Polaris changed the sensors on every failure light problem?


    Gotta chime in here ........ simply because you run the risk of confusing others with tangental posts ......


    Some advise...... PLEASE read ALL replies in their entirety before responding or posting follow up questions and get yourself a service manual so you can gain at least a basic understanding of the sytems you are attempting discuss ...


    You are conflating the multiple sensors and switches in the Slingshot braking system .....


    So far the master cylinder pressure switches, magnetic brake light activation switch, master cylinder fluid level sensors, and parking brake activation alert switch have all been discusssed ... they are completely seperate with different failures and remedies ...... your reply quoted above has nothing to do with the original post it relates to ......


    .......... confused-squared


    .

    :REDSS: The ghost of SLingshot past ......

    I'm trying to figure out exactly how many recalls or should be recalls there are and how many Polaris is admitting to. Are they only saying the sensors are causing the only problem? It's seems Iike the entire braking system is a major problem. Having a brake problem in the woods is one thing but having them at 70 miles an hour in traffic is very different.


    How can there be so many different faulty parts involving one major system? And still no definitive answer. Fixing the problem once hasn't seemed to work for very many of us. The repair parts many times are faulty too.


    And now There is obviously an emergency brake problem.

    Quote from Bigdog

    I'm trying to figure out exactly how many recalls or should be recalls there are and how many Polaris is admitting to. Are they only saying the sensors are causing the only problem? It's seems Iike the entire braking system is a major problem. Having a brake problem in the woods is one thing but having them at 70 miles an hour in traffic is very different.


    How can there be so many different faulty parts involving one major system? And still no definitive answer. Fixing the problem once hasn't seemed to work for very many of us. The repair parts many times are faulty too.


    And now There is obviously an emergency brake problem.


    .... slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/51926/



    ....... learned my lesson .........


    ..... slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/51927/


    .

    :REDSS: The ghost of SLingshot past ......

    Are people with new 2017s having the same brake issues?


    I don't have time to spend waiting for dealers to try this and change that and we can't make the light come and it it's not throwing a code. And over a month now I'm still waiting for the dealer to tell me the back ordered parts are in. And even then am I guaranteed the problem is fixed?

    Ok I'm trying to adjust the e brake cable. First of all the manual says to park it level Then loosen the nut holding the cable with the big spring on it. I loosened the nut but it won't rest on the stop pin like it's supposed to Now I have to get under it to reach the adjustment nuts. So if I jack it up to do this the swing arm will move. Will that screw me up with this adjustment procedure and if I jack it up do you have to have the entire bike off the ground level? And what about the swing arm?

    Unless you're super skinny, you'll have to jack it up. What I did was try to gauge how much slack needed to be removed, based on how much space was between the rest pin and the e brake actuator, and remove the same amount of slack underneath. Kind of a pain to do, but you get pretty good at jacking it up, lol. There probably is an easier way to do it. But without an actual lift, It's just going to be trial and error. Plus a good amount of patience.

    Thank's @Orangeman that needed to be said.