Engine dies while running down the road

    The wires may just be to light in this case regardless of what the recommendations are, the mistake was made before. If there is a chafed wire in the circuit upstream somewhere the conductor leading back to the 50 amp fuse and its holder needs to be able to carry the current to blow the fuse. On a short circuit the conductor most likely would carry the current and blow the fuse, but on leakage current such as a chafed wire it stays below the threshold of blowing the fuse and heats the conductor and its circuit components. This heating reduces the current so the fuse will not drop, the cycle continues, more heat, less current until a meltdown occurs. A large enough wire would be able to carry the same current for an indefinite period of time without the heating until it becomes an overload to blow the fuse.


    This seems to be a common scenario with chassis wiring, fuses are more for short circuit protection rather than overload protection. Thank your stars that is not the way your house is wired.

    painter is absolutely right the spade is just to small to carry the load the fuse is rated to. I don't know if 10 amp is a real number but it didn't pop the 50amp fuse and didn't burn the 30 amp wire but it did melt the connector. so some where less than 30. slingrider to replace the harness the complete bike has to come apart any thing less is just a patch. may work but? your ECU is now full of crazy codes. most dealing with lack of can/buss data. the ECU kept running but had no input.

    Well, Just got a call from the dealer.
    Polaris is saying this is my fault somehow. Since I have a different battery I must have pushed the wires together and caused this to short. Dealer is trying to follow up, but this is a bunch of crap. Still does not explain why the fuse did not blow.


    New Harness is $1300. Guess it is time to find a more reliable ride. If Polaris won't stand behind their product then I can't risk driving it.


    No way I pinched the wires and if I did, why did the fuse not go.


    @Ted Nelson gave me his dealer info so I can at least get the two dealer talking. My first true disappointment with Polaris and the slingshot.

    Proud Member of SOG!!!!!!!

    2015 SL (Yellow) Traded becuase it kept melting

    2018 SLR LE with DDM SuperCharger!!! I guess the gray ones are faster...

    Edited once, last by SlingRider ().

    That's straight bullshit Jim! Where did you take it to get it looked at. How did changing the battery get water in the water proof case?

    Can you fix the problem by replacing the fuse box? It's only $32


    Polaris is no different than any other business....they are going to try to weasel out of paying for everything....I'm guessing the new battery isn't a Polaris battery...


    So are they using the old ...you didn't use an original equipment replacement part so you voided your warranty?

    I would call Polaris and complain. Have read on here of people doing that and then them changing their minds and then allowing the warranty to cover the issue.

    Latest update!!


    Something is amiss with my SS. We replaced the Jcase with 3 inline fuses and all seemed great. 20 minutes in lost all lights, etc. good part I was only a short distance from the dealer. Went back and he undid the half roll of electrical tape we used to make sure it was water proof. Fuse housing melted around the fuse and the fuse was fine.


    So dealer will start trace tomorrow to find the issue. Got to be some resistance somewhere

    Proud Member of SOG!!!!!!!

    2015 SL (Yellow) Traded becuase it kept melting

    2018 SLR LE with DDM SuperCharger!!! I guess the gray ones are faster...

    Well Polaris said d that my extended warranty was void so I am out of pocket. I did joke with @Painter that our dealer has an Icon yellow on order. You all might see me in that instead of my current ride!!

    Proud Member of SOG!!!!!!!

    2015 SL (Yellow) Traded becuase it kept melting

    2018 SLR LE with DDM SuperCharger!!! I guess the gray ones are faster...

    Quote from KayTwo

    Puff, puff, pass, dude. You are higher than a kite if you think Polaris will replace a whole machine for that.

    Well... If it was still under warranty and some crazy electrical crap was happening they couldn't figure out... Then it sounds like some @Ruptured Duck history stuff... :huh:


    There's been 2 here to get new Slings... Where there's a will, and skill, there's a way... ;)


    But yeah, pass that shiiiii.....

    Quote from SlingRider

    Well Polaris said d that my extended warranty was void so I am out of pocket. I did joke with @Painter that our dealer has an Icon yellow on order. You all might see me in that instead of my current ride!!

    Having that melt down again might be a blessing. If they can trace the area creating the high resistance then it my be proof you didn't void the warranty by installing an after market battery.

    I have owned at least thirty optima's and have installed probably over two hundred and I've never seen one melt a battery connection like that. I had four red top optima's in my jeep.

    I agree@bjk81 a 12 volt battery supply isn't the problem(unless of course you have two mistakenly hooked up in series, lol ) an alternator on the other hand can cause over amping problems, but that's almost always protected at the fuses, my bet is its going to come down to chassis chaffing as @mniron so thoroughly tried to explain earlier, or corrosion in a harness plug or box caused by water damage which can have the same impact . Good luck @SlingRider at least as long as theyre looking , they should eventually find the problem , However the point of this post is, if they cannot there are automotive wirng shops that specialize in electrical issues , not your typical dealerships. Whenever in the automotive collision industry, there is an electrical issue due to collision pinching or chaffing or flood damage , its always these specialist that we end up going to, to eventually find the problem , your typical GM dealership etc mechanics just don't specialize in bad grounds, resistance, etc enough to quickly be able to locate the problem and to think that a Polaris dealership has that kind of expertise amongst their small engine mechanics might just be wishfull thinking , sorry not trying to be the bearer of bad news just trying to explain the automotive industry does have wiring specialist shops that solve these kinds of problems everyday irregardless of brand , a 12 volt system is a 12 volt system, not a Polaris system or a GM system or a Ford system. You might want to source one out in your area or discuss this avenue with your dealer, he may even agree an automotive electrical mechanic may be your best bet , if the trouble persists. Been there done, that no less than a dozen times and always after having spent countless hours beating our heads against the wall do we breakdown and source it out to an electrical automotive shop only to say damn , should have learned this the first dozen times.