Posts by mniron

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    The FSX is above the frame, the frame would definitely be hitting bottom before the exhaust tips. They are very well made with a great tone. Welter has continued to make improvements to the FSX and has even better sound today. Compared on other side exit systems I highly recommend the Welter FSX.

    Here is some pictures of when I posted “Mniron True Floorboard Vents” on the “other side” back in May 2015. I know you can still do this same install today for a reasonable price, $30-$40. I cannot find the same vents I used but the ones I did find are the same size.

    I have been losing weight consistantly for the past few years, so I'm already working that angle. I'm thinking wheels and tires would be a good start. The rotars on my sling are absolutely massive at 12.1 inches. So that might be an option, but an expensive one.

    Reducing the rotational mass has huge benefits over just reducing weight. People who have installed lightweight flywheels and clutches already know this. Your big brake kit has benefits but definitely add weight, the BBK also limits what you are able to do in wheel sizes, but you should be able to get to 18” wheels which is a popular size for light weight alloy wheels. Lightweight wheels come with a healthy price tag. Depending on the wheels you already have you can save 10-15 pounds per wheel with even more with smaller tires. Pay close attention to the wheel/tire combination and the look you want to decide width of tires and wheels. With lighter rotational mass the BBK does less work also. Another benefit of reducing the wheel/tire/rotor weights is unsprung weight. Unsprung is more controversial when it come to its benefits, but your conversion kit uses it by having the rotors mounted by the differential. Reducing unsprung weight definitely reduces how hard the suspension system needs to work.

    SLR brake rotors, lightweight wheels(SLR Wheels are light and reasonably priced used), smaller tires can save a lot of weight, smaller battery, unneeded plastics, mirrors, lighter weight steering wheel, remove any accessories that are just for looks and then start replacing stock bolts with titanium bolts. Newer Roll Hoops are lighter than the early ones, have not checked the weight of Assault Hoops, Assault Hoops you lose some plastics also.


    Rotors, wheels and tires with save a lot of weight without drastically changing the overall appearance.

    @studiopeg there are several things that cause hoods not to latch properly, the most common problem is the latch timing and cable tension on the latches. If there is tension on the cables the latch cannot fully latch and will “pop” right back up or open after you think it is closed. From the picture you posted above it looks like the hood “may” be a little forward, it also looks like damage that can occur from worn out hinges. If after you have the dealer work done and you have any problems feel free to get in touch with me.

    Mine did the same, I removed the boot, poured some Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer on top of the ball without removing. Shift through the gears working the oil down in the mechanism until it shifts easier. This will lubricate the entire shifting mechanism. The excess oil ends up in the transmission which is capable with the transmission oil.

    No, you should inspect the rotors and pads for unusual wear. Which Hawk pads did you install, very aggressive pads are more likely to make noise and would not recommend them for street use. Another possible reason they are noisy may be that they were not properly broke in.

    Had @JeffWelter add a few braces on his long tube header so it would withstand the extra boost from the Alpha Supercharger. Not sure if it will add any more HP but it looks great.



    The bracing didn’t add any additional horsepower but the header definitely made a difference on my supercharger unit. Boost comes on about 250 rpms sooner and is steady rather than erratic as it builds boost. Also seems to pull harder than before.

    If they reef on it hard enough, they can break components, but the average tug will fail to open it if the buttons are engaged.
    Someone on this forum had the buttons/hood damaged when the dealership didn't follow directions and forced the hood open without releasing the buttons. Don't remember who.

    If I remember correctly it was @MACAWS, the pins were bent and needed replacement. The pins also were the smaller first version, today’s pins are more rugged. But @KayTwo is correct, force something enough and something has to give.

    What happens if you have the @mniron hood pins and someone decides to open your hood when you are not around? Will this prevent the hood from being opened or will it damage the hood?

    If the Fender Buttons are not released, you are unable to open the hood. The Fender Buttons will not damage the hood but if enough force is applied something has to give. My guess is the hood above the latch release handle might crack like early models did when hoods were not opened properly.