Aftermarket Shocks

    Quote from Oomp

    My 1st ride of the year, I started with my shock settings at 0, and it was super soft and comfortable. However, I was dipping my splitter into the road on certain turns. Also, on hard braking, the rear end was lifting up. Under hard acceleration the rear end was hopping like a pogo stick.


    Every ride, I turned them up one click (rebound only). When I got to 4, and went for a ride, it handled great. No dipping the splitter, and the rear end stays more level under hard braking. I rode out to a RC airport near me, got out, and upped the setting to 5. The parking lot was gravel, and when I was pulling out, I could tell right away that I didn't like it. The ride home was rougher, and I had hood rattles and such. But, I did take a really twisty road, and it handled awesome.


    My shocks are only rebound adjustable. I see my shocks as a way to help control body movement, and in turn keep the wheels in contact with the ground.

    I started out the same way and can tell you the sway bar change helped more than stiffening the shocks and you can back off the shocks to your desired settings.

    Quote from Oomp

    My 1st ride of the year, I started with my shock settings at 0, and it was super soft and comfortable. However, I was dipping my splitter into the road on certain turns. Also, on hard braking, the rear end was lifting up. Under hard acceleration the rear end was hopping like a pogo stick.


    Every ride, I turned them up one click (rebound only). When I got to 4, and went for a ride, it handled great. No dipping the splitter, and the rear end stays more level under hard braking. I rode out to a RC airport near me, got out, and upped the setting to 5. The parking lot was gravel, and when I was pulling out, I could tell right away that I didn't like it. The ride home was rougher, and I had hood rattles and such. But, I did take a really twisty road, and it handled awesome.


    My shocks are only rebound adjustable. I see my shocks as a way to help control body movement, and in turn keep the wheels in contact with the ground.

    I would be curious at what the approximate comparative setting the compression is with rebound only adjustable shocks? With our QA1s w/250# springs on the front and 350# spring on the rear we have settled in on 2C/6R on the front and 1C/4R on the rear as our happy place.


    Bill

    DER, I thought the same thing when I installed my DDMWorks sway bar. I set the sway bar to the stiffest setting, and turned down my shock settings. It's not a 1 for 1 type of adjustment though. I had to turn my shocks back up until I got the performance I wanted.


    Even at the stiffest setting on the sway bar, and my shocks set to 2, I was dipping my splitter into the ground, on a turn I take every day on my way to work. My slingshot is not lowered, so dipping the splitter and scrapping the bolts is too soft for me. I turned my shocks back up to 4, and now I have predictable handling. No dipping, no hopping. Since then, I set my sway bar at the softest setting.

    Quote from Oomp

    DER, I thought the same thing when I installed my DDMWorks sway bar. I set the sway bar to the stiffest setting, and turned down my shock settings. It's not a 1 for 1 type of adjustment though. I had to turn my shocks back up until I got the performance I wanted.


    Even at the stiffest setting on the sway bar, and my shocks set to 2, I was dipping my splitter into the ground, on a turn I take every day on my way to work. My slingshot is not lowered, so dipping the splitter and scrapping the bolts is too soft for me. I turned my shocks back up to 4, and now I have predictable handling. No dipping, no hopping. Since then, I set my sway bar at the softest setting.

    I’m not sure you have the sway bar adjusted correctly ....my front end never dipped that much...even before I upgraded my shocks.....my upgraded sway bar has 4 holes and I’m on the second one from the bend in the bar. Do you have adjustable sway bar links?

    Quote from Bigdog

    I’m not sure you have the sway bar adjusted correctly ....my front end never dipped that much...even before I upgraded my shocks.....my upgraded sway bar has 4 holes and I’m on the second one from the bend in the bar. Do you have adjustable sway bar links?

    Well Mr. Dog, the reason YOUR front end never dives down is easily correctable. YOU HAVE TO GO FAST ENOUGH. Try it and you MAY even learn to enjoy the ride of what a Slingshot can REALLY provide

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

    I simply slowed the extension of the inside wheel by adjusting the rebound setting on the shock. This helped keep the vehicle (and the body) more level, and led to less dipping.


    There are no magic settings, or we would all be at the same settings, and in turn there would be no need for adjustments.

    Ever since I installed my DDMworks sway bar, it has bugged me that it wants to shift to the passenger side, and the bar stop on the driver side is up against the side of the poly bushing. It moves free enough that I pull it centered when I see it shifted over. After every ride, I check it out, and it is shifted over.


    This evening, I had someone sit in my drivers seat (holding some weights to match my weight), while I adjusted the length of the passenger side end link. By doing this, I eliminated the pre-load on the bar. I also moved the links to the stiffest setting. I went for a spirited ride after work, and it handles so much better now. Feels less floaty, and more predictable. Even at slow speeds, you can tell that hard lefts and hard rights have the same feel. I feel like I am ready for some autocross.


    I ride solo 99% of the time, so eliminating this pre-load was a non issue or me. I don't drive hard with passengers in the vehicle, so even though there will be pre-load again if there is a passenger, it shouldn't be an issue.

    Quote from Oomp

    Ever since I installed my DDMworks sway bar, it has bugged me that it wants to shift to the passenger side, and the bar stop on the driver side is up against the side of the poly bushing. It moves free enough that I pull it centered when I see it shifted over. After every ride, I check it out, and it is shifted over.


    This evening, I had someone sit in my drivers seat (holding some weights to match my weight), while I adjusted the length of the passenger side end link. By doing this, I eliminated the pre-load on the bar. I also moved the links to the stiffest setting. I went for a spirited ride after work, and it handles so much better now. Feels less floaty, and more predictable. Even at slow speeds, you can tell that hard lefts and hard rights have the same feel. I feel like I am ready for some autocross.


    I ride solo 99% of the time, so eliminating this pre-load was a non issue or me. I don't drive hard with passengers in the vehicle, so even though there will be pre-load again if there is a passenger, it shouldn't be an issue.

    Good info.


    Sway bar collars/locks is a good idea.


    Road crowning/rain slope creates a normal left side high, right side low aspect on a vehicle, the reason you have to keep a slight left side pull on the steering wheel to maintain a straight line down the road.


    Funny thing is when you find yourself on a flat road...

    Zagging from painted line to painted line and wondering...

    What the hell is wrong with my vehicle?

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Quote from wjfyfe

    I do not believe our 2015 has collar locks on the sway bar so I am wondering what conditions are required to make the sway bar shift enough to cause damage?


    Bill

    you may want to check to see if you have them - the 2015 year is the only year where they show the locks on the parts list - I do not know if every 2015 came with them, but I am pretty sure that many did.


    If you don't have them they are easy to get aftermarket - I got these 32mm sway bar lateral locks


    as to your question I have no idea exactly what kind of event would push the sway bar hard enough to cause damage, but I have seen some here with bent end links from having the bar move - I finally figured I would rather spend the $20 than wait and find out the hard way

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    Okey - showing my learning curve here so be patient. Not sure I understand how the whole sway bar thing works.The stock bar is I believe hollow and the aftermarket one is solid. The solid one is much heavier and stout BUT it hooks into these small little rods to the wishbone so how does adding all that weight to the front end help? And with it tying into the small adjusters that are flexible / moveable where is the stability or improved handling come in? The mechanics / science on this escapes me.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Quote from SoCal

    Okey - showing my learning curve here so be patient. Not sure I understand how the whole sway bar thing works.The stock bar is I believe hollow and the aftermarket one is solid. The solid one is much heavier and stout BUT it hooks into these small little rods to the wishbone so how does adding all that weight to the front end help? And with it tying into the small adjusters that are flexible / moveable where is the stability or improved handling come in? The mechanics / science on this escapes me.

    DDM bar is hollow like the oem bar, but thicker walled and therefore stiffer, its the Twist bar like I have that is solid, Also the oem end links seem to have changed over the years, the links on my 2016 are thick and the same diameter for the entire length, the later ones I have seen neck down and get much thinner in the center than they are at the ends - these are the ones I have seen pictures of on here getting bent and damaged when the sway bar shifts - If my sling had these end links I would have changed them out when I got my sway bar


    as to how the sway bar works it acts as a lateral spring between the suspension on the right and left sides of the vehicle, this "spring" acts to try to hold the vehicle flat when the suspension on one side is compressed by using the sway bar to put pressure on the other side to compress it.


    as to your point about "small little rods" - I agree that the thinner oem end links on later slingshots would probably be a weak point if going with a really stiff sway bar and should definitely be upgraded at the same time


    As to the weight issue of a solid bar I dont think its an issue anymore than adding weight with any other mod, the actual weight of the bar itself is supported by the sway bar mounts attached to the frame, if there is any additional weight actually placed on the end links I suspect it is very minimal when compared to the other forces applied by the suspension moving - even with the stock bar


    I am not really an expert on this, but if you want more information I am sure Dave@DDMWorks can help

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    Edited once, last by Edward Neal ().

    Quote from Edward Neal

    you may want to check to see if you have them - the 2015 year is the only year where they show the locks on the parts list - I do not know if every 2015 came with them, but I am pretty sure that many did.

    Well, it appears that I have finally found something to whine about where there are no collar locks on our SlingShot. Upon closer examination I can see where the bar has moved approximately 1/4" over the miles and years. I'll check into the locks that you pointed out. I am assuming that I would just measure equally on either side for placement, correct?


    Bill

    Quote from wjfyfe

    Well, it appears that I have finally found something to whine about where there are no collar locks on our SlingShot. Upon closer examination I can see where the bar has moved approximately 1/4" over the miles and years. I'll check into the locks that you pointed out. I am assuming that I would just measure equally on either side for placement, correct?


    Bill

    yes - I just centered the sway bar using a rubber mallet to tap it and then I put the locks on each side of the sway bar mounts leaving a small gap



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    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    Quote from SoCal

    Okey - showing my learning curve here so be patient. Not sure I understand how the whole sway bar thing works.The stock bar is I believe hollow and the aftermarket one is solid. The solid one is much heavier and stout BUT it hooks into these small little rods to the wishbone so how does adding all that weight to the front end help? And with it tying into the small adjusters that are flexible / moveable where is the stability or improved handling come in? The mechanics / science on this escapes me.

    my sway bar is hollow it’s just a schedule 80 pipe instead of schedule 40 ...


    I personally think the sway bar upgrade did more for the front end cornering dip than the QA1 shocks.... but you can raise the front end with the shock coil overs... the sway bar was added with the factory shocks...it made a difference. I really didn’t notice much ride difference with the QA1s....over the factory shocks...