Posts by WingShot

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    Anything below 60 and I’m in the truck. You all can have the cold weather. I don’t enjoy it and I want to ride when I’m comfortable. I ride all winter in Florida.

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    You have a great outlook on life and should live it to your fullest.
    Having DDM so close is such a blessing when you step into the boosted world. I would go visit and drive both supercharged and turbo to see what you find is best fit for you. Dave has been very good to me and I come from the Alpha family and he is always willing to help.
    If you do in the end choose a turbo explore your choices and I haven’t dealt with Kyle and ZZP but would not hesitate in a second to have their equipment.
    Either of these guys can take care of your needs and you will be smiling fro ear to ear when your boosted. There is a lot of knowledge now since I boosted in 2015 and that is great for you to take advantage of it.
    Good Luck

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    I am a turbo guy at heart, there is so much fun in driving the boosted sling over stock. I will warn you that you will always want more. Lol. If you can do the 9psi over the 6psi I would highly recommend it. I like the idea of the switch to change boost.
    Dave or Kyle can get you on the right path as they can do this blind folded.

    1) I think both systems require oil lines adapted to your pan. So a self install should think of this, as you don’t want a drippy pan.
    2) Good gauges to keep an eye on A/F
    3) Turbos have a mated exhaust.

    With all that said the SC is an easy install and relatively less to worry about. They are also very fast and a consistent pull. I would drive either one. If you can turn wrenches the turbo may be ok. If you just want drive it, I would look hard at SC.
    Drive them both and listen close to Dave and Kyle, they won’t steer you wrong.

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    I have the original PRP seats in both of mine and they still feel good to me.
    This is a 3 yr old post and taken from a time when the second Gen seats came out and there was a lot of controversy at the time. Scott took time to clarify the seats as to all the confusion. I think most can see what’s going on here.

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    Anything that is 1/4 in o.d. will work. Even a couple of 1/4 inch drill bits but they are a little long. 3 1/2 to 4 inches work better when the shocks are installed. Do not forget to jack the Sling up for the wheel you are working on to take the load off and use 2 ea. 1/4 inch rods or drill bits, it makes it a lot easier without messing up the 1/4 inch holes in the shock adjusting ring.

    I used a phillips head screwdriver....Just cut off the head [blunt-it] ........Don't forget to remove the set pin [Allen] all the way and don't over tighten the pin you don't want to damage the rubber tip....

    For the price of the JIR's they should have included a spanner ...

    When i called Slingmods about that they said its not included ,And that they Slingmods doesn't even sell them..X(...

    Interesting... When we changed the spring out on my rear shock, we didn't have the spanner wrench and had to compress the spring using a rented tool from Autozone that scuffed up the rear spring a bit.

    Was hoping not to do that for the fronts so thought a spanner wrench would help.

    Dave@DDMWorks , is there a way to get a spanner wrench for jris? The one you included with my springs ended up being for the vikings or twist dynamic shocks. It matched chavey2 and wokka .


    Did you call JRI ?

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    The cheap oem adapters are very week and can break if you get into a race with someone and get excited and shift to hard. At least that’s what I’ve been told.

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