DDMWorks Built Engine for Rabtech

    Still living vicariously through the adventures of others, I only wish I was responsible enough to own a Turbo or Super Charged engine. I know me!! I would end up in the "cross-bar hotel" for sure. But DAMN, it sure is fun watching Rab and the others enjoying all that new-found power. Remember, "With great power, comes great responsibility!" Be safe and enjoy the ride!!!!!! :thumbsup:

    Quote from MACAWS

    Anyone looking for he next big leap in power - DDM has the answer.

    Seven months from now, my office will be 15 minutes from DDM....I will be starting the GoFundMe in the near future, and all you @$$holes who are putting these amazing stories and videos out will be expected to contribute....LOL


    AND I'm telling my wife it's all your fault....

    Yes. I had not even driven it till I unloaded it at Blairsville.. I am now at 12.2 PSI. I saw 12.5 once. I am going to add 2 more PSI this week and see how it runs. I just want to make sure it has plenty of fuel so it's safe. I am 98% sure it will be fine. At 12.2 pounds of boost it was dipping into the 10.5 and 11 AFR which is really rich. I think when I get to 14 PSI it will be dead on perfect.


    I think what surprised me is the sounds it now makes. It's a completely different exhaust tone. It has a lower much more pissed off sound. And now that the wastegate isn't having to open so early you get the jet turbine sound when you get into the gas..


    One last thing that happened that everyone noticed was the super quiet engine. Especially the top end of it.. There is no clicky or rattely noises coming from the engine. The stock engine always has a certain amount of clicking and ticking going on. This one doesn't even have that slight rattle when you first start it and there isn't oil at the top...

    The other item that I have to comment on is the flywheel and clutch. It took me some time to get used to. It engages right at the top of the pedal. And instead of having softer friction material all the way around the clutch disk you have what appears to be small "metallic brake pads" around it. When you let out on the clutch just be ready to GO. It doesn't have that soft easy "don't spill my drink" feel. You can ease out on it and slip it a little at a red light but if you try that in a parking lot it typically will shake you a bit.


    I have not fully figured the new clutch out but I'm getting better with it. The lighter flywheel seems to allow you to keep the RPM up easier and when you shut off the engine it stops immediately. I compared it to someone unplugging an electric motor. It doesn't have the heavy flywheel to keep it spinning so it just stops.


    Some of you may have noticed the check engine light on my dash. It was from the camshaft sensor wire being screwed up. I have apparently nicked it or done something I shouldn't have to it. Occasionally it will come on and it would have to flip the key off and on and it would be perfect for the next 50 or more miles. I was having to much fun to mess with it more than a few minutes the first day. And it's alot easier to find an exposed wire or a bent pin in an air conditioned shop.


    The main thing to know is this. If your looking for a way to open up your existing turbo setup this would be a very easy way to "kick it up" to the next level. It works and it's like a fine running sewing machine.


    There was even a few times I was worried that it would come unglued when I was in 3rd gear and I just kept it there through the twist and turns. We have all been in sharp turns and just didn't want to shift to the next gear because you knew you would have to shift back to gain speed again after you exit the turn. This time I just kept it in 3rd gear accelerating to the next turn bouncing it off the rev limiter. It just sucked it up and never had an issue.

    Quote from Jonathan Thompson

    @rabtech. What tune are you using and are you having to adjust it each time on your way to 14psi?


    I run the tune that Bob at MEFI put in it. The reason I don't have to adjust anything is the way the tune is written. It's looking at load on the engine and it's looking at manifold pressure. And it looks at throttle position and it looks a little at the oxygen sensor data. It also looks at the intake air temp and coolant temp and the knock sensors and many other factors. Based on the values it "sees" it can add more fuel or take away fuel. So each time I step up boost the computer makes the proper adjustments to keep all those values in line. It will do this till the fuel pump and injector size just can't meet the needed demand for fuel.
    Basically the ECU knows what a perfect ratio is supposed to be. And Bob has programmed it into the ecu tables how to make the adjustments to keep it perfect. Once you strengthen the core engine components you can just add boost to get more power.


    I am guessing that 14 to 15 psi is really all that could be used with a single rear wheel. I was really spinning in that video where I passed Kenny. When I started the pass I was running 50mph and when I got around him I was over 85mph.


    Some may be wondering (like me) how you can get to 15 psi with a 2bar MAP sensor. According to Bob their is some headroom in the tune that will allow up to 17 psi.


    No, I will not be going that far. There is absolutely no way I could use it. I am happy at 12. I want to bump it to 14 just to see how my AFR looks. I am pretty sure it's going to be fine. If it is then I will be leaving it at 14.