No Brakes

    FYI check the sensor itself. When I bought my 2017 last year I had spongy brakes. I just thought it was what everyone was talking about. So I took it in to the dealer for first 500 mike service. My first mistake, I should have just checked everything myself. On the way home I get a brake failure light. I pull over and engine oil is all over the place. They didn’t put the oil cap back on. So I am thinking that oil got on the rotor and wasn’t grabbing right and maybe got hot to activate the light. I call them and they pick up the sling. Of coarse not a happy camper after spending 200 plus on the service. Anyways I get the sling back and looks fine. No light. I drive it later in the week and the light comes back on. So I take it back. The slingshot now has 542 miles on it. When they look for the reason why the light is on they say it is because there was no brake fluid in the reservoir. I ask how is that possible? The manager tells me that it is because over time the brake pads lose the “meat” on them and the fluid in the line takes up the space. That is why it was low and it is my fault. Said it was maintance. I tell him if that was true my brake pads would be worn all the way down that there is no way. I have worked on brakes before and never has this happened to me at all. His answer was well I don’t know how you drive. He wanted to charge me 140 but decided to give me a discount and charge me half. At this point after arguing with him I just decided to pay and just leave. Right there and then I decided I don’t care what happens to it I will fix it myself. Well 2 weeks later I install the dei heat kit. When I am underneath the sling I see paint being removed on the driver side frame. I think those assholes dropped brake fluid when they topped it off. So I paint it. Couple months later I take a road trip with my daughter and I feel the brakes squishy. I check the fluid and I have brake fluid. So I am thinking well I and going to do brake brace and maybe big brakes. We come home from trip and think nothing of it. One day the lady and I decide to take out the sling. Luckily she forgets something and has to go back in the through the garage. On the way out she see a little wet spot. (I park the sling in a garage). She calls out to me hey what is this? I get off and and look and it was clear. I am thinking what the hell? So I just park back the sling and decide to take a harder look. So I see why I was leaking. On the brake sensor where there is the bolt, fluid was leaking from a crack. You can only see it come out a little bit when you press on the brakes. So I believe I have been leaking brake fluid since day one. I have ordered the sensor and going to replace it myself. I haven’t driven the sling since I found the problem. I’ll include a picture of the sensor. Also stay away from Santa Teresa Motorsport in Sunland New Mexico.

    I replaced the master cylinder brake pressure sensors myself... The trick for an easy DIY brake pressure sensor replacement is the following kit:


    Phoenix Systems 2104-B V-5 One Man Reverse Brake and Clutch Bleeder Kit | eBay


    WIth the above, a fresh can of DOT-4 brake fluid and replacement (new part#) brake pressure sensors and 4 washers, I was able to replace the sensors in just an hour or so. The quick process description:


    Using the Reverse Brake Bleeder, drain the master cylinder reservoirs (front and back chambers). You do not need to remove the reservoir from the master cylinder. Replace the caps after draining to avert moisture from entering the brake system.


    Disconnect the 2 brake fluid level and the 2 brake pressure sensor electrical connectors.


    Unclip the brake pedal from master cylinder pushrod. There's a re-useable retainer clip on the pin coupling the brake arm to the master cylinder pushrod. Pop that, pull the pin.


    Remove the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the firewall.


    Pull the master cylinder forward a bit, then rotate it 90 degrees so that the pressure sensors are facing up.


    Replace the pressure sensors and washers.


    Reattach the master cylinder to the firewall.


    Reconnect the brake pressure sensor and brake fluid level electrical connectors.


    Re-install the brake pin and retainer clip to the brake pedal arm.


    Loosen the brake fluid reservoir caps on the brake master cylinder (to allow you to easily pump fluid up into the reservoirs).


    Use the reverse brake bleeder to pump fresh brake fluid into the rear brake caliper. I pumped enough fluid into the rear brake caliper to fill the master cylinder reservoir for the rear brake to 1/3'd full.


    Use the reverse brake bleeder to pump fresh brake fluid into the front passenger side brake caliper. Pump enough fluid to fill the master cylinder reservoir for the front brakes to at least 1/3'd full.


    Top off the master cylinder reservoirs to correct level.

    This thread is getting weird.


    There is a well known - even to Polaris - issue with the brake sensors. Get 'em replaced under warranty - perhaps multiple times. Has nothing to do with spongy brakes.


    There is another well known - even to Polaris - issue with spongy brakes. Get it fixed under warranty. Spongy brakes have nothing to do with the sensors. It is air in the ABS module. The dealer has a button in the Digital Wrench software to pulse the ABS to flush out the air. Works great, and is free under warranty. You will be shocked how well stock brakes work when everything is working properly. Completely outstanding.


    Big fan of DIY, but really, it is the brakes. If the dealer can correct it correctly for free, what the fork are you guys thinking?


    If you are leaking oil or brake fluid, find a dealer that is not criminal. Some of you guys are nuts. Warranty is part of the purchase price - you paid for it. Use it. A Slingshot without a trustworthy dealer is scrap metal. Fix that problem before you get the tools out.

    Bottom line....find a GOOD dealer what you can work with... I run up the road (around the City of Chicago) 120 miles to a super great dealer. My tech finds and fixes things before it becomes a problem. The Guys who have been around a while know who's good in there area.

    120 mile ride might be a problem in a new Ford pickup ... But in the Slingshot it's about the right miles to go for coffee....
    coffee server.gif

    I recently have been getting the dreaded brake warning light. I just kill the ignition while driving and it is gone until (usually) after 3 or 4 brake applications. Just flick the key off and back on even while driving. An appointment was booked today at Cycle Springs to get it fixed. And to check out my seat frame weld recall issue.

    “And to check out my seat frame weld recall issue.“


    Geeezzz there is a weld recall!? All years?


    When I get home I will be contacting my dealer for the weld, reverse sputtering, break failure, and break spongy issues. ANYTHING else I have forgotten??

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Quote from SoCal

    “And to check out my seat frame weld recall issue.“


    Geeezzz there is a weld recall!? All years?


    When I get home I will be contacting my dealer for the weld, reverse sputtering, break failure, and break spongy issues. ANYTHING else I have forgotten??

    The reverse sputtering is built in to keep you from going backwards too fast.

    :BLUESS:
    Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do.
    ~Mark Twain~

    From Rob the Slob “The reverse sputtering is built in to keep you from going backwards too fast.“
    He isn’t kidding. I also wondered about that issue when I picked up my SS 2 years ago. But it’s true!!

    The reverse sputtering is built in to keep you from going backwards too fast.


    Come on !!? Seriously? They built in a nanny governor... that’s BS!


    So is this a computer code issue that can be reversed? When on a hill and having to back up and not having enough power and your ride sounds like it needs a tune up-again, is BS!

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Edited 2 times, last by SoCal ().

    Well took the SS in for the seat recall this morning and my brakes were feeling a little mushy. Had the dealer bleed the system while it was there and damn, the brakes are a night and day difference. Now I just have to deal with them opening a case with Polaris for the dimples in my hood....let the fun begin!

    Semper Fi


    "Will Work for MODs!"

    Edited once, last by D.W.Slusher ().

    I taking my 2016 in today for the brake warning light coming on again after the second fix along with the rear brakes lights being slow to go off after I let up off the pedal, the seat frame recall, the side panels finally cracked and a Knock sensor engine code. Good thing I am still under warranty.

    Quote from KYJoe57

    I taking my 2016 in today for the brake warning light coming on again after the second fix along with the rear brakes lights being slow to go off after I let up off the pedal, the seat frame recall, the side panels finally cracked and a Knock sensor engine code. Good thing I am still under warranty.

    @KYJoe57 Let me know what they say about the rear brake lights having a delay going off. I have the same thing on mine and just assumed it was how it was made.

    Semper Fi


    "Will Work for MODs!"