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Not sure about the ESP light, but if you've never owned a belt-driven vehicle before, the whine is pretty normal, until it becomes obnoxious and turns heads.
Not sure about the ESP light, but if you've never owned a belt-driven vehicle before, the whine is pretty normal, until it becomes obnoxious and turns heads.
Thanks. Guess I'm just paranoid.
I drive 120 miles from Southeast of Chicago to the Northwest of Chicago... My dealer of choice is Nielsen's Ent, Lake Villa, IL If you were treated right when you bought your Slingshot, get to know the Techs in the shop --- would be my TWO-CENTS.gif TWO-CENTS.gif yea my dealer is worth the extra TWO-CENTS.gif
Have a look...
Simple test for magnetic brake switch.
And if your Slingshot is new from the dealer...
You will have a 500 mile service check soon.
I drive 120 miles from Southeast of Chicago to the Northwest of Chicago... My dealer of choice is Nielsen's Ent, Lake Villa, IL If you were treated right when you bought your Slingshot, get to know the Techs in the shop --- would be my TWO-CENTS.gif TWO-CENTS.gif yea my dealer is worth the extra TWO-CENTS.gif
I have no problem taking it back to where I got it, I am just concerned that if this is a problem (i.e. not really safe to ride) then an hour could cause more damage. I don't have a trailer.
When you re-start your Slingshot...
Is your ESP light off?
When you re-start your Slingshot...
Is your ESP light off?
Yes. It's been sitting for a few hours. I just went out and started it and the ESP light was off.
System reset and boot-up check is good.
Check the link in post #5 above for a simple test of the brake magnetic switch.
Basically, if the brake lights stay on after you take your foot off the brake pedal, your magnetic brake switch is bad/oxidized connectors or brake pedal is not returning to home position. The ESP light will trip if you attempt to accelerate with brake light system energized.
With the ESP light on, the system will not assist you with your driving, and cruise control is inop if brake lights are illuminated.
Yes. It's been sitting for a few hours. I just went out and started it and the ESP light was off.
Get rid of the magnetic switch and install a mechanical switch. It is an easy change to make if you are handy with tools. This will cure any problem that you may have with the magnetic switch.
Get rid of the magnetic switch and install a mechanical switch. It is an easy change to make if you are handy with tools. This will cure any problem that you may have with the magnetic switch.
My brake light came on last week for the 1st time during a spirited launch. It went on and off a few times but it's pretty much on now. I have a 16.5 not under warranty so I'm going to put in the mechanical switch. I'm pretty sure I can find the part number unless someone wants to help out with a link. FunCycle it seems like you said I'd need to fab a simple bracket for it. Can you elaborate?
My brake light came on last week for the 1st time during a spirited launch. It went on and off a few times but it's pretty much on now. I have a 16.5 not under warranty so I'm going to put in the mechanical switch. I'm pretty sure I can find the part number unless someone wants to help out with a link. FunCycle it seems like you said I'd need to fab a simple bracket for it. Can you elaborate?
I do not know how to do the link but is already on here somewhere. The bracket is easy to make, a piece of alum. the same width as the Polaris bracket, 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick. A hack saw and a drill motor with two different size drill bit and maybe a file. You can get the switch at any auto parts store over the counter. I think that I book marked it and I think Bobby was supposed to add it to the DIY section. Slingmods sells the same thing now complete.
Brake warning light is a different animal. Cause will be low fluid, sensors, air in system, or a leak. If a brake warning light illuminates, check for a system leak. Don't assume it's a bad sensor or air in the system. And if you get the brake failure light, cruise control will be inoperative.
Sensors will detect a pressure difference between front and rear brake pressures. If pressure difference exceeds the parameters, it will trip the brake light. The sensors themselves have a small venturi that can easily be plugged by small debris. If this happens, the sensors will need to be replaced. Always clean the cap and surrounding area before removing cap. Check the sealing rubber is in good condition.
Dot 4 brake fluid should be clear with a yellowish tint. If your brake fluid is cloudy or pushing brown, it contains water. Water has a lower boiling point and will vaporize to air in lines. Dot 4 brake fluid is known to absorb moisture from the air. Keep your brake fluid can and systems capped when not servicing.
FunCycle has a great method for flushing the brake fluid from system then proceed with bleeding.
Yes sir, simplest way to do it.
But, cheaper to purchase local, build your own bracket, and splice wires from your old switch.
Bottom line... what is your time worth?
Most of this information is in our DIY section...
Thank you rabtech
I have a 2018 and the same problem. The dealer has replaced the brake light switch with the new "improved" switch from Polaris. That has not solved the problem. After reading many messages on this I think a speed sensor is the issue. Only problem is figuring out which one.
I have a 2018 and the same problem. The dealer has replaced the brake light switch with the new "improved" switch from Polaris. That has not solved the problem. After reading many messages on this I think a speed sensor is the issue. Only problem is figuring out which one.
Change the brake pedal switch to a mechanical switch before you worry about the other switches. Unless it is the switches on the master cylinder, I am on the fourth set of them.
I have a 2018 and the same problem. The dealer has replaced the brake light switch with the new "improved" switch from Polaris. That has not solved the problem. After reading many messages on this I think a speed sensor is the issue. Only problem is figuring out which one.
I feel your pain, W3JNP.
And the following may not apply to you.
The brake switch mount bracket is adjustable. Loosen the screws and adjust as needed. Set too shallow, it will lose detection, trip the ESP, and morse code your brake lights which will then piss off anybody following. Too deep and the brake pedal arm may break the switch.
I feel your pain, W3JNP.
And the following may not apply to you.
The brake switch mount bracket is adjustable. Loosen the screws and adjust as needed. Set too shallow, it will lose detection, trip the ESP, and morse code your brake lights which will then piss off anybody following. Too deep and the brake pedal arm may break the switch.
It is a BITCH to set so it will operate correctly. I switched the manual switch over to Sling II and then tried to adjust the magnetic when I installed on Sling I. Besides that it also has a delayed action.
