What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies....?

  • K&N has a kit for cleaning and re-oiling their air filters. You should be able to find it at an auto parts store, Amazon or Wlamart. Here's a link to the K&N product - https://www.knfilters.com/99-5…-care-service-kit-aerosol. K&N shows an MSRP or $20, but I've seen it for as low as $14 +/-.

    Before I added my Hahn turbo kit, I had a Hahn CAI. Personally, I think the difference in sound from the CAI plays a psychological role in making the CAI feel like it's making a difference. Just my opinion, since I never dyno'd it.

    Edited once, last by BKL ().

  • I really didn’t post much about when I did my conversion but having the cold air intake header and ceramic exhaust I thought it had quite a bit more pep. Nothing radical but it was noticeable. For me, just having that throaty sound was worth it. Now that you have the K&N on there I think from my experience checking the throttlebody every other clean on the filter would probably be a good idea because I think the additional airflow through that filter might dirty it up a little bit.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

  • working on it everyone out of stock

    You can always just paint them - - if I remember correctly SoCal did the calipers on his 2015 and they looked great

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

  • I really didn’t post much about when I did my conversion but having the cold air intake header and ceramic exhaust I thought it had quite a bit more pep. Nothing radical but it was noticeable. For me, just having that throaty sound was worth it. Now that you have the K&N on there I think from my experience checking the throttlebody every other clean on the filter would probably be a good idea because I think the additional airflow through that filter might dirty it up a little bit.

    I agree with this... At first I was thinking it was all in my head, but today I did the usual breakfast ride and it has about an 11 mile up hill stretch. In the past, even with the cruise set it would down shift in several spots to keep the speed up...


    Today, not one down shift... so something is different... :) Besides me being a happy camper...

    When the going gets tough.... Downshift.

  • So got some add ons at SSIS.


    Rev Dynamics did an awesome job on my rims and once home I will install my air horn woot woot. Had to add the bumper spoilers to complete the look.

    Be extremely careful with that front spoiler. Make sure to reinforce the bottom center of it at the bottom because it is 80% likely to break. You are also much lower than I was when I had it.

  • I agree with this... At first I was thinking it was all in my head, but today I did the usual breakfast ride and it has about an 11 mile up hill stretch. In the past, even with the cruise set it would down shift in several spots to keep the speed up...


    Today, not one down shift... so something is different... :) Besides me being a happy camper...

    You had me going there for a minute! I was scratching my head how a five-speed could down shift all by itself. Then then I remembered…….🤪

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

  • I used Dupli-Color high heat paint and just a quick note. As with any job prep is everything and the blue painters tape worked really well. You can slide the plastic in between the rotor and the brake pads as well. Should you use this kind of paint be aware that it is very thin and the first two or three coats have to be just a shadow. Fourth 5th+ coats can go thicker .


    You can find this paint at any AutoZone or O’Reilly auto parts.


    Have fun!

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

  • BKL this is way above my pay grade and needless to say there are countless ones on this form who could probably speak to this better however it has always been my experience that bolts and nuts should be effortless when combining the two. The only nut I know of that is meant to be difficult is the aircraft nut with a nylon insert.

    Many nuts have an interference fit in various forms (to include Teflon inserts). Some with an oblong shape or a stamped indent or other. In fact every nut used on jet engines must be self locking in some form.

  • I remember that the nut could be easily turned by hand once loosened, but at some point, I believe I must have cross-threaded it on the shaft. The thread chaser made it almost as easy to turn as before. I suspect there may still be a small disruption inside the nut since while I can now turn it by hand, it feels like something is still dragging when I turn it. I can only assume I messed it up at some point because before thread-chasing the shaft, the nut was still difficult to turn even with a long-handled bar or torque wrench.

    I studied engineering my first year at college so I wouldn't have to take a foreign language. Got tired of school and joined the Army to be sent to foreign language school!;) Still, it seems to me that matching threads should turn relatively smoothly, with the torque applied appropriately to secure the nut in place. Not saying freely spinning, but not so tight the threads don't properly interact.

    Before thread-chasing, trying to turn the nut on the shaft really felt like it was cross-threaded. I didn't see any really distorted threads, just some small burrs that looked like they might be causing some resistance.

    If I recall when adjusting mine (and now-a-days I have a short memory) I believe you are correct and the nut did not have self locking capability. I just used a light finger tight torque when adjusting. Then a high final torque.