Posts by Kyle D

    For the master cylinder brace is there any one that is already applicable to the 2019 Kyle D does your master cylinder fully seat in the 2019 SS? I noticed the designs are a bit different.

    To be honest, I have not installed one here at ZZP in a 17+ model to know for sure one way or another. I have an 18 here that I can install one on in a day or 2 once we pull it off the dyno and check for you.

    All I know is, I have the stock intake and a K&N Filter on my '19 SLR and when my wife and I crest the Mule Mountain Pass in Bisbee at 5,000 feet, I have to make sure there's plenty of room on the road for cars to pass us because the Sling is suckin' air and crawling... lol

    I had a similar experience last year in Maggie Valley. I'm tuned at sea level and when we got to 5000' of elevation it started feeling like it was a little down on power. By the time I got to 6500' it was so down on power I thought I had kicked off a rocker or 2 beating on it. But as soon as we got back down into town it ran fine.

    Edward, speaking from my experience your doubts are well founded and you should not be ridiculed. Having worked for an aircraft manufacturing company it was not uncommon where we would have a problem with a component cracking. The engineer(s) would plan out a fix, we would apply the fix, just to have new cracks arise elsewhere because of unforeseen transfer of stresses created by the "fix."


    Bill

    Nobody is "ridiculing" anyone. Wording is extremely important when phrasing things, especially in a forum setting where everything is typed. We're all just keyboard warriors. There can be a lot lost in text and intent can be blurry. We aren't sitting in a back yard around a camp fire having a drink together. Although I'm never opposed to that. It's noble to stick up for your friend but I have no issues with Edward. I've had a couple experiences with people on this forum where they were talking about my turbo kit and what does and does not come with it and they were wrong on many accounts. But it was worded in a way that made it seem like it was semi bashing, made it sound like it was not a complete kit, there were no options for anything, and that was simply not true. I spoke up then also because had I not, someone else new to the forum could have stumbled across that and have had the impression that certain things were not available and there were additional things that needed to be purchased but in reality were part of the kit. Again, phrasing and context is important and I have no issue with Edward but the way the question was presented had the potential for turning a very successful product sideways. And as the vendor of said product, it is my right and my job to protect it and set the record straight when needed. Hope this clears things up a little bit and there are no hard feelings.

    considering the stress that a setup like rabtech has must put on the angle drive and the belt I personally am very impressed that he doesnt go through both on an almost daily basis - - - - probably a very good thing that he cant get any real solid traction 8|

    He's running one of these braces also. He got one prior to release. Since we are both making the same amount of power, I figured he'd be a good beta tester. The belts are strong. I just ran a 1/4mi a couple weeks ago on a fully prepped track with a full slick and the belt was popping on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts but I did not break any teeth off the belt. I can post the video in a different thread so not to derail the OPs thread here.

    As a side question is it possible that the pinion brace puts some type of pressure or stress on the angle drive or the bearing?


    I am not an engineer, but this would seem plausible to me

    This is how potentially damaging conspiracy theories get started. It's posed as a simple question but in reality its not. It's a malicious statement whether it was intended to be or not. The brace is not putting pressure or stress on the drive, case, or bearing. It is simply reinforcing the case and yoke which is already there. If the drive moves at all while driving, the brace isn't adding stress to the case. Remember, it is connected to the case, not the frame. If the drive moves or rotates the braces moves with it.

    sounds like I shouldn’t sweat it unless I move past bolt-ons based on your data

    Yeah the bolt ons, regardless of which company you shop with, are all going to gain you about the same amount of power. Depending on what your end goal is, one thing to consider, is that by the time you spend money on all the bolt ons and gained about 10whp, you've spent at least half of the cost of a turbo kit which will give you 100whp. The turbo kit we sell replaces the intake, the stock exhaust manifold or aftermarket header and replaces it with a cast stainless turbo manifold, and comes with its on exhaust that exits in the same location as stock or we also offer a rear exit exhaust which is by far the best on the market and costs a lot less than the other companies out there. Just some food for thought when considering what your overall goal for your slingshot is. You can also feel free to reach out directly with any questions to my email which is Kyle@zzperformance.com or my office number which is 616.421.4296. Hope this helps.

    We did some testing on the NA Slingshot on our dyno. For intakes we testing the Polaris premium intake, the stock air box from my 2015, and our ZZP cold air intake which you can see here https://zzperformance.com/coll…slingshot-cold-air-intake While the differences were not much, the Polaris premium intake made the least amount of power out of the 3. We've tested some other intakes since then all of them seem to flow about the same. If you're interested in the write up, you can find there here https://zzperformance.com/coll…slingshot-cold-air-intake Hope that helps.

    You can remove that separate from the hood. I would agree with gooseman I would check with Jack. He probably has some laying around from people that have changed colors. This would avoid getting one from polaris. You can call him at 941.706.4000


    Hope this helps

    I have a Smith &Wesson bodyguard 380. Have sneaky Pete holster for waste band but find it not comfortable. Any suggestions?

    I'm a huge fan of Stealth Gear. http://www.stealthgearusa.com I used to like alien gear stuff but they just started getting too bulky for me. The stealth gear is washable and breathable. I have an IWB, appendix, and OWB from them and love them all. Everything else just sits in a drawer collecting dust. The one holster I do really like by alien gear is their shoulder holster. It's very similar to the Galco Miami Classic. I would say just about as comfortable. The Miami Classic is amazing but they do not make it for a lot of firearms.

    Really sad to hear of Rob passing. I had posted I was in the market for the Slingshot cover you can trailer with prior to ever meeting him. He emailed me and said he had one that he had got with his slingshot and had no use for it. I told him I would buy it and he said "You're doing a great job in this community and I like your posts. I'm going to give you this cover as long as you promise to keep up the good work and at some point, just pay it forward." I offered to pay him for it multiple times but 2 days later there was a cover at my door. I got to meet Rob and Luann later that year in Maggie and talked to them for quite a while. Super great people and very down to earth. I'm glad I got to spend some time with them at least once. While it's sad he is gone, he is no longer suffering and I know he will not be forgotten by this community. Rest easy Rob the Slob

    I would have to agree with Dave here. The only time I ever recommend a set of head studs is if A: you are building a new engine, or B: the head is coming off for what ever reason any way. They are definitely not required for any of our turbo kits. Like Dave said, head studs are great to make things as safe as possible; and being reusable, if the head comes off in the future for any reason, you're not buying another set of head bolts.

    Glad you got it all sorted out! Let me know if you need anything else.

    Looking at pics 3 and 5 you have the lower brackets on backwards. You need to switch sides. That set screw on there needs to be towards the front of the slingshot. That is how you adjust how vertical your hood goes. We did that because some people, including myself, have front splitters that the hood would otherwise hit so we incorporated a set screw so you can adjust it so it does not hit the splitter. I have put some pics below. Let me know if this solves the issues you are having. I'll also respond to the email you sent.


    How wide of rim is recomended. I have a 20X12 was thinking of going 345

    You can definitely do a 345 on 12" wide wheel but not on a stock SLR wheel. One thing to consider is the amount of side wall especially if you are boosted. The larger the side wall the more forgiving it will be against wheel spin by absorbing the shock. I've seen a couple guys run 345s on their boosted setups but still could not get a ton of grip because the profile was small. They eventually down sized to a 10.5" wheel and ran a sticky 305 with a taller side wall and got a ton more grip. Wider looks awesome, but bigger isn't always better.