Sounds great I will buy beer and inspiration if you come and show me exactly what to do.
I have been watching you and your posts have lots of great tips and explanations that will save anyone doing this tons of time and money.
Thanks
TURBOS ONLY
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Back at some point during the installation...
Hahn guy here as well.
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Great to see all the boosted slings no matter what kit. Boost on!
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Great to see all the boosted slings no matter what kit. Boost on!
Hey Henry ,,,, Nice to see ya... You want me to fix you up a Hahn avatar?
Love ya... Get that Alpha avatar uploaded..... -
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Thanks, nice words coming from you
I'll list all the work and parts needed once I get it working again. The complicated part is the custom pistons because we are using the 2.2 rods. Le9 rods are uberexpensive so overall its less money to do it that way, but Wiseco wants to get lots of mesurements that need special tools to do (bore size to 0.001 inch, deck height to 0.001 inch and so on) so There has been some downtime waiting for those tools to ship. Lots of learning in this project.once I get all the measurements done, the expense to actually do this is mostly time.
Porting the head has taken me over 30 hours to do, using a 100$ dremel and 100$ of sanding barels. I purchased a burr for my drill to take off the flash from the head, that cost 40$. The actual cost is not high if you do it yourself. Overall the head work will have cost me maybe 350$ max calculating the milllion towels, carb cleaner, valve removal tool, new valve seals etc. Not so bad.
If you only want to replace the pistons and rods, you don't need to do all this disasembly: once you have unbolted the head from the engine and taken off the head bolts and camshaft sprokets, reinstall the valve cover right away so nothing gets in the valve train, and keep the head facing down to remove gasket material from the metal. Once you are done, wrap the head in saran wrap so nothing get inside the oil and water passages. Then do the work for the rods and pistons, and reinstall the head back in its place.
Realistically replacing the Pistons and rods how much boost do you think it would handle? It might be worth it just to beef up this joker and not worry about blowing it.
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If you add head studs and the proper tune (and watch the a/f when under boost) you should (no guarantees here, just saying) should be able to handle 12 pounds safely. But as with all things in life, do so at your own risk.
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Realistically replacing the Pistons and rods how much boost do you think it would handle? It might be worth it just to beef up this joker and not worry about blowing it.
I think the next thing to start to be an issue over 14 psi is going to be fuel delivery. Forged rods, Pistons and SS valves on stock sleaves should handle 14 psi all day. As long as bobs 2 bar tune is solid enough it should be good.
I think most guys who blew their engines blew it because they have been made to believe that a stock Le9 can handle 267 hp no problem, but I have guys local to me who told me that is far from realistic. I have been told rods at 250 hp start to break, and pistons passed 210 are an issue under boosted application. Ring gap is not set for boost and it's too tight. The more I learn about the details, the more I am happy to be tearing my engine appart and building it properly.
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I think the next thing to start to be an issue over 14 psi is going to be fuel delivery. Forged rods, Pistons and SS valves on stock sleaves should handle 14 psi all day. As long as bobs 2 bar tune is solid enough it should be good.
I think most guys who blew their engines blew it because they have been made to believe that a stock Le9 can handle 267 hp no problem, but I have guys local to me who told me that is far from realistic. I have been told rods at 250 hp start to break, and pistons passed 210 are an issue under boosted application. Ring gap is not set for boost and it's too tight. The more I learn about the details, the more I am happy to be tearing my engine appart and building it properly.
Wow. 210 is hardly worth bothering with. You could probably get there or close to there naturally aspirated.
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If all goes well this week, I will be ordering my Hahn kit and will be part of the Forced Induction crowd.
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Folks:
As many for you probably already know, 1320 Performance has come out with their new header (Edition 2 for $395) which is suppose to be for turbo applications and aftermarket exhausts. Here's what I am interested in and hopefully in the future I can get some good info.
I have the Alpha St 2 turbo with OEM manifold. Alpha's turbo setup uses the OEM manifold, however, they do have a turbo header now but it comes with an exorbitant price tag and also you will have to have the ECM retuned by Bob. Before I jump into the new 1320 Ed 2 header (which by the way comes with a very affordable price tag at $395), I want to know why it is so much cheaper than Alpha's or Hahn's turbo headers. At $395, that does not pass the common sense test for pricing (not that I am complaining) but exactly what are you getting? Why didn't 1320 performance state what kind of steel tubing was used for this new and better header when they did for their 1st one? It may be to early to ask these questions since the header just came out but before I jump and get one, I want to know what I am getting for this great price. You know the old saying, "You usually get what you pay for". Nothing would make me more happy than finding out that 1320 Performance header is made of higher than 304 steel tubing and it has been tested on an aftermarket SS turbo application (Alpha, Hahn, or Jon V) without any issues under extreme heat conditions.
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If you add head studs and the proper tune (and watch the a/f when under boost) you should (no guarantees here, just saying) should be able to handle 12 pounds safely. But as with all things in life, do so at your own risk.
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My issue is having enough fuel pressure to have the delivery consistent. I have the software to watch the fuel pressure and all the other parameters in real time. I just haven't had the time to get out and do some real world testing at higher boost levels.
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My issue is having enough fuel pressure to have the delivery consistent. I have the software to watch the fuel pressure and all the other parameters in real time. I just haven't had the time to get out and do some real world testing at higher boost levels.
I agree. I think passed 14 psi fuel pump is going to become the issue. Would be curious to know who Alpha fixes that issue on their V8 swap... -
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I don't think I'm doing it right...
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Ouch !
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ya should of had a V8
