Solding on a car harness is a bad idea. Should use a good crimp with a joint covered by a dual wall shrink tube that will seal it off from the elements.
I should have updates my how to, I didn’t know better back then.
Solder can crack over time and is not friendly with heat cycling especially when the solder is so close to a heat source.
Would stronly suggest you crimp your ignition wire.
Notice they never have solder on oem harnesses or race cars anywhere, there is a reason for this.
Btw, on a turbo engine, low RPM / High boost is a huge no no, it will detonate and screw up the engine forged or not, and its not a tune issue.
Drop a gear and raise your rpm.
Engine RPM is taken by the ecu by a halo effect sensor probing the crank shaft position. The only way you could fool the ecu into ignition cut would be to make it think engine is in the redline by generating a fake pulse to the ecu that would mimic sensor signal at 7000rpm.
There are so many reasons that would be a bad idea and would probably not work very well that we’ll just say that we forget about it...
Cutting power to the ignition would be the best way imo.
Or chuck the ecu and swap to a Elite 1500 and be done with it. 
Is there a way to intercept the rev limiter built into the stock ECU and have the failsafe in effect fool the ecu into applying a rev limiter until the failsafe perceives "normal" conditions?
As I was typing the above... it occurred to me that maybe the traction control limiter could be intercepted instead of the rev limiter. The traction control takes away engine power... does it limit power by basically kicking in the rev limiter? If so could that be used?
The only way is to have it shut down the ignition really. The ecu can’t receive exterior signals to trigger a limp mode or whatnot.
Totaly disagree woth ABS, TC andStability control.
They took these technologies put of racing because it made F1 cars « too easy to drive » and took pilot skill too much out of the equation.
And we are talking about F1 pilots, which I am pretty sure no one on this forum is.
I aggree with them being a pain sometimes when trying to push hard on a track, but they will save your ass when you get into a situation where for some reason you just had a brain fart and reacted wrongly to a situation.
Its not because 2% of the time something doesn’t work as well as a top trained person that its shit. Overall these technologies work better and more importantly are more consistant than human brains. Unlike us, your ecu or stability control never has a headache, is never tired or never has its attention taken away from what its doing.
You may be a better than average driver, but always remember than even Colin McRae crashed his cars, and as good as you may be, your not Colin McRae 
More specific to the OP, I am subbed for a faster rack, oem rack sucks donkey balls for racing.
No country is immune 100% to events like this from happening. Not Canada either. Always sad events. But the question is, why is it more and more common to happen in US vs Canada. Both countries are similar in the type of individuals that make up their citizen, but we don’t see this kind of violence here, not on such a day to day basis, not just with schools, but also with our police etc.
Again, Canada is not perfect, amd of course, we also have had events of mass shootings and murders and police brutality, but its not even close.
Yet our young kids are exposed to about the same toys, tv shows, education, religion etc.
What causes that difference? This is a reflection that is more important than what kind of gun do we need to ban or control.
And its ok if you don’t agree, its not personal, its my opinion and my view of this situation, which you are free to disagree with.
This is very sad, again this kind of even happening in US.
I think US people needs to start a long hard look at what kind of society its promoting and bringing up.
There is a reason why this is now a regular occurence in US and not in Canada or other civil countries.
Not trying to start a Canada vs US debate, gun control debates, etc, but the fact just is that society in US is very military proud. Entrenched in the self sacrifice of soldiers going to wage wars, of the impression of liberty, gun owning and use and pride in this.
While a gun laying in a drawer won’t kill someone, there is an underlying reason why it’s now so common to see mass shootings on the news.
There is a despair in the country, a subtile hate and division of the population. We see this even more since the election of Trump. Now I am NOT saying he’s responsible for a mass shooting, but I DO think that the fact a man like Trump can get elected with the kind of talk he has and attitude he promotes speaks about where Americans are at in their collective minds.
For someone to have access to a gun, and feel this much despair in himself to start shooting into a crowd like we saw in Vegas, Orlando and all these spots around the US, questions need to be asked that go beyond « should we control guns or not ». Way beyond.
One thing for sure, more guns is not the answer. Violence brings more violence. The answer lies in treating the underlying cause of the action, not the tool.
I will say this, 1) its sad I can't get my SS to Florida once I am done with building it, and 2) any wars about power trains in a SS is ridiculous.
The limiting factor on top speed on the SS is aerodynamic, not HP. Basically the SS has the wind drag of a shovel, and at some point no amount of power will push the machine 1mpg more, so that "win" by 1mph is probably more to do with wind than hp.
Close the front end, close up the rear wheel area, lower the SS to a 2 or 3 inches off the ground, remove the splashguards, get a slanted windshield etc and the more powerful setup would have won.
You both just hit your Sling's terminal velocity, nothing to do with the block under the hood.
The issue with the boosted sling is that you have no way to know how it was driven, setup and taken care of, and because a oem engine in boosted application runs close to the limits of its tolerances, you might have a soon to blow engine without knowing it.
This problem is not really an issue for a machine with a cold air and the exhaust because these mods don't really stress the engine much.
Considering the amount of Alpha setup I have seen smoking oil like mad I would stay away from pre-boosted machines unless they where built by pros like DDM themselves.
Sounds like piston slap to me or some knock on the rotating assembly.
So you are using a LCV block and using LE9 crank rods and pistons or keeping the stroke of the LCV?
Got the SCG-1 installed finally. Now I just have to get it configured properly.
Is there any info on how to do this out there?
I only found to set the RPM to 0.5. I also set shift RPM to 6500.
You can set your shift lower, by the time you react to the light coming on you will hit cutoff which is lowered to 6200 on bob's tune if I am not mistaken.
I would check to make sure the headers are sitting flush with the block.
Did you forget to put the exhaust gasket in place when putting the log header on the engine? That would move the turbo closer to the block if the gasket is not present.
If you loosen the 4 bolts holding the turbo to the headers do you have some play to work the turbo a bit?
What's your setup?
Someone asking about Rabtech's setup?
That is blasphemy!!!
Rabtech is like God, everyone knows about that
Once you got the turbo clocked, I would strongly suggest that you take out the turbo and make sure those bolts are real tight.
Any leaks in those joints will cause major headaches, so make sure they are all bolted down solid.
It should be simple, you have bolts to lock the intake side and bolts for the exhaust side. You should start by bolting down the exhaust side bolts so that the center is vertical, then clock the intake side, the center should not move.
Your exhaust bolts are not tight enough to keep the center from moving.
What's involved with pulling the cam cover to replace these? Do I have to drain anything, or just disconnect what's up top, undo the bolts and lift and bolts are right there?
Putting the cover back I don't have to play with any RTV right, just the gasket and make sure it's clean?
Before taking the cover off, you'll want to make sure the contour of the cover is clean, I use compressed air to go around the covers and make sure no little rocks and grit are nudged in the space between the head and the block (especially around the VVT Solenoids and spark plug holes).
The gasket can be reused if its still flexible.
Removing the head bolts you will need a breaker bar, normally they don't move without a fight. For reinstalling the ARP studs, you will need a torque wrench. I STRONGLY suggest using a digital wrench that can tell you the torque being applied in real time. This way, you can tell if you are applying torque or just eating the threads (applied torque will increase on the dial if the threads are holding, if you are applying torque to the wrench and the dial's realtime torque measurement doesn't move, normally that means the bolt is stripping the threads instead of torqueing in place).
Even better, get someone who has the tools and did this before to do it for you, takes about 1h to do properly if you know what you are doing and have good tools to work.
BTW, totally totally useless if you are not turbo or supercharged.
This is interesting...
Quick question, if you already have settings in your current ECU for engine mods (Induction, exhaust etc....done by an earlier tuner) how are those transferred over to the new ECU? Or do the customers need to send in there current one to get those perimeters on there new ECU.
Pretty sure Bob's tunes are encrypted, but not sure...
While I commend the effort for this software, I hope to see the day we can just tune the ECU without complications. Not complaining, just saying
Again, maybe there is some unlocking that needs to be done in order to get the ecu working with the software.
wow sounds impressive.
I guess the money I just spent on a gauge pack could have gone to haltech
What about tuning?
Tuning is done thru a local shop, though maybe now some guys may have a tune for a stock engine that might work well if you don't have many mods.
It sounds like you give up alot going with a Haltech ECU, unless you also get the dash as well.
Actually, no, you only give the cruise control if you keep the stock dash.
With the IQ3 dash you loose a lot more lights and stuff, but you gain displays for everything the ecu is doing, so you can display oil pressure / temp, water temp, boost, AFR, rpm etc all in one place, something that would take you mutliple external gauges to monitor.
You can also have much better problem detection and engine saving measures put in place with the Haltech, for example if fuel pressure isn't right, you could have the ecu lower your boost to avoid blowing up the engine.
You could have the engine shut down in the case of an oil pressure drop, and the list goes on. These are things the stock ecu cannot do.
