TURBOS ONLY

  • I don't think I'm doing it right...



    Stop complaining, we all know you put the 25psi spring in there on purpose to validate you swapping the V8... ;-)


    Joking aside, the work I am doing on my LE9 has me asking lots of questions ans contact pro engine builders, and has been a great learning process. What I have been told is that on boosted application, stock ring gap is too tight. The added heat from the boost in the cylinder affects ring expansion, and the Le9 has very very tight rings, which is good for NA but not so much for turbo, because the heat can cause the rings to expand too much that it actually touches. Once your ring ends touch, it causes extreme pressure on the cylinder walls and can cause the piston and rings to seize in the cylinder, which might look like a rod has broken but its not the case.


    The damage on your sleeve seems to support this theory and might explain a couple of blown engines with cracked sleeves.


    I was told by my builder that pistons are a weak point more than rods. He told me he has had chipped pistons at 220hp often (which if I remember happened to 1poser), rods go at about 250-260.


    The LE9 is just not made to produce 250+ hp cheaply. It needs upgraded internals, and the more I learn about this engine and the details that make a solid boosted engine, the more I feel bad for people (of which I was part of) believing they can get away with a 5k turbo kit making lots of power all day with no issues.


    Everyone with a turbo over 3-4 psi is living on the edge of a blown engine.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
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    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • Hahn hose upgrade,
    During my Hahn install with the advice from a Fun and Sun loving dude we up graded the rubber hose supplied in the kit that runs from the turbo housing to the waste gate. If this hose were to fail the waste gate would loose the pressure signal from turbo and boost could climb to a range where engine parts make bad noises. The hose I used is a -4 or 1/4" Teflon lined Stainless Steel branded hose with -4 or 1/4" female JIC fittings in both ends. The adaptors needed are 1/8npt to 1/4 Jic, one is a 90 degree fitting on waste gate and a 45 degree on the turbo housing. The Teflon hose has the -4 fitting crimped on each end and is 14 inches in length. FYI do not over bend this hose as the Teflon inner hose will crimp over and break. This style of hose is good for high temps but is also an expensive hose. Any local hydraulic hose shop will be able to make this hose and have the adaptors needed. Also Noel at Cycle Springs is stocking the hose. I also upgraded the hose on the BOV for looks and plan and doing the AEM gauge line next. Being the hose business Reply or Editslingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/1229/Editslingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/1230/slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/1232/slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/1231/slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/1230/

  • You have the hose going from the turbo housing to the wastegate? Mine runs from the fitting on the intake to the wastegate. Wonder what the actual difference in psi feeding the wastegate is depending on where the line us getting its air from. Would your wastegate think it's getting a higher psi than the motor is actually getting since you lose boost with every bend and going through the intercooler?
    Where is everyone tapping in to feed the wastegate? Thanks,
    Stephen

  • You have the hose going from the turbo housing to the wastegate? Mine runs from the fitting on the intake to the wastegate. Wonder what the actual difference in psi feeding the wastegate is depending on where the line us getting its air from. Would your wastegate think it's getting a higher psi than the motor is actually getting since you lose boost with every bend and going through the intercooler?
    Where is everyone tapping in to feed the wastegate? Thanks,
    Stephen

    Stephen, the way the hose that Pascal is routing is the original way that the system was set up to be. When Hahn was out in CA with Bob doing the ecu testing for the 2 var map sensor, they changed the source of the signal hose from the turbo housing (recommended by Precision and most installers) to the intake side. By doing this, you pick up an extra 1 1/2 pounds of boost and he's been doing them that way since. Noel (using the Hahn turbos) is going with the recommendations of Precision and running the hose to the turbo housing. You get a quicker response and a truer signal that way, but going to the intake side nets you more boost. More boost+more power. I've gone back to the turbo housing source and have gone to that hose. Besides being looking like a LOT more professional installation, there is less chance of having the rubber hose failing as Greg (Pascal) stated. If you remember last October at the Firm, Noel did have his hose melt and it went to full boost. Not good if you want a 2.4 with stock internal parts to live.

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

  • So are you feeding your gauge off the same port? If not your gauge will always be reading a lower psi than the turbo is actually generating. I would think you would want those two to be accurate to each other if possible.


    Stephen.

  • Sure is fun when that hose melts though. If you have a boost gauge you can manage it by eye. The ride becomes quite spirited. On the plus side hose is cheap and finding a good route will keep you in good shape for a long time. You should be able to tell very quickly if you lose that hose. In that situation it isn't difficult to drive as a fair pace and keep yourself within safe parameters. Just don't cram down that pedal on the right.

  • No, I read it at the port that used to have the waste gate hose attached, It reads true vac and boost, but may be a nano second slower in getting that reading. When I ran to old hose there and teed it, it showed 9 psi boost and now withe the rerouted hose and the same waste gate springs, it shows the 7 that it should. Truly, not being on a track and trying to go full boost at speeds over 100 mph, you really don't feel any difference in the lower boost. To have the extra margin of safety to me is worthit

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

  • @Tango how much boost were you running when the motor blew? Stock engine?

    I always ride safe sometimes!


    Toys in the Sand Box:
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    2016 BMW s1000rr - Austin Racing
    2015 AR 240 Jet Boat 4,000watt Stereo
    2002 CBR 954
    2003 CRF 450