Posts by Toobad4u

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    @MACAWS What size is your trailer and how much clearance do you have between the wheel wells? I am looking for one wide enough for my Sling which is about 2.5" wider than stock. I also want it for caged kart racing when not hauling the Sling

    My wheels are about 2.5" wider than stock in the front also. I have a similar trailer to @MACAWS. Mine is a Pace American 8.5'x20'. After the wheel install I have to back my sling into the trailer as going forward would leave less than .25-.5" between the wheels and the fenders. That's just too close to try. I have pulled mine all over the southeast US like this with no problem. Depending on your tow vehicle, and actual trailer setup, you might not be able to handle the extra weight toward the rear of the trailer. I have a toolbox with battery on the tongue, and full cabinets across the front inside. As mine sits, I back in until a tire just barely touches either fender, and then let it roll about 1" away. Strap it down and let it ride. The engine of the sling is about 2' behind the centerline of the rear axle.
    The wider wheels look cool, but definitely change getting it on a trailer.


    @j4henry. It has rained on us every day since we left. We just ran through some serious rain on a crappy 2 lane road. No where to pull off. Got to a hotel in Carlsbad and 15 minutes later a tornado warning siren started going off. Unfortunately it looks like we will be in rain at some point every day according to the radar. We might be cutting out some tourist destinations to try and get past the rain.

    Use a small screw driver or punch to hold the shroud and fan together in one hole on each side. This allows you to focus on installing the bolt in the other hole without having to support or align the parts together. I fought it for 10 minutes first. Once I put in a screwdriver in one of the holes it was completely bolted up in less than 5 minutes.


    I just pulled the radiator out and installed it without removing the front end. Seemed much easier this way. Even slid it down behind the intercooler into its location.
    I'm not sure why they want everyone to pull the complete front end off of it.


    I'm not near mine right now but remember having the cushion out and sitting in the seat. I remember it being hard as a rock. I'll take a closer look at it this afternoon and see exactly why they would call it a suspension seat. I will test it to see where the platform might be open in the middle to allow and suspension movement.
    I included a picture of the gen 1 seat bottom side that someone had posted before. You can see that it is truly a suspension seat as it is completely open on the bottom side and only supported by the suspension strings.


    I am glad others are seeing and feeling what I have said all along about the SS seats since the first ride I took in mine. I've put all kinds of different foam densities and material to try and make them more comfortable. I even ordered the denser material from PRP, and still had to put extra foam in mine. I spoke with Josh @slingmods about this very thing at SSITS. The first generation seats are actual suspension seats that support you completely. The SS seats are a cushion on top of a plate. No suspension. I feel the cushion provided is not wide enough to properly support your butt. Feels like you sit in the first generation seats, and ON the SS seats. For the price they should cradle you like a baby. I inquired about getting the first gen bottoms to go with my SS uppers but at $450.00, I'm going to have to pass.
    I currently have trimmed my original cushion and installed a 2" thick gel setup under it. I also cut out a section in the center rear so my coccyx didn't have any extra pressure on it. I'll try this one out on a 5 hour run next weekend. I sure hope it is better as I will be driving 6,000 miles in the next month cross country.


    Thanks for the info @FunCycle.
    Mine broke the nipple clean off at SSITS. I repaired it while there and it's still going strong. Personally, I think some vendors silicone hoses are too stiff and when being forced to make that curve toward the valve cover it puts unnecessary strain on the small nipple and causes it to break. I went back to the stock heater hoses on the bottle. I drilled the tank 1/4" npt and threaded a 90° brass fitting into it with the hose barb facing forward to eliminate the bend in the hose. I also used some JB Weld plastic epoxy when installing the fitting into the bottle to help secure it.

    If anyone else has broken the nipple was using silicone hoses, please post up.