Holy shit, my head hurts now...
Factory Sway Bar Upgrade
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My main concern was the spring. Aren't torsion bars spring steel? Does a pipe make a better spring than a solid bar? On every car I ever saw they are solid.
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Springs are solid. They are not under torsion, they are under compression or tension. Torsion bars may or may not be made of spring steel. Depends on how high the performance required. The torsion bar on my Jeep is hollow and is put under much more dramatic stress than the Sling.
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Anyone know if the factory sway bar is hollow or solid?
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Anyone know if the factory sway bar is hollow or solid?
Hollow, as stated on the previous page.
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Anyone know if the factory sway bar is hollow or solid?
if you follow the thread you will find reference to the wall thickness of the OE and the aftermarket sway bars. To date I have not cut open the factory bar to see what the wall thickness is.
@Bigdog in the past years bars were solid but time and innovation always move forward. You can achieve a stiffer bar with less weight (key point) by using hollow bars.
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It's hard to change being educated in the old school...whippersnappers...
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Ok, thanks for all the good info now I guess I can live with the hollow sway bar. Hoping there won't be a catastrophic sway bar failure...
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He said "catastrophic"
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Starting to put together a kit that I can sell and will include DIY instructions for the factory sway bar hole placement.Just need to see if it would be worth the $70 or so retail cost? Slight up-charge and it includes the sway bar billet keepers.
Its not that far away from the full Billet parts at that point, so is there value?Kit to include:
(2) stamped sway bar bushing brackets with zerk fitting
(2) Polyurethane grease-able bushings (black or red)
(2) Black texture powder coated load extension brackets
(4) Stainless steel mounting bolts
(4) Stainless Steel Flat washers
(2) sway bar link flip spacers
(1) DYI instruction sheet for 18% stiffness mod to stock sway bar.very well done @Ruptured Duck, very well thought out, presented and researched . I,d definitely say its worth the money and install time for me !
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Having just changed my sway bar...I reused the original bracket and plastics...mine also has the additional clamps on the sway bar to keep it centered...
My plastics still had grease in them...I really don’t see the need for a grease fitting especially since you can literally remove them and grease them with 4 bolts..
The factory bar showed no signs of wear under the brackets.
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so i got the sway bar but i must be dead head..:) whats the deal with this not closing..? i have a gap and i cannot figure whats wrong?
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this is my issue? i went up 1 more size from original post?and that one was WAY to small..what am i missing?
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this is my issue? i went up 1 more size from original post?and that one was WAY to small..what am i missing?
It will work until you get a bushing with the right inside dia.
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ohhhh damn....ok..i went back to store twice cause it didnt fit...:( ok forget this project...back to oem.....thanks...
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this is my issue? i went up 1 more size from original post?and that one was WAY to small..what am i missing?
Part number is 9.5165R would be in red but they are available in black as well I think the last letter is different. You have the wrong diameter.
RNJ12
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hang on i will tell you what i got....brb
i used the 9.5165r..and it did not fit..so i got one a big larger...this one....and it is the pict above i posted..also to small...i dont think it compresses that much..?
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i think i ned 1 1/2" bushing to fit..
