@Ruptured Duck, I just replaced my sb with ddm. Do you need another to play with? I'm in Conyers Ga. Bar has about 9k miles and looks good
@Roy658 I appreciate the offer but I already have one on the way. If the one I just did works without issue I'll keep it as an OE original to have for other reasons. Otherwise I'll use it to make the holes 1-1/8" apart.
spacer applied to the back side. Also installed my $9 collars to the sway bar.
Note: I know the bolt is shorter than what I want with this spacer. A longer bolt will be installed if I keep these spacers.
Good job there and a cheap mod. Every little bit helps. I did not think about the large ends on the links.
@FunCycle I wasn't sure either until I did the installation. I think 1-1/8" would allow the mod to be done with no additional spacer needed.
The last thing I will be making (not really needed but wanted) will be a backing plate for the poly bushings. the factory mount is narrower than the bushings allowing about 1/8" overhang of the bushing. a simple plate with drilled holes to match the retainer and as wide as the bushing will cover the surface area. It would be sandwiched between the frame mount and the bushing.
I guess a big bushing kit could be made relatively inexpensive for the SS. sourced brackets and the addition of the wider backing plate and you have an upgrade.
I have to ask. Do the current billet kits (with the wider bushing) have the same overhang on the back side?
The DDM is shoulder to shoulder, the whole bushing is supported except for the lip on each side of the bracket. If that is what you are talking about. You are right, from your pictures. You could use the nut offset with a spacer to clear the link or you could use the link center for clearence without a spacer. I would just clear the nut and use the spacer to clear the big end on the link
On my last post I centered the DDM sway bar and put the stops on. Then I mounted the links to the outside of the sway bar. Well just a little while ago I noticed how close the link was to the tie rod. So I cranked up the SS and turned the steering all the way to the left and then the right. The link has been rubbing on the tie rod, I could feel the rub mark on the link. Solution: I moved the link back to the inside of the sway bar and now there is plenty of clearance.
On my last post I centered the DDM sway bar and put the stops on. Then I mounted the links to the outside of the sway bar. Well just a little while ago I noticed how close the link was to the tie rod. So I cranked up the SS and turned the steering all the way to the left and then the right. The link has been rubbing on the tie rod, I could feel the rub mark on the link. Solution: I moved the link back to the inside of the sway bar and now there is plenty of clearance.
i noticed this as well. I also moved it to the backside.
final step for my factory sway bar upgrade. I made backing plates so that the polyurethane bushing is resting completely on a rear surface to insure maximum contact area. Added grease and the job is done.
If you have the factory sway bar retainers the upgrade cost about $24 if you reuse the Energy Suspension bushing and bracket. I added upgraded retainer brackets that would be about $14 more along with sway bar clamps for another $18. That still puts the cost at $56 total so still not that bad (more than 1/2 the cost of billet). Now it might not have the bling look but does function as well. Now I do need to look at the aftermarket billet retainers to see if they provide placement maximize the rear surface like my additional brackets do.
Note: may go through and edit the thread so that just the DIY steps are posted for anyone looking to do the swap.
Really great DIY write-up @Ruptured Duck!!!
It would be way better if you can consolidate your DIY for this sway bar project when you get time!!!! I'm planning on giving this a go this spring. I love these projects that give us useful results for very little cost!!!!
Thanks for doing this and working out the bugs so we can follow your lead!!! 
@Ruptured Duck
How about creating kit that you could sell in the near future? You definitely would get my greenbacks.
Nice job.
@Ruptured Duck
How about creating kit that you could sell in the near future? You definitely would get my greenbacks.
Nice job.
Starting to put together a kit that I can sell and will include DIY instructions for the factory sway bar hole placement.
Just need to see if it would be worth the $70 or so retail cost? Slight up-charge and it includes the sway bar billet keepers.
Its not that far away from the full Billet parts at that point, so is there value?
Kit to include:
(2) stamped sway bar bushing brackets with zerk fitting
(2) Polyurethane grease-able bushings (black or red)
(2) Black texture powder coated load extension brackets
(4) Stainless steel mounting bolts
(4) Stainless Steel Flat washers
(2) sway bar link flip spacers
(1) DYI instruction sheet for 18% stiffness mod to stock sway bar.
Based on the cost of any aftermarket sway bar I think that is a great deal!
Display MoreStarting to put together a kit that I can sell and will include DIY instructions for the factory sway bar hole placement.Just need to see if it would be worth the $70 or so retail cost? Slight up-charge and it includes the sway bar billet keepers.
Its not that far away from the full Billet parts at that point, so is there value?
Kit to include:
(2) stamped sway bar bushing brackets with zerk fitting
(2) Polyurethane grease-able bushings (black or red)
(2) Black texture powder coated load extension brackets
(4) Stainless steel mounting bolts
(4) Stainless Steel Flat washers
(2) sway bar link flip spacers
(1) DYI instruction sheet for 18% stiffness mod to stock sway bar.
That is a great alternative to what is out there now. The best thing is that I know they have been extensively researched.
Based on the cost of any aftermarket sway bar I think that is a great deal!
Good point @MACAWS but everyone should keep in mind that 18% is only for the OE bar. Any aftermarket sway bar will be stiffer than the modified location on the OE. I don't want false claims to be used.
Are these after market sway bars solid bars or heavy wall pipe? I saw a picture of one on here somewhere and it appeared to be a bent pipe with squished ends...I would think a sway bar needs to be a solid bar...
http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-37701.html says
The definition for the second moment of inertia IcIc for a filled and hollow cylinder can be found on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area:
Ic=∫∫Ay2dxdy=∫R0∫2π0r2dϕ rdr=πr44Ic=∫∫Ay2dxdy=∫0R∫02πr2dϕ rdr=πr44
The surface area of the filled cylinder is:
A=πr2A=πr2
Compare filled and hollow cylinder of equal mass:
sc=IcA=r24sc=IcA=r24
, cylinder with fractional internal radius ri=xrori=xro and x<1x<1:
sh=IhA=r4(1−x4)4r2(1−x2)=r2(1−x2)(1+x2)4(1−x2)=r2(1+x2)4>scsh=IhA=r4(1−x4)4r2(1−x2)=r2(1−x2)(1+x2)4(1−x2)=r2(1+x2)4>sc
.
This means a hollow cylinder is stronger than a rod of equal mass and the same material. A hollow cylinder with a bigger inside diameter is better. In the limit x→1x→1 the hollow cylinder is twice as strong. Note that this limit isn't physically viable as it would be an cylinder with infinite radius and infinitesimally thin wall. However it is useful to define the upper limit of the second moment of inertia. I didn't expect the increase in strength only a factor of two.
| shareciteimprove this answer | edited Jul 29 '11 at 11:45 | answered Jul 28 '11 at 22:14 whoplisp811511 |
Here you go @Bigdog. This explains why hollow tubes are better than solid for torsion bars.
^^^ What he said...
Display Morehttp://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-37701.html says
The definition for the second moment of inertia IcIc for a filled and hollow cylinder can be found on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area:
Ic=∫∫Ay2dxdy=∫R0∫2π0r2dϕ rdr=πr44Ic=∫∫Ay2dxdy=∫0R∫02πr2dϕ rdr=πr44
The surface area of the filled cylinder is:
A=πr2A=πr2
Compare filled and hollow cylinder of equal mass:
sc=IcA=r24sc=IcA=r24
, cylinder with fractional internal radius ri=xrori=xro and x<1x<1:
sh=IhA=r4(1−x4)4r2(1−x2)=r2(1−x2)(1+x2)4(1−x2)=r2(1+x2)4>scsh=IhA=r4(1−x4)4r2(1−x2)=r2(1−x2)(1+x2)4(1−x2)=r2(1+x2)4>sc
.
This means a hollow cylinder is stronger than a rod of equal mass and the same material. A hollow cylinder with a bigger inside diameter is better. In the limit x→1x→1 the hollow cylinder is twice as strong. Note that this limit isn't physically viable as it would be an cylinder with infinite radius and infinitesimally thin wall. However it is useful to define the upper limit of the second moment of inertia. I didn't expect the increase in strength only a factor of two.
shareciteimprove this answer edited Jul 29 '11 at 11:45 answered Jul 28 '11 at 22:14
whoplisp811511
Here you go @Bigdog. This explains why hollow tubes are better than solid for torsion bars.
@Bigdog... Your rear axle is also hollow... 
Display Morehttp://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-37701.html says
The definition for the second moment of inertia IcIc for a filled and hollow cylinder can be found on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area:
Ic=∫∫Ay2dxdy=∫R0∫2π0r2dϕ rdr=πr44Ic=∫∫Ay2dxdy=∫0R∫02πr2dϕ rdr=πr44
The surface area of the filled cylinder is:
A=πr2A=πr2
Compare filled and hollow cylinder of equal mass:
sc=IcA=r24sc=IcA=r24
, cylinder with fractional internal radius ri=xrori=xro and x<1x<1:
sh=IhA=r4(1−x4)4r2(1−x2)=r2(1−x2)(1+x2)4(1−x2)=r2(1+x2)4>scsh=IhA=r4(1−x4)4r2(1−x2)=r2(1−x2)(1+x2)4(1−x2)=r2(1+x2)4>sc
.
This means a hollow cylinder is stronger than a rod of equal mass and the same material. A hollow cylinder with a bigger inside diameter is better. In the limit x→1x→1 the hollow cylinder is twice as strong. Note that this limit isn't physically viable as it would be an cylinder with infinite radius and infinitesimally thin wall. However it is useful to define the upper limit of the second moment of inertia. I didn't expect the increase in strength only a factor of two.
shareciteimprove this answer edited Jul 29 '11 at 11:45 answered Jul 28 '11 at 22:14
Here you go @Bigdog. This explains why hollow tubes are better than solid for torsion bars.
OBJECTION !!!!!!! .....Ambiguous 
