Hawk Brake Pads on sale...

  • Guess it's like the cabin heat you will never be totally satisfied no matter what you do to it. I have all stock brakes..pads..disks...pump setup and when needed it has stopped on a dime.....can it do better sure it can....I remember transitioning from independent braking to ABS in my Harley years. Harley would put out videos of Ultra Classics hard braking in the rain did I ever want to try it......hell no...... but I got used to it ..... Guess that's what has happened with the SS. IMHO

  • So @Ruptured Duck ....You are saying that just by changing the break pads that in your opinion the braking power got better?? Mine are mushy after 2 flushes and my next option was to break down and buy some brace that @slingking was talking to me about in SoCAL. This upgrade will help alone?

    I would say no. It did feel a little better but my original SS had good brakes from the start. It may have been the simple fact that the Hawk pads are slightly thicker?? not sure. I can tell you that my new 16.5 SS has to have the pedal pumped twice and it is not what i like at all. Will need to look into all the suggestions when I get my pads. I planned to bleed at that time.


    Where was it that someone noted a Polaris tech doing a 75mph swerve brake procedure to trip the anti-lock brakes to burp the system from the factory?

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  • @Ruptured Duck you don't need to do that "swerve brake " maneuver. Right in front of the Master cylinder is the ABS bleed valve. It is facing up and has a little black cap on it. My dealer did mine and my 2 pump days are behind me. He did suggest letting the Slingshot sit for a day so all the air can find its way to the top before bleeding.

  • @Ruptured Duck you don't need to do that "swerve brake " maneuver. Right in front of the Master cylinder is the ABS bleed valve. It is facing up and has a little black cap on it. My dealer did mine and my 2 pump days are behind me. He did suggest letting the Slingshot sit for a day so all the air can find its way to the top before bleeding.

    Yeap, when we were bleeding brakes up at the Maggie Valley event, every slingshot we bled had air come out of that nipple on the ABS module. Most of them had air at the calipers also which was not helping either. A simple bleed of the system with a regular bleeder bottle and a 10mm wrench is all we have been using and if you get all 3 calipers and the ABS module, it seems to work.

  • well with all this useful info looks like a new DIY sticky will need to be written. If no one gets to it before me I'll do my best to do one.
    Thanks guys.

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  • So @Ruptured Duck ....You are saying that just by changing the break pads that in your opinion the braking power got better?? Mine are mushy after 2 flushes and my next option was to break down and buy some brace that @slingking was talking to me about in SoCAL. This upgrade will help alone?

    Sorry for the delay styln. Based on what you described, you'll benefit more from the bleeding procedure everyone is talking about. My brakes worked fine when I installed the brace, and the brace alone made a nice difference. However, if there's air in the lines, there's air in the lines and a brace won't make it much better.

  • I think I am running the 5.0
    I need to check but that is what DDM recommends

    The Street 5.0 pads are great but dust a little more than the Ceramic which is what we would recommend for normal street driving.


    I also just wanted to mention that when you order the pads from regular automotive sites you will only get enough pads to do 2 wheels.
    When you order from us here at DDMWorks you get pads for all 3 wheels and they come ready to install.


    You guys probably already knew that just wanted to put it out there.

    Jeff Mellor
    DDMWorks
    119A Highway 183
    Piedmont, SC 29673
    Orders - 864-438-4949
    Tech Support - 864-907-6004
    www.DDMWorks.com

  • @Jeff@DDMWorks how much is a complete set from you guys? $60 bux for the 5.0's is not a bad deal even if it's to only do the fronts for now. Also are these the pads that you have to shave the tabs off before install?

    Owner of Three's Da Life Fenders and Three's Da Life Apparel


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  • @Jeff@DDMWorks how much is a complete set from you guys? $60 bux for the 5.0's is not a bad deal even if it's to only do the fronts for now. Also are these the pads that you have to shave the tabs off before install?

    Here is the link to our site for the hawk pads.
    Slingshot Upgraded Hawk Brake Pads


    Again ours come 3 sets to a box so you are able to do all 3 wheels on the slingshot.


    We just did some investigating and sale they have running is probably going to get them shut down as the price they are selling them for is less than what we can buy them for. They are selling them below the MAP price.


    You will have to grind the tabs off if you go that route. We take care of all that for you when you buy from us.


    This price is insane though so if you want to take advantage while you can I don't blame you.

    Jeff Mellor
    DDMWorks
    119A Highway 183
    Piedmont, SC 29673
    Orders - 864-438-4949
    Tech Support - 864-907-6004
    www.DDMWorks.com

    Edited once, last by Jeff@DDMWorks ().

  • Sure do. If you will be in Co or in NY give me a call or email me to setup an appointment.

    Damn!!! I should of told you about mine when you were here in Cali for the SoCal event!!

    Owner of Three's Da Life Fenders and Three's Da Life Apparel


    Proud supporter of S.O.G. (Slingshot Owners Group) :thumbsup:


    WWW.ROCKMYBLING.COM

  • the free rotors donated by Alpha at SSITS have been prepped and drilled pending the pads. Still need to have them turned before I can install. Worst case I just swap the originals back on. Guess the North GA ride will be the test.


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  • got my pads today and will have the rotors turned. Should be installing tonight. I'm going to update the DIY section with some better images.

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  • sorry. Rear brake will be a little later. Doing the fronts first. Next month more than likely.
    Have to source one more good used rotor to drill for he rear first.

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