Rear Protection Anyone?

    I’m getting lots of great tire info here! But on the original topic, I am very guilty of blatant “idea plagiarism”. The cost of shipping one of Slinglow’s rear panel plates to Nova Scotia would be absurd. So, I made my own. Will mount it using contractor adhesive (rather than 3M tape. And I like the idea of supplementing the adhesive with plastic push rivets. Just in case...... So, in order to save a bunch of disassembly, can anybody give me a sketch with dimensions indicating where I can safely drill (for the plastic push rivets) without puncturing the fuel rank? Thanks!!

    Quote from lowlander

    I’m getting lots of great tire info here! But on the original topic, I am very guilty of blatant “idea plagiarism”. The cost of shipping one of Slinglow’s rear panel plates to Nova Scotia would be absurd. So, I made my own. Will mount it using contractor adhesive (rather than 3M tape. And I like the idea of supplementing the adhesive with plastic push rivets. Just in case...... So, in order to save a bunch of disassembly, can anybody give me a sketch with dimensions indicating where I can safely drill (for the plastic push rivets) without puncturing the fuel rank? Thanks!!

    I'll be pulling my rear panel tomorrow to locate these fasteners. Will be more than happy to share the info. Stay tuned...

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    @lowlander and others:


    I pulled the rear panel and discovered that the entire area behind it, left to right and top to bottom, contains the gas tank. Because of this, I cannot recommend drilling holes for fasteners with it in place. The removal is simple and takes about 5 minutes:


    1) remove 8 T25 torx bolts - 4 down each side.
    2) remove 4 T40 torx bolts on upper edge.
    3) remove 3 T40 torx bolts on bottom edge.
    4) pull upper lip of rear panel out from under the lower rear deck panel above it. Keep the bottom of the panel you are removing up tight against the machine for this - do not pull it out yet. It helps to lift the machine in the air to position the swingarm as low as possible for this step.
    5) remove nut from lower shock mount bolt.
    6) lift rear of machine, keeping the tire on the ground, until lower shock mount bolt is loose and remove bolt by hand.
    7) lift bottom of shock up and slide panel off of the shock, over the rear tire.


    Now we have the problem of where to position the holes. There is little clearance between the back of the rear panel and the gas tank so the only place I would use the push fasteners is where the metal strap is holding the tank between the upper and lower halves. It is recessed a bit there and the strap will keep the fasteners from ever contacting the tank. This would allow for 2 fasteners only just above center. The only other place would be the extreme low left and right corners where you can see the tank curves up creating a small space between the bottom of the tank and the frame. I feel like this is not an ideal location because of the proximity to the plastic tank and it's placement at the very bottom edge of the plate. There is no suitable location for those fasteners at the top.


    My installation plan is to rivet the 4 corners of the plate to the panel using 3M tape to assist. I will put a stainless washer on each rivet on the back side of the panel just for extra insurance because it is plastic. Then I will cover the back of the rivets with a small piece of RV repair tape just so there are no edges exposed - probably not necessary. Anyone with a riveting tool could do this as well. For those who are looking for an installation not requiring a tool purchase, I think the two push fasteners just above center and 3M tape is the ticket. Any opinions? I can drill them either way, to suit, for each person. We are also making a trip to the hardware store today to explore other fastener options. I think I've said this before, but anyone with a brainstorm solution for this could help me out here.


    Finally, @MiM, I asked about the oxidation of the bare aluminum. Shawn claims that he has never seen a boat come back into his shop with oxidation on the diamond plate which is what they use for floors among other things. He says they do fade from exposure and being walked on, but that's it. And these are boats that go on the water! He says that if you polish or wax it periodically like the rest of the body, it should keep it's shine. I'm still waiting for a conversation with the powder-coater to discuss the benefits of clear coating. Hopefully today.


    slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/58406/slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/58407/

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Edited 2 times, last by SlingLow ().

    Moving the current list down here for convenience.


    From Slinghotinfo.com:


    @MiM - stainless (we'll work on that)
    @roadog1aj - gloss black
    @bjk81 - wrinkle black
    @Brucee - To Be Determined
    @MBMedic - TBD
    @Cypressfunk13 - TBD
    @CptJeep - wrinkle black
    @Neosolidus - pearl red
    @rnj12 - pearl red
    @Zorasmiles - pearl red
    @Cywolv - TBD
    @johnl327 - gloss black
    @sgtklein - gloss black
    @CDCAMEL6 - pearl red
    @PaddyMcTexan - wrinkle black (your name rocks!)
    @flipr - gloss black
    @Goats_Hogs - gloss black/clear
    @SSREAPER - gloss black/clear
    @McClendons - gloss black/clear
    @DKF Texas - gloss black/clear
    @Dread Pirate - gloss black/clear
    @MWSlingshot - gloss black/clear


    'From 'other' forum:


    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Edited 2 times, last by SlingLow ().

    @SlingLow.....thanks for doing all the research for us!!! It definitely helps with what I might want to do with mine. I'm thinking I'll just get mine without any holes, and go from there. Not sure what the exact weight is of this cover, but it can't be all that heavy. I may simply decide to use copious amounts of the good quality 3-M tape and perhaps (big perhaps) I might install 2 push-pin fasteners if I have any concern for falling off. We live up north, so we don't have too many days of really high temps that might allow the tape to soften too much. I also don't leave my Sling outside in the hot sun for extended periods. So the 3-M tape solution may be good for me, and not so much for others. :00000019:

    Those who will give up essential liberty to secure a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety


    2016 Slingshot SL Vin# 8855 (born in September 2015) w/ Alpha Stage 2 Turbo @ 7.5psi

    @SlingLow AWESOME!! SUPER NICE WRITE UP AND RESEARCH!!! Thank you for going through so much problem to create a product that is well thought out, looks great on the sling and of course will not only be for show but protection! Pearl Red w/diamonds polished and powder coated will be pretty awesome..hint...HINT LOL


    Just wow..thanks!

    Personally with how little space is there after looking at your pics I have decided to go JB Weld route (with 3m double sided for initial).


    I have no plans to remove it and once it is on I am ok with it taking an act of god to remove(brake it) it.


    This might sound silly but some sort of disclaimer on your part stating that you are not responsible for the mistake that is likely to happen if more than 10 of these are sold.


    I can see someone not attaching it right and it falling and causing damage or someone drilling through the gas tank, best to have your rearend covered for gremlins stupidity, I wouldn't want your goodwill of offering these at low cost come back to bite you.


    Remember that we are in the country that people sue after being burned by hot coffee because they were not told that the HOT coffee was HOT.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

    Quote from Neosolidus

    This might sound silly but some sort of disclaimer on your part stating that you are not responsible for the mistake that is likely to happen if more than 10 of these are sold.


    I can see someone not attaching it right and it falling and causing damage or someone drilling through the gas tank, best to have your rearend covered for gremlins stupidity, I wouldn't want your goodwill of offering these at low cost come back to bite you.


    Remember that we are in the country that people sue after being burned by hot coffee because they were not told that the HOT coffee was HOT.

    Very good point. It saddens me that it has to be made but I would not want you to be the victim of an act of "goodwill".

    An excellent point @Neosolidus. I'm not expecting this to turn into a long term business like @Ruptured Duck has going but rather am approaching it as a hobby, which means no business insurance or liability coverage. I guess I should spend a dime with an attorney to discuss the proper procedure to CYA or CMA or whatever. I can always send a piece of paper that says, 'do this, don't do that', but I don't know if that has any legal credibility.


    For permanent bonding, @kev and @mniron mentioned a bonding agent called PL Premium on another thread that apparently is quite permanent. You may want to check into that.


    And no one ever told me the HOT coffee was HOT. Thanks for the heads up on that too!

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Quote from Neosolidus

    @SlingLow maybe @Bill Martin can give you some quick and dirty advice, I might be overthinking it but i am one of those that prepare for the worst and hope for "ok" cause we all know the best aint happening.

    Very easy fix - you can use wording such as “I have been successful with attachment of this item like this________________________. If you choose to purchase this item there are no warranties or liability accepted either expressed or implied relating to ANY installation you may choose.


    That is a fairly blunt tool but will get the job done unless you start to sell a lot of these. If so I could draw up something a little more precise. Hope this helps

    I might not be right but I can sure sound like it

    The PL Premium I am familiar with is a construction adhesive, comes in a tube and is dispensed with a caulking gun. Works great and should be ideal for this project. I suggest prepping the SS plastic first (I use a body shop product called, amazingly enough, Plastic Prep). That will remove any wax or other contaminants and enhance the adhesion.

    Quote from Bill Martin

    Very easy fix - you can use wording such as “I have been successful with attachment of this item like this________________________. If you choose to purchase this item there are no warranties or liability accepted either expressed or implied relating to ANY installation you may choose.
    That is a fairly blunt tool but will get the job done unless you start to sell a lot of these. If so I could draw up something a little more precise. Hope this helps

    I am proudly Canadian. As most other forum members are properly proud of their country, the USA. However, while our countries share many features and values, we Canucks are waaaaay less litigious than our US neighbours. So the thought of adding a disclaimer, while a good idea, would not have come to mind for me.