Need a rocker ignition switch

Quote from chavey2

Y'all checked my thread "The DEFINITIVE thread on Slingshot Electrical Switches"?

I'll keep it simple: The link you have for the Otto K1 Momentary switch should work for an ignition switch. You can also find ones with lights on them if you want. Check out Mouser.com too.

Bear with me.... I looked at that and tried to figure out a momentary switch (most of them have A-B-C positions - just as long as ONE position is momentary I don't care about the other positions.... would like one position to be momentary ILLUMINATED (independent as there are no dependent ones offered).

I can't figure it out. I sent it off to my electronics friends who programmed all my routers and does such stuff for a living, and he can't figure it out. It just doesn't seem clear how to configure and order a momentary switch with a light...............

https://peerlesselectronics.com//files/K1ABCAAAAA.pdf

Quote from Goats_Hogs

Peg, I have a Digital Dog with two remote "fobs" that I'm not going to use. I took it off my Slingshot before selling last fall. It has a rocker switch that fits in the normal slots. It is either "On", or "Off". It looks for the fob, but if the fob is asleep, you just press the button in the center of the fob. It worked great for me, although I did need to press the button quite often on the fob. The other fob (I put it somewhere I'd never forget.... and now need to look for it) is new and never used. I'd make you a great deal on it if you are interested. PM me here or Facebook, my link is on the avatar/profile pic info. It is plug and play, just plugs into the wiring for the original ignition switch.

Thanks I'm mulling this over. I don't like to carry things in pockets so am not sure. I will keep it in mind as I'm not sure I am going to find a rocker that will do the trick.

Quote from Funinthesun

This is the smallest Rocker i could find, but it's still too big for what you need

Kinda big, but too short I think to fit the slot!

Quote from chavey2

K1-ABCA: Momentary SPST. Use for garage door opener. - This would also work for starter button. You change those last four "A's based upon whether you want lights and/or logos on it.

It becomes K1ABC"67890" - the 67890 being which letter code for which color and voltage light you want:

Position 6: Light:

B. 6V Incandescent
C. 12V Incandescent
D. 24V Incandescent
E. 125VAC Neon
F. 250VAC Neon
G. 2V Red LED
H. 2V Green LED
J. 2V Amber LED
K. 6V Red LED
L. 6V Green LED
M.6V Amber LED
N. 12V Red LED
P. 12V Green LED
Q. 12V Amber LED
R. 24V Red LED
S. 24V Green LED
T. 24V Amber LED

Position 7: Lens Color Left or Top

A. No Lens
B. Red
C. Green
D. Amber
E. Clear

Position 8: Lens Color Right or Bottom

A. No Lens

B. Red

C. Green

D. Amber

E. Clear

Position 9: Light Orientation and whether it comes on full time or only when pressed

Position 0 (or 10): Logo & Orientation

So, let's presume you want a 12V Momentary Vertical Switch with a Red Light that comes on ONLY when pressed:

K1ABCNBABD:

K1 = Otto K1 switch

A = Standard push on blade electrical connectors

B = Black in color

C = On-none-Off SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) Momentary. As soon as you release it, it will go back to the down Off position. There is not middle position.

N = 12V Red LED

B = Red Lens on Top

A = No lens on Bottom

B = Dependent light that only lights when turned on.

D = Vertically oriented with light on top and momentary position on top. No logo.

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chavey2: how can I thank you and your wonderful brain? I'm just gonna change that configuration to amber and off we go. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote from chavey2

Kewl, make sure you change both the LED and the lens color (otherwise you'll get an amber led under a red lens). You could also try a clear lens if you can't find amber.

Also, you may not need the light unless you just really really want it. IMO, your thumb is going to be over the light when you press the button anyways, so unless you just like seeing a light shine through your thumb, it isn't going to do much. You could also change the 9th position in the code for orientation to have the light on at all time a by changing from B (for dependent) to D (for independent)

yep I did change it to the amber code in both places. And I also saw a note on their page that says “no dependent illumination with momentary” so it would have to be independent. So I will have to change that code too.

ONE MORE QUESTION PLEASE: since there will be momentary action in one position, no action in the middle, and OFF in the third position, doesn’t that only leave me two only useable blades? Or would this configuration come with a fourth blade?

Quote from chavey2

Not sure what you mean by "blade". I'm presuming the electrical connection on the back of the switch? In a non-lighted momentary, you will have at least 2 blades - + & -. In a lighted, depending Dependent or Independent, you will have a 3rd or 4th to run the light. This portion of their data sheet shows what you will have.

Thanks yeah electrical connectors on the back = blades (in my head) LOL

I found a double momentary rocker switch in my basement. I don't see any reason why I can't use it for the start button, since there won't be anything assigned to one of the positions.

I think what I should do is cut the start button wires near the start button to leave the length and the quick connect. Then either use blade connectors to slip on the blades, or solder the wires to the blades.

There are 3 blades on the back - top, middle, bottom. I just need to figure out where each of the three starter wires need to go on the switch. i.e., I want it to start when I press the bottom.

Quote from SlingLow

studiopeg if you want the bottom position to start, it will likely be the center and top posts you'd use with BKL 's instructions above.

Thanks! I always have to ask a LOT of questions when attempting to do something I have no experience in.

Quote from BKL

Since you're not connecting a light, just connect the Pink and Yellow wires to the center and one of the outer posts. See my Post # 13. Here's the starter switch page from my 2015-17 Slingshot Service manual -

Knowing that shorting the Pink and Yellow wires in the connector that normally plugs into the connector to the starter button starts the engine, I assume the OEM switch uses the Pink wire to supply power to the switch where the power is split to power the light with the ground wire completing the circuit for the light and the switch itself connects the incoming power to the Yellow wire that triggers the starter motor.

To test for yourself, just turn the ignition key to the Run position and then short the Pink and Yellow wires in the dash and the engine should start.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My new double din is in and the ignition start button is dangling through the opening of the switch hole the momentary rocker is going in. I was just about to start on the project. The start button goes to a detachable connector (which I can barely reach through the opening), and that connector on the other end has the pink, yellow, and black wires that go to the ignition.

However, the wires coming OUT of the connector going to the start button itself are blue, red, and black. Since black is ground, I assume the red and blue correspond to the pink and yellow. Why do they do this, just keep the wires all the same color so laymen like me don't get fearful they are going to fry something....

So what do I do with the ground wire? Since it won't be used because I am not using an illuminated switch, do I tape the end with electrical tape or is there something better? How about a little heat shrink.