Are you going to make me spend MORE money?
Well sure, you spend more money. You have to make it your own, right?
JUST SAYIN
Are you going to make me spend MORE money?
Well sure, you spend more money. You have to make it your own, right?
JUST SAYIN
The Wilwood red is a little different than the red we powder coat in house. There is another option if you want a rear kit to match the fronts though...soon
I'm all ears!
Dave@DDMWorks if your coming up with a brake package ie. adding rear caliper to your 4 piston front brakes, please consider including pre-installed speedbleeders. Save allot of heartache when doing the bleed.
Dave@DDMWorks if your coming up with a brake package ie. adding rear caliper to your 4 piston front brakes, please consider including pre-installed speedbleeders. Save allot of heartache when doing the bleed.
May I ask why you would need speed bleeders when it only takes about 10 minutes to gravity bleed for all 3 brakes.
May I ask why you would need speed bleeders when it only takes about 10 minutes to gravity bleed for all 3 brakes.
If thats all it takes please give instructions. I never heard of bleeding brakes by gravity. All I've heard is it takes 2 people to bleed brakes. One to pump brakes the other to open and close the valve.
I mentioned it last week ..As Full blown MotorSports instructed me to do and worked out with no issues..
I made sure during my bleeding that I wanted all new brake fluid and so took little more time to replace ..
You just remove brake reservoir cap and start with right side and put small hoses on and start the drip bleeding..
When you think you have all bleed then I would hit the brake pedal few times and do over to see if any air was trapped..
After a week of riding and went over mine again to be safe..
Best purchase I made was big brake kit.. I feel so much more confident is stopping ..
If thats all it takes please give instructions. I never heard of bleeding brakes by gravity. All I've heard is it takes 2 people to bleed brakes. One to pump brakes the other to open and close the valve.
3 pieces of 5/16 x 2 feet clear tubing. Stick the first piece of tubing on the bleeder and crack open the bleeder. Walk to the next brake and do the same thing and then the next. Then you walk around again closing the bleeders and removing the tubing. The tubing should be showing 3 to 4 inches of fluid. The ends of the tubing should be higher than the bleeder and the cap on the master cylinder should be open. I also do this every time I change the oil, so I am always changing the brake fluid. I also bleed the brakes on the 4 wheelers the same way. When I picked up Sling I in 2015 it took around 10 -12 times to finally get all of the air out of the system and get a good pedal. Any other questions about this?
No questions except do you keep an eye on yhe fluid reservoir so it is not sucked dry? Speedbleeders are for dummies like me. Crack the first one open. Pump brakes until you get clean fluid and go to the next. Speedbleeders get rid of any air in the system even if you run yhe reservoir dry.
No questions except do you keep an eye on yhe fluid reservoir so it is not sucked dry? Speedbleeders are for dummies like me. Crack the first one open. Pump brakes until you get clean fluid and go to the next. Speedbleeders get rid of any air in the system even if you run yhe reservoir dry.
Yes you make sure the reservior stays filled or now you have real air in brake. lines..So yes make sure stays filled..
that was one reason I did one at a time just to make sure for first time doing bleeding this way.
If I had someone with me I would have pumped brakes .
Also if you have four bleeders as I do on my calipers you do every bleeder to make sure air is not trapped in each bleeder.
That's why I like speed bleeders. They have a ball that closes the vjave off when you let off the brake pedal. Thus no air gets in. If you empty the reservoir and air gets in, the speedbleeders will remove the air by filling reservoir and pumping the breaks until all air is out. If you do not pump the breaks your leaving old fluid in the lines. Very simple effective tool. I used them on my Goldwing for many years with great success.
No questions except do you keep an eye on yhe fluid reservoir so it is not sucked dry? Speedbleeders are for dummies like me. Crack the first one open. Pump brakes until you get clean fluid and go to the next. Speedbleeders get rid of any air in the system even if you run the reservoir dry.
Yes, you do keep the res. full of course, It would take you a good while to empty it. Also by doing this you are changing fluid every time, I normally run 6 to 8 inches up in the tube myself.
I haven't bled mine to date. As another member mechanic suggested. Suck out the fluid in the resvoir and fill with new fluid a few times. That's all I've done and no mishaps yet. If I have a mishap you probably won't hear about it depending on the outcome.
A gravity bleed sounds great. What I can say is six or so months ago I was getting a repeated break failure light. It would go out after a restart only to come back on after a few miles. I tested the fluid and the moisture content read over 2%. I ordered speed bleeders & changed the fluid, incredibly easy and efficient. I love them! The break failure light has never come back on again. My theory is the extra moisture in the fluid would reach boiling point adding pressure which would set of the switch to the light?
Not to say that a gravity bleed wouldn't produce the same results sounds easy also.
A gravity bleed sounds great. What I can say is six or so months ago I was getting a repeated break failure light. It would go out after a restart only to come back on after a few miles. I tested the fluid and the moisture content read over 2%. I ordered speed bleeders & changed the fluid, incredibly easy and efficient. I love them! The break failure light has never come back on again. My theory is the extra moisture in the fluid would reach boiling point adding pressure which would set of the switch to the light?
Not to say that a gravity bleed wouldn't produce the same results sounds easy also.
.....hey what are these Speed Bleeders you and others speak of and is this something you added to your stock calipers ....? I never used speed bleeders, I just used my Mity vac and air tank to bleed, never had any issues (knock on wood)...
.....hey what are these Speed Bleeders you and others speak of and is this something you added to your stock calipers ....? I never used speed bleeders, I just used my Mity vac and air tank to bleed, never had any issues (knock on wood)...
Great product, I believe they have a spring loaded bearing inside which acts as a check valve. You simply loosen them a turn and pump the brakes. Single person operation. After the bleed simply retighten the bleeder.
Great product, I believe they have a spring loaded bearing inside which acts as a check valve. You simply loosen them a turn and pump the brakes. Single person operation. After the bleed simply retighten the bleeder.
Geeezzzz 15 bucks to make your life easier that’s a deal! Of course we here in California don’t really know what this “moisture” is that you’re speaking of🤪
Yes 15 for each caliper. I've used them for years on my Goldwings. Also used to bleed the clutch on the wing.
Now, on the Wilwoods, it's 2 per caliper, so yes $30/caliper or $60 for the front and another $15 for the back - or $75. The brake bleeder kit from Autozone was free to rent or only $60 to buy.
Now, on the Wilwoods, it's 2 per caliper, so yes $30/caliper or $60 for the front and another $15 for the back - or $75. The brake bleeder kit from Autozone was free to rent or only $60 to buy.
And my calipers have 4 each ..Yikes that adds up ..I will do it the old fashion way and gravity feed bleed..
I only use one per caliper. You only have 1 line un so if a minute amount stays who cares?