What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies....?

    I am going to put the patch around the steering shaft by cutting a hole in the rubber just a shade bigger then the shaft then cut the patch down the center to the hole. Slip it around the shaft. There is no way I am taking the steering wheel off or the seat out. I screw up to many things and don't own a trailer to take it and pay $140 a hour to get it unscrewed.

    If the music is to loud you are to old.

    Quote from DJohnson

    I am going to put the patch around the steering shaft by cutting a hole in the rubber just a shade bigger then the shaft then cut the patch down the center to the hole. Slip it around the shaft. There is no way I am taking the steering wheel off or the seat out. I screw up to many things and don't own a trailer to take it and pay $140 a hour to get it unscrewed.

    You will need to overlap the the two pieces for it to work like you want it to. I also do not believe you will be able to get in there to do what you want. Been there and done that and that was why I pulled the seat out and it is still not easy to get to. There is nothing that you can mess up by pulling the seat out.

    Quote from DJohnson

    I want to get those holes blocked off in the drivers side firewall. I have some thick black rubber that is sticky on one side but I know it is not going to stay stuck on when the firewall gets hot. is it safe to but some short self drilling sheet metal screws through that firewall inside to out? I seen someone mentioned industrial Velcro but I am betting it doesn't stay stuck to the rudder. Contact glue might work but I might want to remove these at a later date and also trying not to do a messy job also.

    You might wan to try some push-pin fasteners, preferably the largest size you can find. Ideally, using a large washer on the side opposite from the insertion point should provide a larger area to hold the insulation in place. Or just try inserting the push-pins so the flared end of the push-pin is inside where the body plastics are. Either way, the larger the surface you can place against the insulation, the more likely the insulation will not pull thru and will stay in place.

    Quote from DJohnson

    @FunCycle Can those holes be reached from the engine compartment?

    You cannot get to them from the engine compartment without removing the engine. Even then some of it is hard to get to. You MIGHT be able to get to part of it if you remove the PCM tray but it won't be easy and you won't be able to get to the steering shaft area. I JUST did this last week while the engine was out and all 5'11" and 200lbs on my back upside down for most of the foot well install. It didn't turn out as pretty as I had hoped but it's not like anyone is ever looking down in there. I used aluminized heat retardant fabric and sprayed 3M super 77 adhesive on the back and put it in the engine side and also in the foot well, sandwiching it all together. I then covered the entire job in 3M aluminum duct sealing tape on both sides. Everything is sealed up pretty good. It likely won't be perfect but should be a drastic improvement from getting my ankles melted off every summer when the fans kick on. Really makes me miss my rear mounted radiator that kept the front fans from coming on and pulled all the heat out the back. I had to remove that for our rear exit exhaust. You can only fit so much shit in the trans tunnel.


    ZZPerformance EST 2000 - Go Fast Not Broke

    Audio goal achieved - keep ride command and also get a decent sounding system. I swapped out the under-dash sub box with two 6" JL subs in it for the passenger side storage F1 box from Jonathan Taylor on FB. It's has one JL 10" older style sub in it and I'm where I want to be on the thumps. That under-dash box had decent bass, but just wouldn't hit hard (selling cheap if anyone interested) like this actual box does and I'm pretty sure it has to do with air flow and actually having a ported box now. Also fixed my hot glue stock kick panel speaker holders with some SSV ones. My cheap way worked and I did reuse the OEM pods, but it looked like crap... have some wiring to loom up and good to go!


    Quote from Kyle D

    You cannot get to them from the engine compartment without removing the engine. Even then some of it is hard to get to. You MIGHT be able to get to part of it if you remove the PCM tray but it won't be easy and you won't be able to get to the steering shaft area. I JUST did this last week while the engine was out and all 5'11" and 200lbs on my back upside down for most of the foot well install. It didn't turn out as pretty as I had hoped but it's not like anyone is ever looking down in there. I used aluminized heat retardant fabric and sprayed 3M super 77 adhesive on the back and put it in the engine side and also in the foot well, sandwiching it all together. I then covered the entire job in 3M aluminum duct sealing tape on both sides. Everything is sealed up pretty good. It likely won't be perfect but should be a drastic improvement from getting my ankles melted off every summer when the fans kick on. Really makes me miss my rear mounted radiator that kept the front fans from coming on and pulled all the heat out the back. I had to remove that for our rear exit exhaust. You can only fit so much shit in the trans tunnel.


    Thank You Kyle D. Did you get this info DJohnson

    I used Gorilla brand duct tape from Lowes under my dash and around my glove box, trying to keep the dirt out of it. Did it last spring and it's still holding! For the big opening around the steering shaft I cut a couple of inches off a pool noodle and taped that in there.

    @dalton202 Pool Noodle now that is a easy fix and I have several colors. I have some 1/4" and 1/8" black rubber sheet material on order. I was going to order the 3M 77 but see in the specs that it is good to 110 degrees and I bet in the summer it gets that hot with engine heat and road temps. I ordered 3M heavy duty double stick tape and will use the primer with it. Might last and it might not.

    If the music is to loud you are to old.

    Quote from dalton202

    I used Gorilla brand duct tape from Lowes under my dash and around my glove box, trying to keep the dirt out of it. Did it last spring and it's still holding! For the big opening around the steering shaft I cut a couple of inches off a pool noodle and taped that in there.

    I had not thought about that one. Cut it the right length and I do not even think you would have to tape it.

    I also have some 4" dia 1" thick black packing foam that I could cut and stuff in the other holes. I wonder when winter comes if we may want to open those holes back up. A vent that one could open and close might be a nice mod.

    If the music is to loud you are to old.

    Quote from DJohnson

    I also have some 4" dia 1" thick black packing foam that I could cut and stuff in the other holes. I wonder when winter comes if we may want to open those holes back up. A vent that one could open and close might be a nice mod.

    You do not have to do that, just pull the cup holders out and find a couple of pvc street Ell that fit and insert into the holes. They are also directional. I alreadyhave a couple of them but cannot lay my hands on them right now.

    I just went to the dollar store for the pool noodle, to try. I cut it about 4 inch long. I left 3 1/2 inch at the original Dia. The the other end I cut down to 1 1/2 inch Dia and 1/2 inch long. So it would insert thru the fire wall, the rest will wrap the column up to the collar. I have not tried to install yet, I am still working on it and have to put some black paint on it. Looks like it will really work and is easy to do.