What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies....?

    Quote from FunCycle

    the 2015 and the 2016 have the fog light wires, I am not sure about the other years

    I just watched a vid on YouTube about hood pads and while he was gabbing away about them, I was looking at the engine compartment and sure enough, I saw the small wire loom that shoots down from the bigger loom on earlier models and contains the fog light wires. My 2019 most certainly does not have those.

    "If I were a Jedi, there's a 100% chance I would use the force inappropriately!"

    That just means adding a fuse block and running the wires. A little more complicated, but still doable. I had originally hooked up the Fog Light circuit to power the Auxiliary headlights after having my headlights go out during a night ride before the original Headlight recall fix. Now that I run LEDs in the headlights, I have the Outer Auxiliary units connected to the same circuit you pictured above that powers the CH units. I have the MadStad Ultimate Bumper with the LED lights now connected to the Fog Light circuit. I plan on rewiring my headlights so my new Hella Low Beam outer headlights will be on a different circuit completely independent of the main headlight circuit so even if the Main center headlights and the new ouiter Hella High beam units should completely fail, I'll still have the outer Low beams and the bumper LEDS to get home safely.

    I think I over-complicated my response above. You can still use the CH connectors to power the fog lights as long as you're using LED fog lights since LED have much lower draw than halogen bulbs. You'll need to figure out which wire in the CH connector powers Low beam and then loop that wire back to a switch in the dash to make the Fog Lights switchable. To be safe, I'd still recommend adding a new relay for the Fog Lights so that you only have a minimal current thru the new Fog Lights switch. If you use a switch with a higher rating that your Fog lights, then you can skip the relay. Relays just allow you to run a low-power circuit thru the switch which then uses a relay to trigger full power to the Fog Lights. Have someone check your circuit if you have any doubts about how to wire things.

    Slingmods offers this Relay/Fuse Block unit which is designed to bolt right in place on the Slingshot - https://www.slingmods.com/pola…laris-slingshot?vehicle=3. I bought a similar relay/Fuse Block off EBay, but haven't gotten around to making the custom mounting plate that comes with the MadStad kit. Assuming the MadStad kit uses a similarly iwred rely & fuse block, it's worth the cost to just buy the unit pre-wired and designed to fit the Slingshot, if you need a relay/fuse block.

    I hope this post made sense!

    Edited 2 times, last by BKL ().

    Quote from BKL

    That just means adding a fuse block and running the wires. A little more complicated, but still doable. I had originally hooked up the Fog Light circuit to power the Auxiliary headlights after having my headlights go out during a night ride before the original Headlight recall fix. Now that I run LEDs in the headlights, I have the Outer Auxiliary units connected to the same circuit you pictured above that powers the CH units. I have the MadStad Ultimate Bumper with the LED lights now connected to the Fog Light circuit. I plan on rewiring my headlights so my new Hella Low Beam outer headlights will be on a different circuit completely independent of the main headlight circuit so even if the Main center headlights and the new ouiter Hella High beam units should completely fail, I'll still have the outer Low beams and the bumper LEDS to get home safely.

    I think I over-complicated my response above. You can still use the CH connectors to power the fog lights as long as you're using LED fog lights since LED have much lower draw than halogen bulbs. You'll need to figure out which wire in the CH connector powers Low beam and then loop that wire back to a switch in the dash to make the Fog Lights switchable. To be safe, I'd still recommend adding a new relay for the Fog Lights so that you only have a minimal current thru the new Fog Lights switch. If you use a switch with a higher rating that your Fog lights, then you can skip the relay. Relays just allow you to run a low-power circuit thru the switch which then uses a relay to trigger full power to the Fog Lights. Have someone check your circuit if you have any doubts about how to wire things.

    Slingmods offers this Relay/Fuse Block unit which is designed to bolt right in place on the Slingshot - https://www.slingmods.com/pola…laris-slingshot?vehicle=3. I bought a similar relay/Fuse Block off EBay, but haven't gotten around to making the custom mounting plate that comes with the MadStad kit. Assuming the MadStad kit uses a similarly iwred rely & fuse block, it's worth the cost to just buy the unit pre-wired and designed to fit the Slingshot, if you need a relay/fuse block.

    I hope this post made sense!

    Yes, it all makes perfect sense and thanks for the info. I suspected that I could use those CH leads to power the LED fog lights I have, like you suggested and simply run wires to a switch in the dash, however, I've decided to leave that circuit intact. One day, I may decide to purchase the CH conversion. Coincidentally, I ordered a fuse block yesterday. The MadStad is a little outta my budget, so I ordered the FZ-1 and the wiring harness, along with an OEM rocker switch for the dash. The only question I forgot to ask was what guage electrical wire is suitable for a low amp circuit? And thanks for the advice about using a relay. I wasn't clear on whether I would need one, but thanks to your explanation of how it would protect the switch, I now know to check the rating of the switch when it arrives and then adjust fire as needed.

    "If I were a Jedi, there's a 100% chance I would use the force inappropriately!"

    Nothing wrong with the FZ-1. I referenced the other since it includes both fuses and relays for longer switch life. I think I might have ordered an FZ-1, too, but if I did, I'm not sure where I left it! I have a habit of ordering stuff for later use and then not remembering where I put it.

    It's also possible to just install a relay outside the fuse block. You just need to run the power wires and switch wires to the relay and then run the relay output to the device.

    As far load-sizing cables, it's a combination of the amperage and the distance the wire runs. Shorter lengths can usually get by with smaller wire gauges. Here's a good article with a chart on wire size/load/distance - http://www.my-car-computer.com/carputer-wiring.html. For example 16 ga wire can carry 3.5A upto 25ft or 25A for 3ft and as a result is a relatively safe choice for a lot of automotive wiring situations. Just remember to include the total distance from power source (fuse block or battery, depending on the situation) to the relay (if used) and then on to the device. If not using a relay, make sure the switch is approved for at least the current draw of the device.

    Edited 2 times, last by BKL ().

    Quote from BKL

    Nothing wrong with the FZ-1. I referenced the other since it includes both fuses and relays for longer switch life. I think I might have ordered an FZ-1, too, but if I did, I'm not sure where I left it! I have a habit of ordering stuff for later use and then not remembering where I put it.

    It's also possible to just install a relay outside the fuse block. You just need to run the power wires and switch wires to the relay and then run the relay output to the device.

    As far load-sizing cables, it's a combination of the amperage and the distance the wire runs. Shorter lengths can usually get by with smaller wire gauges. Here's a good article with a chart on wire size/load/distance - http://www.my-car-computer.com/carputer-wiring.html. For example 16 ga wire can carry 3.5A upto 25ft or 25A for 3ft and as result is a relatively safe choice for a lot of automotive wiring situations. Just remember to include the total distance from power source (fuse block or battery, depending on the situation) to the relay (if used) and then on to the device. If not using a relay, make sure the switch is approved for at least the current draw of the device.

    You're my hero!

    "If I were a Jedi, there's a 100% chance I would use the force inappropriately!"

    I decided to tackle the aero catch hood pins. Got one side almost done today, just waiting for the longer screws to get delivered then I’ll start on the other side. It’s not a small job, lots of time cutting out the hood subframe for the bottom plate to fit but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out so far.


    Also started the DDM oil cooler install. Top quality parts in this kit! I also love the black hoses in this kit. I’m going for a stock/factory-ish look, nothing flashy and I like how it’s coming together.

    I picked up these LED pucks from Home Depot and fastened one to the inside of my Slingshade. Not too bright, just right for finding things in the glove box or for those rare occasions when you need to locate your license and registration... 😁


    "If I were a Jedi, there's a 100% chance I would use the force inappropriately!"

    You guys did some cool stuff today nice! I did drop one of these craftsman bottle cap wrenches off for my buddy. In his garage the past few weeks and didn't see one so when I saw online figured we both needed one for our tool boxes! Merry Christmas Eve to you all!