What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies....?

    todays mod - Metricks hood lift assist kit


    everything you get



    rightsize before


    after install



    for my review and observations see post # 45 here

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

    Quote from Frankie55

    DDMWorks 3-way adjustable shocks. Installed this morning. South Jersey is flat as a pancake but does have some twisties. Set the shocks in the center of the soft street riding set-up. Went on a search for the bumpiest roads I know and all the manhole covers I could find. What a difference! After 4+ years of riding this is the mod I should have gotten a long time ago! Compared to the stock shocks it feels like floating. Did some aggressive twisties and felt a bit mushy so I bumped up the compression and rebound a notch. Will test next ride and go from there. Yea, they really do make a big difference in ride quality! Great product!



    Those sure are some purdy shocks you have there..🙂

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    After taking a ride yesterday of around 100 miles, I realized my drive belt needs adjusting. It's tracking too far to the right and I get a constant noise when accelerating or at constant speed. backing off the gas eliminates the noise. I guess I'll try aligning the belt and pulley first.

    Quote from BKL

    After taking a ride yesterday of around 100 miles, I realized my drive belt needs adjusting. It's tracking too far to the right and I get a constant noise when accelerating or at constant speed. backing off the gas eliminates the noise. I guess I'll try aligning the belt and pulley first.

    2332-image-jpeg




    Please inform. Mine is tracking to far outboard. As the procedure explains in the note, turn the pivot shaft counterclockwise to move the belt inboard on the driven sprocket. I bought the 30 MM socket & 22 MM and attempted as instructed (although it initially does not instruct to first break the torque on the pivot shaft and then temporally retorque to 20 ft lbs. I did that). I tried placing the jack under the slingshot, under the swing arm, "walking" the swingarm by repeat the full process in small increments, Turning the pivot shaft first counterclockwise as instructed then clockwise. Everything which way. I did notice on my slingshot the belt originally sat far outboard on the drive sprocket and after attempting to adjust the only belt movement I managed was to move the belt to a point it actually tracked about 1/8 in. off the drive sprocket. Not good, so I adjusted to bring the belt back to it's original setting on the drive sprocket. Did a test ride rechecked to be sure the belt still tracked ok on the front sprocket. Then called it a day.

    If I understand the process (a BIG IF:/), The belt, when properly adjusted, should ride close to the inner side of the pulley with only a small amount of the pulley teeth visible. I noticed after tightening everything up thatmy belt was riding closer to the outside of the pulley. If you haven't seen samowens44's maintenance videos on YouTube, give them a try.

    Here's his Belt Alignment video -

    Here's his Belt Tension video -

    . As samowens44 mentions in his video, be careful when loosening/tightening the belt tension nut. As he cautioned, I found 1/4 turn to actually be a little more than I needed and I found it difficult to get the belt to loosen afterwards. IIRC, @samowens recommends around 3/8"+/- belt deflection when checking the tension, but I have seen others recommend between 1/2-1" deflection, especially for older belts with mileage on them. The belt should be good for 150K miles (I have around 64K miles) and my belt tension was just under 1/2". I wonder if the tension on my belt is contributing to the noise since the belt didn't seem to be rubbing against either side of the pulley.

    Here's a video from YouTuber Just Jay providing a very concise Belt tension adjustment video -

    Quote from BKL

    If I understand the process (a BIG IF:/), The belt, when properly adjusted, should ride close to the inner side of the pulley with only a small amount of the pulley teeth visible. I noticed after tightening everything up thatmy belt was riding closer to the outside of the pulley. If you haven't seen samowens44's maintenance videos on YouTube, give them a try.

    Here's his Belt Alignment video -

    Here's his Belt Tension video -

    . As samowens44 mentions in his video, be careful when loosening/tightening the belt tension nut. As he cautioned, I found 1/4 turn to actually be a little more than I needed and I found it difficult to get the belt to loosen afterwards. IIRC, @samowens recommends around 3/8"+/- belt deflection when checking the tension, but I have seen others recommend between 1/2-1" deflection, especially for older belts with mileage on them. The belt should be good for 150K miles (I have around 64K miles) and my belt tension was just under 1/2". I wonder if the tension on my belt is contributing to the noise since the belt didn't seem to be rubbing against either side of the pulley.

    Here's a video from YouTuber Just Jay providing a very concise Belt tension adjustment video -

    Thanks, I have seen them. Mine is as yours is riding to the outboard side but it's also riding on the very outside of the drive (front) sprocket leaving a very slim margin of movement of the swingarm to the right in order to bring the belt into correct position without taking the belt out on the front sprocket.


    It's not bad as far as squeal noise. Just looking for better if I can get it. I got no movement on the rear sprocket turning the wheel by hand. Perhaps it really needs to be driven with more tension on the belt to produce a shift? I think I'll revisit an attempt when the weather gets warmer here. Just do small increments then tighten to specs and test.


    Mine really isn't bad as far as noise. For the small cost of two sockets, I thought it was worth it to get it in the best position possible. Please keep posted as to your results.

    Quote from BKL

    After taking a ride yesterday of around 100 miles, I realized my drive belt needs adjusting. It's tracking too far to the right and I get a constant noise when accelerating or at constant speed. backing off the gas eliminates the noise. I guess I'll try aligning the belt and pulley first.

    OK, I know that you have already tried this, but did you scrub the belt good?


    My experience and some thoughts when adjusting the belt: Drive Belt, FYI, What it should not do back there!


    Our belt belt tends to move outward during acceleration, a tighter belt moves less than a loose belt.


    Bill

    Thanks Bill, I need to move the swingarm outboard just a bit. After rereading the procedure I suppose step 3 is the part I was wasn't clear on. I interpreted that step as snug the nut then temporary torque the nut to 20 ft lbs. The manual isn't very clear. I wish it wasn't so cold out today. In the 20's. Can't wait to give it a try!


    Quote from BKL

    I thought I read someplace that temps above 60-70 were best for adjusting the drive belt. Forecast here is for a high of 78, but 50-80% chance of rain. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to adjust belt alignment even if I need to wait until later to test the alignment.

    Yep, it's in the repair manual, 60-80 degrees, but that is really only relevant if you plan on adjusting the belt deflection to factory, or other specific, specifications. What is more important is that you realize that as the belt warms it also tightens, and vice versa. Otherwise, if you are adjusting alignment, belt tension becomes less relevant other than keeping in mind the looser the belt, when you are accelerating the more it will travel across, and towards the outside of, the sprocket. The concern here is if it comes into contact with the outside lip of the rear sprocket, which is the cause of a large portion of squealing issues, other than a dirty belt. And also a reason why a cold belt will squeal until it warms up or, at least that is what happens with ours.


    Bill

    I think part of my noise during acceleration or steady speed is because I have my belt too tight at just under 1/2". I had trouble getting the belt to loosen so I guess I'll give your tip from the other thread a try. I've seen several posts recommend a looser belt than spec, .5-1", IIRC. I assume that a looser belt is good as long as it's not so loose that the belt starts skipping teeth

    Quote from DJohnson

    Other then noise has anyone heard of a belt breaking on a Slingshot because of being out of adjustment?

    The only time I had an issue was launching on 10psi on a fully prepped track with a full slick on the rear. Even then my belt only skipped in the first 2 gears and sheared off a couple teeth from being too loose, but I still finished the 1/4mi. I've never even heard of anyone snapping one. I also run mine a touch tighter than recommended to mitigate the skipping. There is a fine line of just tight enough over spec and too tight though. Too tight and you'll actually lose trap speed in the 1/4 and cause premature wear on that rear bearing.

    ZZPerformance EST 2000 - Go Fast Not Broke

    I think it was prolly 30 years ago I was good friends with one of the local Harley dealers and would hang out there whenever I got a chance. Guy rode in saying his belt split. When they looked at it there was a rock caught in the pulley. When they took it off it was in two pieces. If he could still ride it with a belt that strong I can’t imagine they have gotten weaker in all this time - take something major to break a belt IMO.

    I might not be right but I can sure sound like it