Which week?
Just like it says...This week
I must be having fun, because time sure does fly! Admittedly, I was wondering if/when I'd get called out on this one
Which week?
Just like it says...This week
I must be having fun, because time sure does fly! Admittedly, I was wondering if/when I'd get called out on this one
Just like it says...This week
I must be having fun, because time sure does fly! Admittedly, I was wondering if/when I'd get called out on this one
I'm patiently waiting Bill ..... Good things come to those who wait for them!
Picked up on the dark side about this combo of Viking Performance shocks and coilovers being used
"Part numbers for Viking DA coilovers Front (2) C208 $189.95 each total $379.90 Rear (1) C212 $189.95 eachFront springs 12/200 $39.95 each total $79.90 Rear spring 14/200 $49.95 each"
Seems to be a good value (high end adjustables at reasonable cost). Only issue I had is that they didn't come with the right bushings and there was a lot of jury-rigging to install including an inordinate amount of washers. I emailed Viking and asked if they could do a kit with the proper hardware and this was their response:
"We do have a more factory setup that reuses factory shock spacer, the most you would have to do is spread the upper mount a bit to get the .05" bigger poly they are fairly easy to open up with a wood board. If you want to call in I can talk over it with you. I have seen some of the bearing ones that people do and I think we have a better way of doing it. For the lower mount on the shocks since its wider than a standard poly bushing, we have you take the factory spacer out of the shock insert it into the sleeve that we supply then using a hammer tap on some almost press fit washers so everything is nice and tight fitting. Its really easy and can be done in just a few minutes, I have attached a picture of what it looks like, this is our poly with a steel sleeve, factory shock steel sleeve and 2 washers that press onto the factory steel sleeve with a hammer. Also I included a picture of the upper mount bushing set up there you can see our poly with our sleeve and the factory sleeve out of the shock. As you can see the poly is a bit wider so you just have to open the mount up a bit to slide it in then you will tighten it all together crushing the poly down to the steel sleeves. Let me know if you got any other questions or if you need more information."
Thanks,John Peterfeso
EngineerViking Performance,Inc
21401 Hemlock AveLakeville, MN 55044P:
952-469-4130F: 952-469-4132
jpeterfeso@vi-king.comwww.vi-king.com
Hyper Coil Springs
.................................................................... tom n carol
I seriously like the blanket that they are on. Two thumbs up. My grandfather had one of those blankets on his truck seat. It just reminds me of riding in his truck.
I love my QA1 coilovers. Anytime you have a non adjustable shock/spring you can automatically assume the manufacturer has opted for the most safe and generic settings. This is not always a big issue. Especially if your not trying to squeeze every ounce of performance and handling out of it. The bad side is that it just doesn't lend itself to high performance at all. If you purchase a set of adjustable coil overs and get the correct weight springs you WILL notice a big difference in handling and a big difference on the highway at regular road speeds.
I hope hahn comes out with a kit soon for us plug and play types
I hope hahn comes out with a kit soon for us plug and play types
Don't worry---he's gonna tell us "this week"
Ive got the JRI 2 Way's and I really like them. Love being able to adjust from highway driving to stiffer for the twisties.
Yes, it's always best to be stiffer when working with the curves... Oh, wait... Well, yeah, that still works...
Yes, it's always best to be stiffer when working with the curves... Oh, wait... Well, yeah, that still works...
Always must have the proper tools for the job! lol Go from soft to hard in the blink of an eye
Always must have the proper tools for the job! lol Go from soft to hard in the blink of an eye
have you been talking to my wife?
Always must have the proper tools for the job! lol Go from soft to hard in the blink of an eye
My problem is that I have no control over this action.... Seems like it gets worse ever since i turned 40
I have the Alpha/JRIs powder coated blue
I have alpha (previous owner mod) and just read this whole thread...
What are good settings? I just turned them all the way one way, then counted the full rotations to the opposite side, and went back to the "middle"... I know this likely isn't best. I'd like a comfier ride if possible. I always catch air when hitting bumps... Granted it may be the speed, but I'm sure there's a better setting than what I did...
It's a base with SL wheels/tires and I'm about 160lbs.
Thanks Slingers!
Display MoreI have alpha (previous owner mod) and just read this whole thread...
What are good settings? I just turned them all the way one way, then counted the full rotations to the opposite side, and went back to the "middle"... I know this likely isn't best. I'd like a comfier ride if possible. I always catch air when hitting bumps... Granted it may be the speed, but I'm sure there's a better setting than what I did...
It's a base with SL wheels/tires and I'm about 160lbs.
Thanks Slingers!
I'm running the Jri adjustables as well. I usually run negative ten clicks in the front and negative 35 clicks in the back when on the twisted up roads or track. I run at negative 55 clicks all the way around when just riding easy. What settings do you guys like?
Display MoreI have alpha (previous owner mod) and just read this whole thread...
What are good settings? I just turned them all the way one way, then counted the full rotations to the opposite side, and went back to the "middle"... I know this likely isn't best. I'd like a comfier ride if possible. I always catch air when hitting bumps... Granted it may be the speed, but I'm sure there's a better setting than what I did...
It's a base with SL wheels/tires and I'm about 160lbs.
Thanks Slingers!
You can always contact Alpha or JRi to get more info....but you probably won't have to... Cameron Roberts and many others can tutor you on the ins and outs!
Thanks @DKF Texas and @Cameron Roberts!
If you don't mind, tell me more about these "clicks" you speak of... I'm sure it's the feedback from turning the dial, but what's my starting point? How do I get calibrated?
Thanks @DKF Texas and @Cameron Roberts!
If you don't mind, tell me more about these "clicks" you speak of... I'm sure it's the feedback from turning the dial, but what's my starting point? How do I get calibrated?
Always start from full firm and work negative numbers. Twist the dial all the way to the + side until it stops moving. Then you can feel the clicks as you adjust toward the negative. Negative 55 is as soft as they go even if there are more clicks past that point. At negative 55 they are wide open.
FYI: On the QA1's, it's the opposite. You start from full soft (turn counter clockwise until it stops), then turn clockwise to add more resistance/damping.