Posts by Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    welcome to our discussion - long time no hear. You might think me and WOLF are arch rivals but we really aren’t - we just love breaking each other’s balls. Lookin forward to buying him a ribeye and fine Kentucky bourbon one of these days (if he ain’t a tee toting vegan which is possible 😂😂). Feel free to make a middle of the road comments - a lot of us are more middle of the road than you would think from the comments. Everybody really needs to move to the center more - there just aren’t any candidates that meet that criteria to support.

    Heya Mr. Bill!

    Oh no, it's not you two that are the arch-rivals...it's the respective political alignments I see here, just as I see them everywhere today. There is no allowance for moderates, or even moderation, in today's climate...which is a shame because we middle-roaders likely outnumber the extremists at each end of the spectrum. A two-party system is designed to keep society in a state of essential suspended animation where converging upon actualities and realities is concerned. It's a time-proven method of control. There will be no compromise, for to reach out and embrace is perceived as weak and disloyal. This has always been the case, at least since other competing parties were worn away over a century ago, but it's never been so evident as today.

    A shame, really. Sure puts a dim glow on the "United" part of USA.

    It's an interesting item of debate, for sure. To be fair, in my opinion a 50 amp DC circuit has no business being constrained by the limitations of slide-together terminals in the first place, but so it goes in today's assembly line strategies.

    Reducing the amount of amperage the blade terminals have to carry is a move in the right direction. But let me be clear: the rate of failure of such a connection is a combination of factors, correct fitment and terminal behavior being but one, maximum amperage carried being another.

    I'm not so sure that additional current in and of itself is the culprit. It's not a consistent causal aspect, not on Slingshot or on the modern cars we see similar terminal issues with. Some stockers get the malady. Most highly modded ones don't. There's no discernible pattern related to current levels.

    In my purview, this inconsistency points to a different potential cause. The fact is, slide-together blade-style terminals are prone to issues. Their dependence on ideal conditions is high, and their forgiveness for slight imperfections in misalignment and/or tension of fit is low.

    What makes some fail while others don't under identical and/or even more sever current flow? It's all in the fit. The mere presence of metal on metal doesn't a good conduction path make. It's my belief that the problems are instigated at assembly time, perhaps when a less-than-careful line worker jams the connection together with little regard to careful alignment and insertion. One bad slip at this point and the connection is forever besmirched. It may take a while to manifest the issues, but it's not a matter of if...it's a matter of when.

    Hi Bill!

    Yeah, $650 sounds like a great deal! Just two questions...

    1. Can I get 'em in red?

    2. What is the total price with shipping, tax, etc.?

    Yes, we have two reds: a standard bright red, and a darker candy red. Here's what the bright red looks like:



    Total cost in red is $729, shipping varies with region, Florida residents pay sales tax. If you get me your full name, mailing and email addresses, I can send you an invoice with an exact total. Thanks!

    My experience with the Welter is that the whole fitment is a rather organic experience, in that everything ultimately affects everything else. Getting all the pipes to line up just so takes some doing, and you've got some fine tips on this thread: lubing the joints so they'll slide together more readily is a great one, as is marking the pipes so you know when you're not at full penetration.

    I suggest you take these suggestions to heart, which means dismantling, marking, and lubing. At that point, re-assemble and keep an open mind. Twist and urge and experiment until it all goes together as is intended. It will get there. Just be methodical and patient and thorough.

    Now I will be a bit more firm: the title you chose for your thread is a tad severe. Listen, it's not my place to tell you how to conduct yourself in public, I know. Far be it from me to assume that's my role. That said, usually such language is reserved for a more troubling customer experience. I'm confident you'd not want to cast shade, or doubt, upon a company that didn't deserve it. It pays to be a team player in this community. Maybe a title like "Need assistance with Welter exhaust" would have pushed better buttons. Take this as you will, I mean it in the most helpful way possible. We are all in this together, and the team just meshes better when we are teaming, not steaming ;)

    I've yet to study this circuitry, but it seems a case of undersized terminals for the amperage load potential under worse-case conditions, such as in a not-ideal terminal-to-terminal fitment. We see this from time to time on modern automobiles as well. The "plug and ship" modular approach to modern vehicle assembly line operations means we have more and more instances of such terminal pins carrying high current than we would have had back in the day, when there were more continuous conductors and ring-terminal connections on such circuits...slide-together terminals were eschewed for such heavy lifting back then, but ring-style terminals and continuous conductors impart more labor time to install during vehicle assembly. It's a tightrope they walk between excellence and expediency.

    That said, chances are excellent that the miscue here was not strictly inadequate terminal size vs. current. It's inadequate terminal tension and/or contact that's usually the bugaboo, although larger terminals are more unlikely to develop such maladies. During assembly, most of the terminals will seat and contact quite adequately, thus causing no problem over the life of a machine. Then there will be the few that didn't, where the terminals simply did not achieve a quality connection when slid together. In such an instance, sufficient contact is made to transmit power across the connection, but resistance caused by the inadequate contact will create a voltage drop which manifests itself in heat, heat that will ultimately exceed the thermal deformation characteristic of the polymer used for the housing...and so it begins to melt. The downfall of this process is that it is self-worsening as well as self-perpetuating: the more the connection heats up, the worse it gets...and so the more the connection heats up.

    It's just a product of some of these connections when they don't go together great, and as I mention, it's commonplace in today's "snap-together" vehicle manufacturing. It's a roll of the dice: Save time in assembly, hope for the best down the road. Sometimes the equation falters.

    I doubt it poses a notable fire hazard, but all the same, I'm pleased Polaris is treating it as a safety feature and replacing them all. It's another example of a responsible company with integrity seeing their obligations through to the finish line. No machine is perfect. What matters is what a manufacturer does when imperfections surface. Polaris has proved over and over that they remain true to the cause.



    We've pulled out the stops and really stepped up to the plate on this Group Buy as part of our BOOSTOBER sale! Here's the pedal-to-the-metal deal:

    Double Adjustable, starting at $649, regular price $899 - a $250 savings!
    Triple Adjustable, starting at $849, regular price $1149 - a $300 savings!

    That's genuine Hahn/QA1 quality and performance, for the same price as knockoff imitations! We've simply never offered a lower price. Ten participants are all we need to get this amazing pricing to you good folks. Once we have ten, we will submit the order to QA1 for the parts they make, then when the order arrives we will build out the kits with the parts we make! From the time we place that order to the time we ship the completed systems is about two weeks. We will keep all the Group members apprised as the group grows to ten and as the process progresses.

    Get on board, this is a deal you don't want to pass up! Our bolt-in Hahn/QA1 Coilovers are a complete installation package (including spring adjusting wrenches) and have been immensely popular and well-liked by our customers. We've added even more spring colors to suit...but let us know if you want a color you don't see on our webpage! They come preset to stock height, but can be raised or lowered as your desires dictate. Using the adjustment knobs, they are easily dialed from plush comfort to corner-carving precision in seconds! Testimonials include "a Lexus-smooth ride" and "best mod I ever made!". You will only be impressed at the profound difference a quality suspension system can make on your Slingshot, especially one you can adjust to your own particular preferences.

    The links below can help you get better acquainted with this outstanding product. If you'd like some face time, just call me at 386-238-9292, or email sales@hahnracecraft.com.

    Click here for our Hahn/QA1 Spherical Coilovers Webpage

    Click for Installation Video: Hahn/QA1 Spherical Coilovers

    Click for Hahn/QA1 Coilovers FAQ's

    What follows are just a few of the colors we offer:




    A point of some interest: it's a common misconception that a sensor replacement will fix codes. While this is true in some cases, the code isn't stating that sensor replacement is the remedy. It's merely showing us that the sensor system or circuit in question has behaved in a fashion that exceeds parameters for the monitoring routines assigned.

    The actual fault can be many things, and at times can even be spurious as noted above. To determine the actual cause, a diagnostician equipped with the capability and documentation will run a series of tests which take into account numerous aspects, including wiring, connectors, voltage performance, resistance, PCM, and a host of other possibilities. Anything else is just guesswork.

    Over the years, I've seen innumerable sensors replaced that didn't actually address the actual problem at hand, so I thought I'd toss this out there. Proper diagnostic approach is the most effective, and usually, least costly method in terms of cost and inconvenience vs. dependable

    results.