We are edging closer to bringing this to full production based on the positive response so far, in two versions: one that would accommodate Slingshade-equipped machines (such as the one shown in this thread), as well as one for those with no top whatsoever. I'l keep y'all posted!
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I doubt we can ever reconcile the public's widespread preference for automatics using our own sensibilities as a yardstick. Indeed, at the end of the day, such ruminations are largely irrelevant to Polaris' intention, which is merely to sell more units. We can argue the relative merits of eschewing the manual life, doing so along the lines of our own stick-shifty desires, until the cows come home....and as the prospective buyers of automatics can and will perform exactly the same mental exercise using their own preferences, the two effectively cancel each other out.
Myself, I'm pragmatic, so I always like to see the practicality of a situation emphasized over the opinions/preferences side, which I admittedly find much less interesting. Everyone likes what they like. I get that, and I embrace it, even applaud it...all the same, that doesn't mean I find endless dissertations on same even remotely engaging. Listening to someone trying to convince me/all that their preference is somehow "better" for this reason or that leads me to lose interest...perchance to daydream about more visceral things, like racing and sex and wicked rock n' roll. So if you ever see me drifting away smiling during a conversation, this is likely to be a reason why.
The practicality I like in this instance? More Slingshots sold, more cool people to meet getting into the game who might not have otherwise. So they shift differently than me. So long as it's the way THEY want to shift, I'm completely down with that.
Thanks Kev, great stuff! Any word yet on specifics like bore and stroke or displacement? I am assuming it's a lighter engine than Ecotec, but that would only be an absolute necessity if the Autodrive automatic were in fact heavier than the Aisan 5-speed, which is by no means a lightweight unit, having been designed for much heavier and more powerful vehicles than Slingshot at its maximum torque capacity.
That said, even if Autodrive is no lighter than the Aisan, a lighter engine than Ecotec would open up some possibilities elsewhere on the machine to add features and their concurrent additional weight, so there's still an argument for a lighter engine.
Looks like the new engine design is edging ever closer to the motorcycle engine designs we've rotated the planet with for nigh five decades now, so that's a big plus for Hahn RaceCraft!
Having now spoken to the original installer of the soundsystem, what we have to do is remove the dash upper panel, which will also necessitate removing the Slingshade. And off we go, tools-a-spinnin!
Thanks MADDMOE for the assist.
Have a customer vehicle with this Pioneer audio system installed, it's a 2017 Slingshot. It also incorporates the visor shown. So far it has resisted my typical efforts at removing it, leading me to believe it has a unique method of attachment. Would any of you kind folks happen to know the method for removal?
Tuesday is here...and almost gone. Have you signed up for the best price EVER to transform your Slingshot's suspension?
welcome to our discussion - long time no hear. You might think me and WOLF are arch rivals but we really aren’t - we just love breaking each other’s balls. Lookin forward to buying him a ribeye and fine Kentucky bourbon one of these days (if he ain’t a tee toting vegan which is possible 😂😂). Feel free to make a middle of the road comments - a lot of us are more middle of the road than you would think from the comments. Everybody really needs to move to the center more - there just aren’t any candidates that meet that criteria to support.
Heya Mr. Bill!
Oh no, it's not you two that are the arch-rivals...it's the respective political alignments I see here, just as I see them everywhere today. There is no allowance for moderates, or even moderation, in today's climate...which is a shame because we middle-roaders likely outnumber the extremists at each end of the spectrum. A two-party system is designed to keep society in a state of essential suspended animation where converging upon actualities and realities is concerned. It's a time-proven method of control. There will be no compromise, for to reach out and embrace is perceived as weak and disloyal. This has always been the case, at least since other competing parties were worn away over a century ago, but it's never been so evident as today.
A shame, really. Sure puts a dim glow on the "United" part of USA.
It's an interesting item of debate, for sure. To be fair, in my opinion a 50 amp DC circuit has no business being constrained by the limitations of slide-together terminals in the first place, but so it goes in today's assembly line strategies.
Reducing the amount of amperage the blade terminals have to carry is a move in the right direction. But let me be clear: the rate of failure of such a connection is a combination of factors, correct fitment and terminal behavior being but one, maximum amperage carried being another.
So where do us middle-of-the roaders fit here? All I see is two arch-rivals slogging it out...
I'm not so sure that additional current in and of itself is the culprit. It's not a consistent causal aspect, not on Slingshot or on the modern cars we see similar terminal issues with. Some stockers get the malady. Most highly modded ones don't. There's no discernible pattern related to current levels.
In my purview, this inconsistency points to a different potential cause. The fact is, slide-together blade-style terminals are prone to issues. Their dependence on ideal conditions is high, and their forgiveness for slight imperfections in misalignment and/or tension of fit is low.
What makes some fail while others don't under identical and/or even more sever current flow? It's all in the fit. The mere presence of metal on metal doesn't a good conduction path make. It's my belief that the problems are instigated at assembly time, perhaps when a less-than-careful line worker jams the connection together with little regard to careful alignment and insertion. One bad slip at this point and the connection is forever besmirched. It may take a while to manifest the issues, but it's not a matter of if...it's a matter of when.
Thursday Bump for the best Slingshot suspension deal going!
Looks like we've got Doc in the boat...surely more of you would like to transform your Sling's suspension for as little as $649?
Was about 88 here today. Fall can come ANYTIME!
Looks like a helluva shop, Bill! I do get down to Florida occasionally, I'm gonna have to stop by and see if it looks as good in person as it does here (probably better!)
Just so you know, my wife will make me leave my wallet at home if I go visit you place!
You're always welcome...so is she! Hope to see you when you get down this way.
So... would this thing act like a sunshade if your sling didn't have a top yet?
Oh yeah, and can mere mortals afford this setup?
The current installation is integral to the Slingshade on the machine. We might explore a stand-alone version if demand is there.
Yeah, $650 sounds like a great deal! Just two questions...
1. Can I get 'em in red?
2. What is the total price with shipping, tax, etc.?
Yes, we have two reds: a standard bright red, and a darker candy red. Here's what the bright red looks like:
Total cost in red is $729, shipping varies with region, Florida residents pay sales tax. If you get me your full name, mailing and email addresses, I can send you an invoice with an exact total. Thanks!
I feel you MaddMoe, and not seeing the other side of the communication stream, it's also hard for me to develop an objective analysis, so I tend to take that middle-of-the-road approach. Hoping you get it figured out with a minimum of fuss!
My experience with the Welter is that the whole fitment is a rather organic experience, in that everything ultimately affects everything else. Getting all the pipes to line up just so takes some doing, and you've got some fine tips on this thread: lubing the joints so they'll slide together more readily is a great one, as is marking the pipes so you know when you're not at full penetration.
I suggest you take these suggestions to heart, which means dismantling, marking, and lubing. At that point, re-assemble and keep an open mind. Twist and urge and experiment until it all goes together as is intended. It will get there. Just be methodical and patient and thorough.
Now I will be a bit more firm: the title you chose for your thread is a tad severe. Listen, it's not my place to tell you how to conduct yourself in public, I know. Far be it from me to assume that's my role. That said, usually such language is reserved for a more troubling customer experience. I'm confident you'd not want to cast shade, or doubt, upon a company that didn't deserve it. It pays to be a team player in this community. Maybe a title like "Need assistance with Welter exhaust" would have pushed better buttons. Take this as you will, I mean it in the most helpful way possible. We are all in this together, and the team just meshes better when we are teaming, not steaming
I've yet to study this circuitry, but it seems a case of undersized terminals for the amperage load potential under worse-case conditions, such as in a not-ideal terminal-to-terminal fitment. We see this from time to time on modern automobiles as well. The "plug and ship" modular approach to modern vehicle assembly line operations means we have more and more instances of such terminal pins carrying high current than we would have had back in the day, when there were more continuous conductors and ring-terminal connections on such circuits...slide-together terminals were eschewed for such heavy lifting back then, but ring-style terminals and continuous conductors impart more labor time to install during vehicle assembly. It's a tightrope they walk between excellence and expediency.
That said, chances are excellent that the miscue here was not strictly inadequate terminal size vs. current. It's inadequate terminal tension and/or contact that's usually the bugaboo, although larger terminals are more unlikely to develop such maladies. During assembly, most of the terminals will seat and contact quite adequately, thus causing no problem over the life of a machine. Then there will be the few that didn't, where the terminals simply did not achieve a quality connection when slid together. In such an instance, sufficient contact is made to transmit power across the connection, but resistance caused by the inadequate contact will create a voltage drop which manifests itself in heat, heat that will ultimately exceed the thermal deformation characteristic of the polymer used for the housing...and so it begins to melt. The downfall of this process is that it is self-worsening as well as self-perpetuating: the more the connection heats up, the worse it gets...and so the more the connection heats up.
It's just a product of some of these connections when they don't go together great, and as I mention, it's commonplace in today's "snap-together" vehicle manufacturing. It's a roll of the dice: Save time in assembly, hope for the best down the road. Sometimes the equation falters.
I doubt it poses a notable fire hazard, but all the same, I'm pleased Polaris is treating it as a safety feature and replacing them all. It's another example of a responsible company with integrity seeing their obligations through to the finish line. No machine is perfect. What matters is what a manufacturer does when imperfections surface. Polaris has proved over and over that they remain true to the cause.