And you have that upgraded blow-off valve that makes it even more deadly 
TURBOS ONLY
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What's the story with the head studs? Anyone have the info?
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From ARP;
Description
It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all-out competetion powerplants. Simply stated, theres not a better stud setup on the market today.For openers, ARP only uses premium grade 8740 alloy and a proprietart ARP2000 alloy that are rated far superior to "aircraft" quality alloy steels. Secondly, each stud is placed vertically into special racks and precisely heat-treated to 200,000 psi for the 8740 material and 220,000 psi for the ARP2000 material. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and the results are far superior to those lesser quality studs from other manufacturers who just dump pieces into a basket and hope for the best.
Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make sure it is as close to perfectly concentric as possible. This procdure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight part. It's important to note lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground - the material is thread rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Becuase ARP studs are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into position and are perfectly aligned - something that won't happen with inferior quality head studs.
ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 2000% (that's twenty times) better fatigue strength than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way, because it's tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort.
Premium quality 8740 and ARP2000 head stud kits are availablefor most all engines. You won't find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Look for ARP stamped on each stud as your assurance of quality. Clearly, they are the best on the market today, and the favorite of leading professional engine builders in all forms of racing.
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I'm definitely glad I went ahead and had Henry change out my head bolts to the ARPs while they were installing the turbo. They set me up for 7 lbs, and even though the new head bolts weren't required for that level, I wanted to have the warm and fuzzies about the head bolts, in case I ever decide to up the boost some day. Turns out, it was a good thing they did!!!!......Troy only found two factory bolts actually torqued properly. The rest appeared to have been torqued to 22 ft lb, and had not had the final torque sequence applied!!!!
Well worth the cost for piece of mind!!!!!! -
FOR you Turbo guys!
A new player on the block... -
who wears mickey mouse ears on the dyno!?!? Lame!!
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it is meant to distract your attention from the final numbers
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Not sure if anyone else noticed that they have a radiator on the back just in front of the rear tire, perhaps an air/water intercooler?
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Not sure if anyone else noticed that they have a radiator on the back just in front of the rear tire, perhaps an air/water intercooler?
Ahhhhh good catch.. I missed that.
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Not sure if anyone else noticed that they have a radiator on the back just in front of the rear tire, perhaps an air/water intercooler?
I noticed it too, but man that thing will get destroyed if there is no fender installed on the rear wheel.
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I guess im a bit spoiled. But did you all notice how long it took for it to make that dyno pull.
I have stopped looking for big HP numbers. You will get big numbers if you have your boost turned up.... I have found that it is more fun now to see how fast that I can make those big HP numbers.
Here is a video i pieced together showing how power delivery is different on my turbo and the DDM supercharger. Ifeel you notice I get to the rev limiter in 4th gear in a bit over a second... The supercharger is more controlled and comes up a bit slower. Some people like the controlled boost. I like to have my heart pound out of my chest with a little bit of fear.
Compare my dyno run with the video above and you will see what I mean.....
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@Shatneyman - Thanks for the props... didn't want to derail the other thread but here is a video and a few pics of a little better quality
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That is one pretty engine bay!
You sexy thing! -
@Shatneyman - Thanks for the props... didn't want to derail the other thread but here is a video and a few pics of a little better quality
Totally awesome!!!! thank you,..... I might need a cigarette now.
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That is one pretty engine bay!
You sexy thing!There have been a few small changes since those pics... @WOLF donated a DDMWorks fuel rail, I replaced that ugly stock oil cap with a billet one, the plastic coolant bottle has been replaced with DDMWorks aluminum one, and the braided stainless hoses for the oil cooler... Guess I need to get some updated pics of the entire engine bay... maybe tomorrow.
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How do you like the EVANS coolant?
Do yo see lower operation temps? -
How do you like the EVANS coolant?
Do yo see lower operation temps?
I have seen much lower temps... unfortunately I don't know how much to attribute to the oil cooler and how much to attribute to the Evans coolant... I did both at the same time. I figured it was cheap insurance to help keep that motor cool though. @lrobbi sold me on the oil cooler and the Evans Coolant. So many great people here have helped me to get my rig to the point it is currently at! -
I may have to give it a try
How complicated was it to flush and prime the system - could be a wrench day project.I run pretty steady at 185 - with the new deflector I made from the splitter to the radiator temps come back down faster when you are moving.
I didn't notice much of a temp drop with the oil cooler -
Guess I need to get some updated pics of the entire engine bay... maybe tomorrow.
Do tell, I love it, I want all that in white. Where did you get it? How did you do it? Please and thank you
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I may have to give it a try
How complicated was it to flush and prime the system - could be a wrench day project.I run pretty steady at 185 - with the new deflector I made from the splitter to the radiator temps come back down faster when you are moving.
I didn't notice much of a temp drop with the oil cooler
My oil cooler is a bit bigger than the DDMWorks one and it is front mounted in front of the radiator. I would imagine I get a bit more of a cooling effect than having it side mounted.The Evans flush isn't complicated per se, but it is a bit of a pain in the ass. I pulled the hoses at a couple locations and used my shop vac to blow air through the lines. It makes a bit of a mess. Then I ran some flush through it, getting up to operating temp, let it cool and drain again. Then I blew air through the lines a second time, tightened everything back up and filled it with the Evans.
