DDMWorks Christmas Vacation.

  • @sideseatdriver...Sweetie, I'm headed out for a bit to run a couple errands. Be back for Christmas.

    Come on to Alabama... I will hook you up with boost... I even have a spare bedroom you can use.


    I dont mind you borrowing it... I bet you would shit a pickle when 8 PSI. The only pain in the butt is having to drill a hole in the engine block for the oil return.

  • @rabtech what color springs did you install before cranking up the Boost with your controller? Would it matter if I kept in My 6-pound spring and use the controller to up the Boost to 15 PSI or more? Would I get different performance having a higher spring psi in there to begin with or does it not matter since the electronic controller takes over?

    I always ride safe sometimes!


    Toys in the Sand Box:
    2016 400hp Alpha Turbo Sling
    2016 BMW s1000rr - Austin Racing
    2015 AR 240 Jet Boat 4,000watt Stereo
    2002 CBR 954
    2003 CRF 450

  • @rabtech what color springs did you install before cranking up the Boost with your controller? Would it matter if I kept in My 6-pound spring and use the controller to up the Boost to 15 PSI or more? Would I get different performance having a higher spring psi in there to begin with or does it not matter since the electronic controller takes over?

    Yea that would create a huge lean spike. Right now you cant really dial in a boost controller and get a safe transition from spring to controller. What you can do (and this defeats having a fall back spring) is put in 10PSI of spring and let the controller carry you up to about 14.


    I would say that with the current tune that Bob offers you would want to stay around 4 psi of the spring pressure... That way it wont lean out so bad when the controller takes over...


    The next question that your going to ask me is ,....... When is Bob going to create a boost controller based tune??? According to the last call I made to Bob it most likely CAN'T be done with the current ECU. I didn't go into details with him. What I will probably end up doing eventually (because I like the features of the boost controller) is going with the Haltec ECU and dash. That way you can have boost by gear and by speed.


    For now the safest way to get the big numbers is by keeping the spring pressure very close to the controller limit.

  • good info! Thank you once again!

    I always ride safe sometimes!


    Toys in the Sand Box:
    2016 400hp Alpha Turbo Sling
    2016 BMW s1000rr - Austin Racing
    2015 AR 240 Jet Boat 4,000watt Stereo
    2002 CBR 954
    2003 CRF 450

  • Come on to Alabama... I will hook you up with boost... I even have a spare bedroom you can use.


    I dont mind you borrowing it... I bet you would shit a pickle when 8 PSI. The only pain in the butt is having to drill a hole in the engine block for the oil return.


    I came up with a pretty easy way to drill and tap the block, much easier than dropping the oil pan. Happy to share if anyone is interested.

  • I'm ...



    @Street Doc ?


    Sorry, I didn't take pictures. I took an air gun with a come shaped end and stuck it into the rebreather hose attached to the valve cover, zip tied the gun's handle down and turned the air compressor to 6 psi. Might be able to.handle more, but I didn't know and didn't want to chance it. This put positive pressure in the engine and the idea was to push out any metal shavings once the bit went through. I thought air would come out, but oil did, so make sure you have something to catch the oil. Once the hole was drilled and tapped, I pulled the oil pan drain plug, took a funnel with a long end on it, and poured 5 quarts of used oil through the drilled hole to flush any shavings out that may have fallen in. Reinstalled the drain plug, installed a 3/8 NPT in the newly drilled hole, filled with new oil and drove about 20 miles. Installed a new oil filter just to be safe. The old filter had no metal shavings in it at all. Took about an hour total.

  • Thanks for sharing... to be clear about this. Are you saying this is an alternative to drilling your oil pan for the "return" oil line from the turbo ? The reason why I'm asking is it sounds like the "block" return hole would be higher than the "pan" return hole. Is it still low enough to adequately gravity feed or drain in this case ?

  • Thanks for sharing... to be clear about this. Are you saying this is an alternative to drilling your oil pan for the "return" oil line from the turbo ? The reason why I'm asking is it sounds like the "block" return hole would be higher than the "pan" return hole. Is it still low enough to adequately gravity feed or drain in this case ?


    Yes. Drilling the block is instead of the oil pan and it is higher, but Hahn sent the correct return line for the return into the block.

  • I have seen the pressurised crankcase method used many times. It works and so does heavy grease on a drill bit. There is just one issue with all those methods. I couldn't sleep at night NOT knowing what I didn't get out. :)


    I think the thing that makes the worst metal shaving or cuttings is when you run that tap down into the hole and it cuts the threads. It makes metal pieces that make me nervous to look at.. And dont forget that there is a baffle in the oil pan that you can't clean out from under unless you pull the pan off and remove the 10mm bolts that hold it.


    It's just to easy to pop the pan off for me not to do it. I can have the pan off in 15 mins. Just take the burp bottle off, take the engine mounts off, and take the nuts off the transmission tail piece. Then jack the bellhousing up till the pan slips out.


    That way you can check the back side of the block and make sure you dont have any loose hanging cuttings waiting to drop in the pan. And you can clean it all up before slapping the pan back on..


    I agree with you that it absolutely can be done the way your talking about. I just can't with my OCD... :-)