My Slingshot just died

  • Well, no luck on the easy stuff. Checked battery and fuse - all good. Checked every single fuse and relay in the fuse box with a multimeter - all good. I switched all the relays and fuses around (switched the 10a Ignition for the 10a ECM, etc). I did note that while I turned on the ignition, my stereo and rear view camera came on plus the lights on the dash. But no head lights, turn signals, or horn working. I really don't want to take it back to this dealer given that he took 8 weeks last time.


    Oh, and my blinker fluid, aluminum magnet, and ignition fluid were all good. The only thing else I can think of is a loose nut between the steering wheel and seat. ^^

  • long shot, but something to try. I have seem a sling I was riding with go dead suddenly. no issues beforehand. Took the 3 ECU connectors off of the computer and reseated them. Sling ran fine after that, and still is. Some reason, got a bad connection and reseating it fixed it. That doesn't explain fuses popping, but can't hurt.


    What fuse number is the one popping. Is it labeled on the fuse cover?

  • ......did you check all 3 fuses in the j box fuse block in the rear near the battery, I would take em out and look at the plugs to see if there any burn marks.........( if you had the recall done it should be 2 in that j box ) check those 2 ............one of em gave me issues and I lost power on the highway ......

  • Absolutely nothing popped on any fuse/breaker/relay.. I will check that ECU connection tho.


    Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    .....my fuse didnt pop either , it just burned the plug and the back of the j box and was the cause of my sling shutting down on me at about 75mph in the left lane on the New Jersey Turnpike and i removed it just like the other fuse from the recall so i only have one fuse in my j box......

  • Pulled the ECU Plugs. And SOAB!! That worked.


    Engine did start. I still had a CH ENG code so when I pushed and held the button, i got this code:




    Anyone know what this code REALLY is? I checked a couple Polaris forums but it seems to be everything from Power Steering to weak battery to "IC CAN communication error with EPS Condition exists" (whatever that means).


    Dave@DDMWorks ??

  • That's strange. My manual shows 520229 and 520231 but not 520230.


    520231 with a subcode 31 is when you leave your key on for 5 minutes without the engine running.


    My manual is for 15/16 model years.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

  • Okay, searching through some of the forums, this seems to be an EPS Relay issue. I've already switched around a bunch of the relays, so I'm not actually sure which was the old EPS relay that threw the error any more. And some of the sites said just unplugging and replugging the relay was enough. So maybe just switching the relays around, and unplugging/replugging the ECM may have cleared whatever temporary connection issue may have been there. So maybe I won't have to take into the dealer.....:/


  • Annnnnnndddddddd It starts right up with no code now. Gremlins. It's Gremlins I tell ya!


    On one trip in Maggie Valley riding with friends one of the Slingshots would start but only run for 30 sec...and dye....let is set for 5 minutes and the same thing. One of the guys called a tech friend and he said disconnect the battery. I turned out to be the hero....did not know how to fix but I DID have the tools. Disconnected the battery and 5 minutes later rehooked and on our way. Yes Gremlins

  • Finally an update with good news. My slingshot has been repaired and is running. The technician wants to test it and make sure it's really fixed. That has been delayed due to rain but I should be able to get it this week.

  • Congrats.


    Do we dare ask how many arms and/or legs you had to leave at the dealership to retrieve your ride?

    The assistant service manager printed out a receipt with a total of $6,461.77 and handed it to me. I told him that was about $4,000 more than I expected. I then pulled out my credit card and asked "who do I pay?" He told me that I had already paid. This confused me until he explained that the amount on the receipt was charged to the Fort Worth store. So, I walked out without having to pay anything for the work they had done. I'm so glad to have it back and it's going to be a little too cold for enjoyable rides.

    Thanks for all the suggestions and words of encouragement.

  • SON OF A BEACH!


    It happened again. Going to work yesterday (30 miles on freeway), it did a quick sputter. RPMs dropped, but it recaught (as I was doing 60+mph). Did the same thing twice on the way home but kept going. Stopped for gas, started up, drove 1 mile down the street and it just died. I was only lucky enough to get it into a center median to get out of the way of traffic.


    Did all the stuff I did before - pulled the ECM cables, pulled out the relays/breakers/fuses - nothing. I noticed I had every light on except the start button. Gave up after 30 mins and called an uber (only 7 miles from home). Got the motorhome (truck is in shop for repairs - that's a whole 'nuther story) and a couple basic tools. Decided to just drive back without pulling out trailer just to see if I could get it started.


    Tried starting, thinking it might have cooled. Nuthin'.

    Pulled the ECM cables again. Nuthin'.

    Pulled all the relays out, mixed them up, put them back in different spots. Nuthin'.

    Pulled each breaker and put them back in one by one. Nuthin'.

    Pulled each fuse to check it. Nuthin'.

    Pulled the ECM and the Ignition 10A breakers (the ones with the red dots) and just flip spots. Started right up! Steering wouldn't work. Stopped engine and restarted right up - everything fine! BTW - No code either!


    WHAT THE F!!


    Drove the SS home - no problem. Got another Uber to drive me back to pick up the motorhome.


    Do these 10A breakers go bad? Can you buy replacements at Autozone?