Hello all, newbie here. I've been doing my homework for a few days and reading threads. One of the first things I'm going to do is install a new horn. The instructions for these mini air horns require running a power wire from the battery which is the biggest PITA of the install. There's one guy out there that says it's much easier to just run a fused line straight from the alternator. That seems to make a lot of sense to me...but it isn't something that seems to be largely accepted. Why not? Is there a reason not to do this? Thanks.
Horn wiring
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Seeing how I was going to have a Neutrino power block for quite a few electrical mods I had planned...I ran a #4 power wire from the battery to the front under the hood while I was doing my radio install. I did install a circuit breaker in that line to protect everything attached to it. If my sling ever had a problem it would be simple to disconnect it from the rest of the vehicle.
I have done the alternator method on past cars with no problems but with the slings iffy wiring harness and the multitude of electrical issues some have experienced I would have to say I didn't want to risk anything I may add or mod could affect something in the electrical system since I would be pulling that current thru the existing harness.
Hope that helps.
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Just buy the Plug and Play horn from slingmods. It's freaking loud and it's easy to install
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Just buy the Plug and Play horn from slingmods. It's freaking loud and it's easy to install
If your talking about the "Electrical Connection Flosser " horn....Yeah I have it and it is everything I wanted on a better horn....It works great and really is easy to install.
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Just buy the Plug and Play horn from slingmods. It's freaking loud and it's easy to install
If only it was in stock
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slingtunes has a horn it s plug and play, nice chrome, pretty loud.
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If only it was in stock
Check directly with elec connection.
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If only it was in stock
I replaced the stock SS horn with dual horns from my Toyota Tundra. They'll get everyone's attention.
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I used the alternator terminal for the horn shortly after buy my SS in 2015. It hasn't caused any problems. I only have horns though.
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I installed dual horns (not air) and simply used the factory plug. No issues in for years of use.
If you're going to run power from the alternator lug you might as well use it for a fuse block. Makes life easier for other add ons.
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Hey CHIEFP were you able to get the horn you were looking for?
Yes, ordered direct from elec connections when slingmods told me it would take a month. On to the next problem. I will be installing some lights for sure at some point (maybe a lot of lights :), so from my reading, I would benefit from an additional fuse block. BUT the horn draws more than 10 amps so I'm left with just the Madstad fuse block option...which is some pricey stuff!
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... I would benefit from an additional fuse block. BUT the horn draws more than 10 amps so I'm left with just the Madstad fuse block option...which is some pricey stuff!
Read up on some of our fuse block builds. Mine was less than $100 total and can run 50 amps through 12 fuses or relays if needed. Basic electrical knowledge is all you need. I used a lot of YouTube videos to figure out mine.
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Yes, ordered direct from elec connections when slingmods told me it would take a month. On to the next problem. I will be installing some lights for sure at some point (maybe a lot of lights :), so from my reading, I would benefit from an additional fuse block. BUT the horn draws more than 10 amps so I'm left with just the Madstad fuse block option...which is some pricey stuff!
Some nice fuse boxes on Amazon, I just installed one.
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Some nice fuse boxes on Amazon, I just installed one.
Yep, where I got my stuff. I didn't need to add the terminal blocks, but it does make it MUCH easier to add/remove/change things without having to change the wiring.
Here's the link to the stuff I bought:
- Main 50A breaker between battery and fuse block
- Fuse block - watch out, there are some with different relay types. I kept it simple - all relays are the same.
- Relays - I just took the wire straight out of the relay mount and plugged it directly into the fuse block. I might suggest finding ones with longer wires - these 5-1/2" wires were just a 1/2" too short for the furthest plugs. I ran each relay to the fuses on left but you don't have to.
- Main wiring between battery and fuse block. I bought the 6 ga 10 ft. Didn't even use the black.
- Terminal Blocks. Again, you don't have to use these. I wired the fuses and relays to these so that I could just plug whatever switch into the block instead of having to tap wires. Does make it much easier to move things around without having to rewire. Did work good for me because I realized I wired my switches backward (#1 switch is in the #3 spot, #3 switch is in the #1 spot, but oh well).
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Yep, where I got my stuff. I didn't need to add the terminal blocks, but it does make it MUCH easier to add/remove/change things without having to change the wiring.
Here's the link to the stuff I bought:
- Main 50A breaker between battery and fuse block
- Fuse block - watch out, there are some with different relay types. I kept it simple - all relays are the same.
- Relays - I just took the wire straight out of the relay mount and plugged it directly into the fuse block. I might suggest finding ones with longer wires - these 5-1/2" wires were just a 1/2" too short for the furthest plugs. I ran each relay to the fuses on left but you don't have to.
- Main wiring between battery and fuse block. I bought the 6 ga 10 ft. Didn't even use the black.
- Terminal Blocks. Again, you don't have to use these. I wired the fuses and relays to these so that I could just plug whatever switch into the block instead of having to tap wires. Does make it much easier to move things around without having to rewire. Did work good for me because I realized I wired my switches backward (#1 switch is in the #3 spot, #3 switch is in the #1 spot, but oh well).
Sorry, I'm sure I'm missing something, but why would you go this route as opposed to a seemingly simpler Blue Sea fuse block? What are the positives/negatives of this option?
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Nuttin. Looked at the Blue Sea. I went this way because I thought it might be a little cheaper and give me more flexibility. I knew that some things I plan on might be pulling 25-30 amps so I wanted the relays for the heavier loads. The fuse block I got was originally designed to be for someone building their own car, like a hot rod or something.
Edit: And just to be clear: If you're not going to run any single item over 25amp, these Blue Sea blocks (and all their knock offs) are perfectly fine. I plan on getting a compressor and train horns eventually and those are probably above the capability of the blue sea. But if you're just running lights, stereo, seat heaters, etc, you should okay with those fuse blocks. I did help someone do just that on theirs and it worked out great.
