Thanks for the link, but on copper wire, 8 ga wire is only rated at 40a at 140f, higher amperage at higher temps. I'd ideally want 4 ga or 6 ga at a min.
Just my opinion on it
Thanks for the link, but on copper wire, 8 ga wire is only rated at 40a at 140f, higher amperage at higher temps. I'd ideally want 4 ga or 6 ga at a min.
Just my opinion on it
Thanks for the link, but on copper wire, 8 ga wire is only rated at 40a at 140f, higher amperage at higher temps. I'd ideally want 4 ga or 6 ga at a min.
Just my opinion on it
Oh they have 6 ga wire also.....
https://m.delcity.net/store/JC…Holders/p_800448.h_800449
Handles up to 60 amp , just need a 50....this is my go to store for all things electrical, custom buttons & switches
Thats not the biggest issue....I’m sure there is not a big enough wire to handle 60 amps and the existing wire is probably just at or under being big enough to handle 50 amps.
They are admitting the existing fuse block can’t handle the existing load (or a load created by adding extra lights etc.) the correction will not change the wiring harness....it just moves the fuse.
Now I’m thinking the heat source is because the entire J Case is overheating because it’s not adequate enough. the 50 amp fuse doesn’t blow because the back of the J Case melts down. It’s not heat from the battery or exhaust pipe.
You guessed it........it’s A catastrophic failure...
If you added or are planning to add extra lights and other electronics....you better tap directly off the battery and or add a larger additional fused wire (circuit) off the battery to a large auxiliary fuse box.
That’s the reason I added a direct tap from the battery with a 2 gauge wire and a 100 amp circuit breaker under the hood to a hot buss feeding my neutrino and an addition conventional fuse block.
This is my auxiliary circuit set up
My 2 gauge wire comes in right here into the 100 amp circuit breaker.
¥. Circled is my always hot 60 amp fuse block.
You can see my hot buss (red) and ground buss (black)
My 60 amp neutrino is in the clear plastic waterproof box.
I came up with a really heavy duty fix it only costs $1000
Take out the passenger seat and mount this.
You can take it off the grid.
I just had a call from Polaris. They told me to call the dealer that did the work and have them resubmit the paperwork so they can look at the case and see if I should get reimbursed
One of the biggest projects I did to my house when I bought it was to upgrade the electrical panel. It only had 8 circuits. The new panel now has 34 plus a few sub panels.... I broke up the existing circuits. I put each refrigerator on it’s own circuit. The dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwaves, furnace, washer and dryer, kitchen counter, bathrooms, driveway, garage, tool room, each bedroom, indoor fish pond, outdoor fish ponds, shed, pavilion, deck have their own circuits.
Knowing now there is an inherent problem with our slingshots adding anything electrical without adding extra fuse boxes with separate power feeds is asking for trouble...the chassis circuit needs to be broken up.....if not that, then the load taken off it with added circuits....
We do have an open key on....10 amp circuit....the fog light circuit.
Don’t be this guy...
Run any extras to from batt to another fuse block. Called dealer, they will replace the 50a fuse block and if any damage they don't know yet what to do. Parts will be i next week.
I just talked to my service guy and he does not even have the parts to do this recall. He is taking care of some of the stuff on Sling II at this time, we are up to $600 so far this morning.
Well, this looks like a good excuse for a lil cross country ride to the dealer, (200 miles.) I'll be giving them a call tomorrow to get specifics. The only issue is weather this time of year.
Bill
I just got off the phone with the dealer and they will be letting me know when parts arrive.
Bill
They must have some new wiring that plugs into where the 50 amp Amp Fuse is and move the fuse away from the heat source would be my guess. I just chalk this up to my rear wheel spoke breaking the other day. Could be these lovely roads in Maine full of potholes. So I bought new Wheels all the way around 19 on front 20 on rear 305 30zr20. On second thought that would be kind of stupid because the 50 amp fuse isn't blowing and that's the problem
If the 50 amp fuse is getting too hot ....then the two 40 amp fuses should be getting just as hot....doesn’t make sense.....it’s hot from being overloaded...PERIOD....
The question becomes how can the thing get so hot from being overloaded without blowing the fuse.....
The replacement fuse (blade type) is a totally different type of fuse.....I think that’s the problem....the 50 amp (square) fuse for some reason isn’t blowing in time to keep the J Case from having a melt down.
The fix just eliminates the 50 amp square fuse with the 50 amp blade type fuse. It’s not being moved away from any heat source.
That said, you still can’t keep adding stuff to that circuit after the fix. The wire can’t take it...
My prediction is the next generation of wiring harnesses will eliminate the J Case and the square fuses.....unless they make the chassis wiring heavier....
They are basically hoping that this fix being the quickest fix without replacing the whole wire harness, will be able to work like it should by popping the FUSE b4 any damage occurs......so now if this wire gets hot it will either work like it should or burn right thru to the stud it's ring is going to be attached too........smdh
I would rather have this instead https://www.amazon.com/STETION…ersive-view_1571959209621
And being that the rear section where the battery is gets wet, dust, dirt etc....I'm not comfortable with a CRIMP & HEAT SHIELD.....I'm more comfortable with SOLDER & HEAT SHIELD.....I don't like or use crimps on anything I own or worked on !
I would rather have this instead https://www.amazon.com/STETION…ersive-view_1571959209621
get one and install it - take lots of pictures so others can do the same
I would rather have this instead https://www.amazon.com/STETION…ersive-view_1571959209621
I have a few of these in different amp sizes, they work great ....I use em for certain jobs in cars but I'm going to use a the maxi fuse amp and carry a few along with my other spare fuses....
Or this one....
get one and install it - take lots of pictures so others can do the same
I would like to see the instructions for the Polaris fix....to see exactly where and how they are installing the fix....
So what Polaris is doing is just eliminating the 50 amp fuse and replacing it with a blade fuse.
That must be what caused all the other J Case meltdowns....
The 40 amp circuits are ok for now......but nobody is really adding to the other 2 circuits like we are the 59 amp chassis circuit.
Or this one....
They all serve the same purpose and do the same thing , as long as they work like theyre supposed to
Take the wire off both sides of the 50 amp J Case connection and add in the (blue) circuit breaker with addition same gauge wire (yellow)
That’s why they have one end of the fix with an eyelet (must be screwed on at the right side of the J Case and the other end crimps on the left side of the J Case.
I’ll have to make a stainless steel mounting plate for the new circuit breaker....
I think I would want to solder both sides together instead of crimping....
Display MoreI would like to see the instructions for the Polaris fix....to see exactly where and how they are installing the fix....
So what Polaris is doing is just eliminating the 50 amp fuse and replacing it with a blade fuse.
That must be what caused all the other J Case meltdowns....
The 40 amp circuits are ok for now......but nobody is really adding to the other 2 circuits like we are the 59 amp chassis circuit.
post #48 on this thread , click on it and open the thread and link , shows you the whole fix , from beginning to end , less than an HR of work..