My new coil overs are on the way and I want to be sure I have everything in need to install them when they arrive. Can someone here tell me what size socked I should use for the top bolt on the rear coil over and do I need a long socket for this or can I use a regular socket on a short extension to get it through the hole in the storage compartment?
Thanks 
I believe it takes a 15 mm. Not by my SS right now. You will need an extension for the top bolt through the storage compartment. Might be easier if you loosen up the back panel so you can see in but not necessary. Top bolt is a challenge but it’s an easy job.
Use a short extension and just put a single wrap of tape to hold the bolt in the socket so you don't drop it but not too much that it won't easily be able to get the socket off when you tighten it up.
We loosened up the back panel and disconnected it from all but the topmost fasteners, so I could reach up in there with my arm. However, I watched Bill Hahn change the back QA1 on a Sling by utilizing only that hole in the top of the passenger storage compartment, with an extension. Took him like, 3 min.
We loosened up the back panel and disconnected it from all but the topmost fasteners, so I could reach up in there with my arm. However, I watched Bill Hahn change the back QA1 on a Sling by utilizing only that hole in the top of the passenger storage compartment, with an extension. Took him like, 3 min.
I have seen it in video done both ways and yes people like Bill make it look very easy, but I do wonder if thats because they have had so much practice - - I'm thinking it might just be easier to do it like you did - - Not really worried about it though, I know that one way or the other I will figure it out 
As long as you have a helper they can hold the coilover and with a flashlight look up through the hole and align the top while you put the bolt in through the storage compartment hole. Not difficult at all and certainly saves removing the back plastic
you can also put some tape over the head of the nut or bolt then force it into the socket so it is tight
makes it very easy and when you pull off the socket the tape comes with it
Practice once or twice outside the sling - old trick works great
you can also put some tape over the head of the nut or bolt then force it into the socket so it is tight
makes it very easy and when you pull off the socket the tape comes with it
Practice once or twice outside the sling - old trick works great
this might be a good idea with a deep socket, but with a regular socket on a 3 inch extension I would be afraid the socket might come off the extension and fall down inside.
At this point I think I will jack up the back and support it on two jack stands. This will free up my floor jack and allow me to use it under the rear tire to lift it or lower it as needed to take the pressure off the coil over. I will then remove the bottom bolt and swing the shock down and at that point I can decide if I feel comfortable doing the top without removing the back. If I can get my hand in there and reach things then it will be a go, if not I can remove the 4 t25 torx and the bottom push pin and go in that way
this might be a good idea with a deep socket, but with a regular socket on a 3 inch extension I would be afraid the socket might come off the extension and fall down inside.
At this point I think I will jack up the back and support it on two jack stands. This will free up my floor jack and allow me to use it under the rear tire to lift it or lower it as needed to take the pressure off the coil over. I will then remove the bottom bolt and swing the shock down and at that point I can decide if I feel comfortable doing the top without removing the back. If I can get my hand in there and reach things then it will be a go, if not I can remove the 4 t25 torx and the bottom push pin and go in that way
It works just fine - I have done a few that way - if you are concerned wrap some tape around the socket and extension as well.
When I was installing mine I dropped the bolt twice and it just fell out the bottom. No big deal. Remember that the nut is welded on, on the upper mount, you don't need a holdback wrench.
As long as you have a helper they can hold the coilover and with a flashlight look up through the hole and align the top while you put the bolt in through the storage compartment hole. Not difficult at all and certainly saves removing the back plastic
That's what I did. Easy peasy! And you don't need to use jackstands, just use your floor jack to raise the Sling itself from the corner lift point until the shock is unweighted. You can pull the nut from the lower mount and when you reach that point, the bolt will easily pull out by hand, then do the top one.
