Bringing this thread back to life. Need to fix this issue on my new Slingshot.
It only happens when applying the brakes with medium to hard pressure. Start at up and stomp on the brakes and it will light up immediately. Drive 300 miles back from CA with very light brake pressure and no light ever came on.
A birdie told me that sucking all of the fluid out and cleaning the sensors and re-installing them might be a nice little fix to try.
Will report back with curse words or a solution...
Catastrophic brake failure issue
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Not doing new sensors or washers at the point. Also, I wont bleed unless I have to.
Time to figure out a DIY for those out of warranty.
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LOL! Easter eggs show up in the funniest places sometimes!
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Could be a sensor.... but, I vote bleed brakes. Check brake system for leakage then bleed. Trigger is a sudden imbalance in brake pressure between front and rear, most likely caused by air.... light braking will not trigger.
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Lookslike it’s my turn now.
The BrakeFailure Light just started coming on when driving and cruise control won’twork (no error codes seen on the dash). Brake reservoir is full, so that’snot the issue. Light goes away after restarting. Sounds like the classic symptoms of the brakesensor(s) going bad.Coming up on my 10K mile service, and also only have about40 days left on my factory 2 year warranty period. Guess its betterthat it started acting up now vs after the warranty has expired.
I was considering asking how much the dealer would charge tojust replace the brake fluid if I did all the other required 10K service items(oil change and various inspections. Still wondering how to"lubricate as directed" the control cables, but that’s another story).
NowI’m going request them to replace the brake pressure switches (both) and seals while it’sstill under warranty, and also ask for the fluid to be replaced at the sametime.
SideNote: At ~ 6.5K miles when I had the other warranty issues fixed (swing armreplace, fuel line replace, steering bolt fix, brake bleeding, ECU flash update)The dealer had told me per my VIN, I did Notneed the brake Stat-O-Seal replacement (T-16-02). After they did the brake bleed using the newprocedure, I had hard brakes (Yes! Nodouble pumping needed
). However, overthe last few thousand miles, I’ve noticed the brakes getting continuouslysofter, to the point they again need double pump for hard stops. Seems like more evidence the Stat-O-Sealreplacement work needs to be done! -
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From the NHTSA Safety Recall Report (see attached files for full details) Brake Pressure Switch / Brake Line Banjo joints (can be) over torqued, resulting with the steel portion of the Stat-O-Seal yielding. (Two Stat-O-Seals are used on each Banjo Joint.)
This is covered under the Polaris Technical Service Bulletin: T-16-02
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From the NHTSA Safety Recall Report (see attached files for full details) Brake Pressure Switch / Brake Line Banjo joints (can be) over torqued, resulting with the steel portion of the Stat-O-Seal yielding. (Two Stat-O-Seals are used on each Banjo Joint.)
This is covered under the Polaris Technical Service Bulletin: T-16-02
Polaris addressed that with a recall. Mine was done when they replaced the swing arm.
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Rob, glad yours was fixed, your VIN may have been in the range designated by the Polaris to be affected, so yours was fixed when your swing arm was replaced. In my case, I requested the work (covered in T-16-02: replace Stat-O-Seals) to also be done, but the service department refused, saying because my VIN was outside the "affected range", it was not required, they only did the new Brake Bleed procedure.
Now I am getting the Brake Failure Light (and soft brakes again). Is it due to defective Brake Pressure Switch(es), or is it possibly related to over-tightening of the Stat-O-Seals during the initial factory installation? Who knows? (I don't see an obvious leak, but that doesn't mean air might not be making its way into the system)
Either way, to fix the Brake Failure Light issue, I am requesting they replace the 2 Brake pressure switches (under warranty) so new seals will be required during the switch installation. Hopefully they will be installed correctly (not potentially "crushed")
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Rob, glad yours was fixed, your VIN may have been in the range designated by the Polaris to be affected, so yours was fixed when your swing arm was replaced. In my case, I requested the work (covered in T-16-02: replace Stat-O-Seals) to also be done, but the service department refused, saying because my VIN was outside the "affected range", it was not required, they only did the new Brake Bleed procedure.
Now I am getting the Brake Failure Light (and soft brakes again). Is it due to defective Brake Pressure Switch(es), or is it possibly related to over-tightening of the Stat-O-Seals during the initial factory installation? Who knows? (I don't see an obvious leak, but that doesn't mean air might not be making its way into the system)
Either way, to fix the Brake Failure Light issue, I am requesting they replace the 2 Brake pressure switches (under warranty) so new seals will be required during the switch installation. Hopefully they will be installed correctly (not potentially "crushed")
What year bike?
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Rob, glad yours was fixed, your VIN may have been in the range designated by the Polaris to be affected, so yours was fixed when your swing arm was replaced. In my case, I requested the work (covered in T-16-02: replace Stat-O-Seals) to also be done, but the service department refused, saying because my VIN was outside the "affected range", it was not required, they only did the new Brake Bleed procedure.
Now I am getting the Brake Failure Light (and soft brakes again). Is it due to defective Brake Pressure Switch(es), or is it possibly related to over-tightening of the Stat-O-Seals during the initial factory installation? Who knows? (I don't see an obvious leak, but that doesn't mean air might not be making its way into the system)
Either way, to fix the Brake Failure Light issue, I am requesting they replace the 2 Brake pressure switches (under warranty) so new seals will be required during the switch installation. Hopefully they will be installed correctly (not potentially "crushed")
My Brake Failure Light is coming on too. I called the service department and they want to keep it so they can run tests on it. I told them I would bring it in during the colder months. The only inconvenience is the lack of cruise control as the brakes work fine.
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Talked to my dealer about my brake failure light issue. He said he has replace quite a few sensors and will get mine on order, no problem getting anything fixed at T&T Power sports.
I also told him my engine light comes on a lot, code Knock sensor open, said he would look into it also. -
Talked to my dealer about my brake failure light issue. He said he has replace quite a few sensors and will get mine on order, no problem getting anything fixed at T&T Power sports.
I also told him my engine light comes on a lot, code Knock sensor open, said he would look into it also.I WONDER WHY?
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I WONDER WHY?
Wonder why what?
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Talked to my dealer about my brake failure light issue. He said he has replace quite a few sensors and will get mine on order, no problem getting anything fixed at T&T Power sports.
I also told him my engine light comes on a lot, code Knock sensor open, said he would look into it also.I WONDER WHY? You would have to replace the tire.
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Just bought a new Tire, Went with Michelin this round, see how long it last. I drive a lot of highway miles under 100 mph, These Sumutros <----SP only good for 10,000 miles. but they only cost 150.00 The Michelin was 450.00 OUCH.
