Sold my 2000 Valkyrie a few years before getting Slingshot SL. Had lots of fun adding chrome bits, and the mod bug has stayed with me and the Slingshot (The Valk was red & black, just the same way I like my Slingshot) Last pic is the Valk in the back of a moving van on its way to its new owner in Texas (sad day) check out the licence plate frame my wife had made for me
These vents will only provide relief (air flow) when the SS is in motion. I wonder if anyone has has tried adding a small fan inside the ducting (12V - marine grade)
Of course its a red one, they're the best (but I'm biased, all my fast toys have been red)
Thanks Everyone for the Birthday wishes !
ok... did i do something wrong here or is this normal? I installed the assault hub adapter and a new NRG steering wheel.
Is the machining of the assault hub off? I feel like this should fit flush.
Here is what it looks like and i feel like it is wrong
I have the same Assault hub for my steering wheel & I also think the gap looks awful. My solution was a carefully trimmed rubber roof-pipe vent cap. The rubber is conical in shape, and trimming all the way around at the right spot (razor blade or sharp scissors) keeps the cut edge hidden under the lip of the plastic covering the steering wheel shaft.
These can be found at various hardware stores. Found mine at Home Depot for under $5
Installation tip: Heat up with a hot air gun to soften the rubber. It helps when stretching it over the hub.
can you say "photo-shopped"?
ITZQUIK When the noise starts again would you mind doing an experiment? Try rubbing the soap on one surface then ride a bit. If the noise stops you'll know which surface is rubbing. If it doesn't, try another surface. I'm curious which one is causing the squeal.
Funny but you read my mind. I was planning to try this when the noise starts again (been quiet so far). I would have tried this initially, but I was too lazy to put the jack under the rear end potentially 3 times ...
Re-posting of my previous reply:
OK, I'll share my experience and whats working for our 2016 SS SL
After ~2+ years/~15K miles of quiet riding, we also started hearing the horrendous shrieking/whistle noise from the drive belt. But only during acceleration/loading the belt.
(1) I did a very thorough belt cleaning with a wire brush and a strong de-greaser. Noise stopped initially, but started coming back within ~5 miles of riding (ordinary street driving, not in "dirty" conditions)
(2) I had the belt tension and alignment re-set by my Polaris service dept. but this did not solve the problem (had the proper gap on the left side of the belt, and tension was set towards the loose side of the spec, ~.75") The dealer was unsure what to do next, basically said to "... just live with it. Slingshots make all kinds of funny noises". I also saw in a related post someone mentioned their right angle drive was "adjusted" by the their dealer and that fixed the noise. My dealer confirmed their is no adjustment to be made to "re-align" the right angle drive, it can only be adjusted for the belt tension, and the pivot shaft adjusted for belt alignment.
(3) During a recent 500+ mile drive-day, I experienced temperatures ranging from Low 40's (Tioga pass/Yosemite) and up to 98 degrees (Death Valley), and the noise was just the same whatever the temperature.
So short of buying a new belt just to see what that might sound like, I started thinking of trying an application of some "substance" to the belt to see if that would help (Like the ideas of the "lubricant" or graphite).
Then a thought occurred to me that some of the older "shade tree" mechanics might recognize. Back in the day, what was a temporary quick-fix for a noisy-squealing fan belt? ..... Holding a bar of soap against the contact surface of the fan belt while the engine was idling.
So... I jacked up the back end of the SS so the wheel could turn freely, and I liberally rubbed a bar of soap (Ivory) against the 3 sides of the belt while turning the wheel by hand ( on the two side edges and the belt's teeth).
Son of a gun if the belt didn't quiet right up! And several hundred miles later it still was running quiet. I know this is not a permanent fix, but when the noise starts up again I'll just repeat the soap rub. (Although I do wonder if I'm caught in the rain if I'll be leaving a trail of soap bubbles behind me ? )
Update: I used a white bar of soap at first because it was handy, and just to try out the idea. It does leave some unsightly white residue on the black belt, but I was willing to accept the residue just to kill the noise. My better solution: my wife found a Black colored bar of soap that seems to work just as well, but doesn't show up against the belt so much.
Good luck if you try it out on your ride. This works for me, but as the saying goes, "your mileage may vary ..."
The canister is CA specific. It is a charcoal canister to filter any gas tank fumes from polluting the air
My SS started doing the very same thing a while back. The "miles to go" is in single digits, etc.
It happened shortly after I returned from Canada, after I had changed the display units back from Metric to US. Didn't happen immediately, so there may not have been a correlation.
Two different dealers I've asked about this have no clue, never heard of this before. I didn't push the point, choosing to keep driving and see if it recovered on its own. (It hasn't). When I go in for the back-up camera fix, I'm going to push the issue and demand they open a claim with Polaris on this issue (I have the Polaris extended warranty on my 2016 SL)
Oh and Bigdog, nice story but unhooking the battery does not fix this issue (at least not on mine, after the two different times I had the battery cables disconnected)
Hey SoCal, sharp eyes!
The "upper console" is my home-made Radio Visor, and also holds push-buttons & a large LED light. Some may recognize this as a "re-purposed" SS OEM rear license plate bracket that many of us have removed & discarded. I liked the angles in the plastic, and with some careful cutting and mounting bracket fabrication it makes a good shade-visor for the audio screen. (the dip in the center is also a handy place to hold loose change at the drive-thru )
The Red LED in the center Flashes with my alarm on, and the two black push-buttons are for my: voltage/water temp gauge reset, and another lighting idea I'll be adding later.
Below the starter is a small module (Type-S) with blue LEDs that oscillate back and forth (Like Knight Rider). I have a Lot of Red LED lighting in the cockpit interior, but sometimes when the mood strikes me I'll switch over to my Blue interior LEDs and this becomes active. The module is on a pivot so I can swing it down and out of the way when not in use.
Bonus comment: You can see my HURST T-Handle; I have always liked the feel of these on a manual shift. I know some other members have installed a T-Handle, but I've not seen one with the Thumb Push-button on the end. I've wired this up to my air horns, so I can honk anytime without letting go of the shift handle or the steering wheel. I think this is a good safety feature, and it's easy to do a quick beep-beep with my thumb when someone waves at the SS.
And an Extra Bonus Comment: Do you see the small Red Push-button on the Center Console, passenger side? Since I was adding the wiring for the T-Handle anyway, I decided to also add this push-button in parallel to the same horn wiring. The wife can now honk our horn whenever she wants while I concentrate on the driving. Fun for all !
Here's another option for monitoring the battery voltage. I installed a dual use gauge: 1st 30 seconds after "key-on" it shows battery voltage. After that is shows water temperature. (I also installed a momentary-off push-button to interrupt power to the gauge, so it resets to show voltage anytime I want to see it) Also like that it has the same blue & red colors as the dashboard
All, thanks for the positive comments on my Deflectors write up. Hope someone is inspired to make their own style. Can be as simple (no LEDs) or as complicated as you want to tackle (~LEDs - running lights, turn signals, back-lighting, etc)
MACWAS: I haven't posted a DIY thread before, I'll look into it, thanks for the suggestion
ThomaSS: Yes I did make a custom rear fender (out of two joined plastic trailer fenders, with LED lights, chrome bits, and a mud-flap with a LED American Flag). Unfortunately two of the AL support struts cracked during my ~2500 mile trip to Canada. Fortunately I was closely monitoring it during the trip and removed it before it decided to remove itself during the ride! I will be strengthening the struts and re-installing my version 2.0 soon and will post photos. I've attached a photo below of version 1.0 from before my trip
Bigdog: Nemeiss1701 is right. I used a relay to put a minimal draw on the SS brake circuit. The relay is triggered "on" by the SS brake lights, and the added Accessory Brake Lights take their +12V through the relay drawing off of an Auxiliary fuse box. You can add as many brake lights as the Amperage of the fuse you choose will support (I think I have a diagram I made awhile back, I'll look for it. Cant remember what color SS wire I tapped to trigger the relay on/off)
SoCal saw my rear deflector mod and license plate relocation in another thread and asked for more details, so here goes... (Hope you all don’t mind the lengthy details)
First; my thanks to Roadog for posting his deflectors and starting me to thinking. I always wanted more color & lights in the SS’s back end, and if the mod could also reduce dust on the rear wheel then even better. My usual philosophy with mods is “Bigger is Better”, and if I’m going to drill a hole in the SS, I always look for a way to add LEDs while I’m at it.
My Deflectors: I designed these long enough to start just below the tail lights, and extend down as far as possible without blocking access to the lower covers (I.E. battery) or rear center panel. After looking at a lot of material choices, I found a plastic waste receptacle (at Big Lots) that was the perfect size, thickness (approximately 3/32”) and had the exact curve in it I needed for the deflectors. Following a mock-up template in cardboard, I cut out the plastic to shape. The “SS” cutouts were done by hand with an exacto-knife to allow the LED back-lighting to show through at night.
Each deflector is mounted to the back of the SS tub with 5 stand-offs and is quite solid (mounted @ 4 corners and center). The stand-offs are hexagonal threaded rod connectors, 1” long, ¼”-20 thread. Using these as stand-offs allowed easy mounting: ¼” bolts inside the tubs and a lighted “Bullet” on the deflector side.
Note: the lighted Bullets came with small “bulbs” inside, but I replaced these with single LEDs for durability & lower power consumption. The four corner Bullets LEDs are RED & wired as running lights (always on) and the center Bullet is Amber, wired to the Left/Right turn signals.
The Bullets LED wiring is hidden inside the stand-offs, all join up on the backside of the deflector, and two wires go through a top corner stand-off to the inside of the tubs. (This one stand-off had the inside tub bolt drilled out to allow the 2 wires to pass through to the inside of the tub. One wire for +12V Running, and one wire for +12V Turn. Ground wires are connected to the stand-off, and ground wire connection is picked up inside the tub at the mounting bolt).
The lighted Bullets were originally chrome, but I painted mine Red along with the deflectors (Rattle can: “Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Paint & Primer”: Gloss Apple Red. The Stand-offs are painted Gloss Black). On the backside of the defectors, running up and down the center (and hidden from direct sight) is a Red LED strip. This is also wired as a running light, and provides a nice Red back-lit glow at night, and shines through the “SS” cut outs.
My License plate relocation: I mounted my plate to small metal “Box” (a pistol lock-box), added two RED Led bars to the sides (running lights), two RED led reflectors below the plate (running & brake lights), and four bright white projection LEDs as the mounting bolts on the plate (wired to back-up lights).
This “Box” was then cut-into and attached to the rear center panel. I cut two “slots” in the center-top of the panel, (creating a tab the width of the box). Folded this “tab” inward and attached two brackets to hold the position such that the attached Box & License plate was now roughly perpendicular to the ground (I left a very slight downward angle so the white LED back-up lights are aimed at the right angle). There is plenty of clearance between the rear tire and the License plate box.
A Few Other Mods on the back-end:
· Center Panel: Two Red Plastic LED vertical bars (trailer lights) used as running/brake lights
· On Center panel: Two Red LED “Arrows” (wired to L/R turn signals)
· The Red round plastic grill on underside of deck cover panel is an Audible Back-up Alarm (loud “beep-beep”) wired to back-up lights (with a manual cut-off switch for the driver when I don’t want to piss-off the neighbors)
· OEM License plate light module is re-positioned on underside of deck cover panel, in front of License plate
· LED projection ground illumination light (shines a red adjustable pattern on the ground behind the tire)
Thanks for the reply and interest in my mods. To avoid derailing this thread (SS photo in front of a sign ...) I will search for some pics and post in the thread: "What was today's Sling Project, Mods, Goodies ...?"
While I'm working on that, here is a teaser photo showing another view of the back end, which also includes the fender I made (version 1.0) for the SS.
ITZQUIK, with the rear elevated, can you see or feel anything out of the ordinary? Is the wheel tight, drags, or anything that would indicate an issue?
With the back end off the ground, all looks and feels normal. wheel spins freely, have a small gap between belt and left side of rear sprocket as recommended (photo). When not off the ground, belt tension has a deflection of ~ .75"
Note: when the swing arm was replaced during the recall, (several thousand miles ago, at a dealer I no longer go to for service) the dealer also put on a new rear sprocket, telling me "it needed replacing". When I asked why, I could not get a straight answer from them. When I requested (in advance) they save & show me the sprocket they were removing, they agreed. But when I arrived to pick up my SS, mysteriously they could not locate the "bad" sprocket. I think they probably damaged it when doing the swing arm replacement and wouldn't admit it.
In any event, nothing to do with the belt noise issue, I only mention this because its a new rear sprocket, so a "warped" or bent sprocket should not be a contributing factor to the belt noise. (I'm pretty sure they really did put on a new sprocket, since the planned overnight swing arm replacement job turned into a 10 day job, while they waited for the new sprocket they ordered from Polaris to show up!)